Gasoline evaporates quickly (even moreso with heat).

 

Yeahbut, there's been an ongoing discussion re that over on the 2015+ forum. Seems the EB's are bad about diluting the oil with gas, especially ones that are lightly used. (Mine shouldn't have a problem. ) Several, including the mod, Tom, was saying what you are saying, that the gas would evaporate if you get the engine hot. But, one guy pointed out that the gas in 2-stroke fuel doesn't seem to evaporate, and everyone took a step back and then agreed.

I'm thinking I'm not liable to get all of the gas out tomorrow, especially since I can't warm the engine up before I drain it. And, there's a huge oil cooler and I'm thinking some is going to reside in there. So, why not run a batch of the Conoco oil through to pick up the gas, and then dump that and go back to the Brad Penn. (Yes, we can debate the need for oils like Brad Penn, but since I have it then why not?)

 

Are you going to run the engine on the oil you are talking about using?
The conoco?

 

I might be missing something, but I don't see how a little gas in a 4 strokes oil compares to a little oil in a 2 strokes gas. The oil in a 4 stroke crankcase stays there for something like 3000 miles. As it sits there, hot, gas will evaporate out of it. Maybe not before doing damage if there's too much of it, but hot gas will evaporate.

On the other hand a 2 stroke pumps lots of vaporized gas through the crankcase in hopes that some of the oil that's mixed with it will stay liquid and find it's way to the moving parts. Meanwhile, after a half revolution of the engine, the vaporized gas and air get pumped into the cylinders.

So I strongly question the "fact" that gas doesn't evaporate out of 2 stroke oil. And even if it doesn't, it's not staying in the hot crankcase for more than a fraction of a second which hardly compares to 3000 miles.

 

Kyle - I will probably run the engine on the Conoco oil. As discussed in the video you sent, once a flat-tapped cam is broken in there's no need to continue with high ZDDP concentrations in the oil.

Here's the video Kyle shared with me on that subject: .

Bob - What you said makes perfect sense. But Im just wanting to get all the gas out ASAP, so am thinking of changing oil now and again in a couple hundred miles.

 

So the engine is broken in?
I wasn't sure. Should be fine if so.

 

I'll check the miles, but I'm pretty sure it is. I have Vernon's log book and he has put some miles on it.

 

Bearings are not ferrous metal.
If there's steel or iron in the oil other than ring/cylinder break in, you have bigger problems.

​​​​​​​If the engine *is* broken in there's no need to continue the use of a break-in oil.
And I don't believe the Edelbrock Performer kit has steep ramps, solid lifters or crazy spring pressure.

BUT there's no Cat to poison with the phosphorus and the truck is a bit of an unknown.
There's no reason *not* to use a high ZDDP oil.

Set the fuel pump up so it only runs when the engine is turning.
Throw those plugs away. I've never had any luck with plugs after they are saturated.
​​​​​​​I have gone to NGK UR4's (6630) after quality control issues with Autolite and Motorcraft plugs.

 

Vernon's log book shows 1605 miles on the truck from when the new engine was installed to the last entry in June. I'd say it is broken in. But, as you point out, Jim, there's no reason not to use the Brad Penn oil.

As for the cam, everything I read says it is very mild. In fact, several on the big block forum suggested other cams with more lift and/or duration, meaning steeper slopes. But Vernon wanted the whole package, other than heads, and persevered.

Speaking of heads, I didn't find the info on the heads. I can look again today as I'm changing oil, plugs, etc. But if there are pics that might help.

And, good point about the plugs. I'll put some new ones in.

 

Here it is from the RHP (Scott's) site.



Some very late heads have it on the intake side (under the intake manifold) but i think this is only the carbureted E8 heads used in RV's and agricultural engines.

 

My E6's have the engineering number on the intake side under the manifold.

 

Okay, so if not visible they are likely E6TE heads.

 

Thanks, Jim. I was looking between the exhaust ports. Will look in a bit.

 

And, thanks for the last bit. But, being an '85 it shouldn't have E6's. And Vernon's notes show he had a set of D3VE's, so the code should be visible.

Edit: oops! Another note says he has E6TE-DA's. I will look.

 

Mid-day update:

• No numbers on top of heads by the valve covers, so I'm assuming they are E6's.
• Pulled the drain plug and was pleasantly surprised that initially oil came out, so the gas hadn't fully mixed with the oil, meaning the engine hadn't run long with gas in it.
• Pulled the oil filter and only oil came out, and it didn't smell like gas. Further proof that the engine didn't run long enough to get the gas circulated or mixed with the oil.
• Got a total of 3.1 gallons of "stuff" drained out, not including what spilled, is on me, and is stuck to the insides of the containers. So, we had over 6 quarts of gas on top of 6 quarts of oil.

The plan is to put the plug in, a new Royal Purple oil filter (supplied by Vernon) on, and pour in 6 qts of the Brad Penn oil. Then I'll pull the dizzy and pressurize the system. After that I'll squirt oil into the cylinders and turn the engine over with the starter. Then plugs and the pressure regulator and it'll be time to start it.