What bellhousing for a 3.03 behind a 302?
#1
#2
Not sure how the 223 bell mates up to the 3.03 (thinking this is the 3 speed Toploader ?) Or is it the older Toploader bell pattern with the rectangular pattern with one bolt offset from the others ? If so then you'll need the older original Toploader bell that has a 6 bolt bell pattern, and not the early 5 bolt bell pattern. In any case, you're in for a ride trying to use the 3.03 behind the 347. Might do better updating the transmission first off instead of doing this. Might save you money and headaches in the long run.
#3
IMO FWIW move over to a 5 speed with the 347. The 303 was a great 3 speed. Was.
But, to use it behind the '65 1/2 and up SBF you need to see if the transmission pattern is square (won't work) or rectangular as mentioned above. If rectangular, any 6 bolt SBF stick bell should work. Check input shaft length and your current bell depth.
But, to use it behind the '65 1/2 and up SBF you need to see if the transmission pattern is square (won't work) or rectangular as mentioned above. If rectangular, any 6 bolt SBF stick bell should work. Check input shaft length and your current bell depth.
#4
#5
I'm with you on this. Back in the 80's I bought a 67 big block Stang with a GT390 and a 3 speed Toploader. Even with the 3.00 geared 9 inch it was no slouch. Raced a late 60's Camaro one night that had a built 350 backed by a 4 speed and 4.11's. That ole 390 plain out pulled it the 1/4. Didn't blow his doors off but gradually out muscled him even with the 3 speed. With a torque motor, it's not as much a handicap as one would think. As for the automatics, you have to remember the torque converter acts as a gear splitter, or really like an infinite ratio gear set. Spinning tires with a 3 speed In first gear does the same thing.
#6
#7
I'm with you on this. Back in the 80's I bought a 67 big block Stang with a GT390 and a 3 speed Toploader. Even with the 3.00 geared 9 inch it was no slouch. Raced a late 60's Camaro one night that had a built 350 backed by a 4 speed and 4.11's. That ole 390 plain out pulled it the 1/4. Didn't blow his doors off but gradually out muscled him even with the 3 speed. With a torque motor, it's not as much a handicap as one would think. As for the automatics, you have to remember the torque converter acts as a gear splitter, or really like an infinite ratio gear set. Spinning tires with a 3 speed In first gear does the same thing.
Sorry about that, its a narrow pattern unfortunately. I do have a line on another 3.03 with the wide pattern and matching bell housing.
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#8
Make sure the input shaft length matches the bellhousing depth. The bells cast in the late 70's to present are deeper to match the longer input shafts used after then. The only earlier combo to watch were mating a 390 specific 4 speed Toploader to a small block bell, the pilot bearing snout was shorter by 5/8" inch than the small block units. Learned this the hard way with that 390 Stang. These transmissions were mated to a slightly shorter bell in the Stangs and Fairlanes. If you're in doubt, bolt the bell and block plate to the engine without the clutch and pressure plate, then stab the transmission in and using a flash light, look thru the clutch fork opening to verify the input shaft reaches into the pilot bearing/bushing. If it's not, your input bearing and shaft will have a very short lifespan.
#9
The six bolt, small block compatible C9TA or D1TA cast iron bellhousings can be drilled to fit the narrow bolt pattern transmissions.
This is because they have bosses cast into them that would accommodate the narrow pattern, although I don't believe they ever were drilled from the factory.
Here's a couple pictures from the MustangTek site:
As I recall, these ones are 5/8" different in depth from the aluminum car bellhousings, but I don't recall which way.
However, considering the relative scarcity of the narrow pattern 3.03 transmission, it should be easy to trade yours for a later wide pattern.
I can also vouch for the strength of the transmission. I used to have one behind a 351 in a Fairlane, and it didn't break. Internally, it looked pretty robust.
This is because they have bosses cast into them that would accommodate the narrow pattern, although I don't believe they ever were drilled from the factory.
Here's a couple pictures from the MustangTek site:
As I recall, these ones are 5/8" different in depth from the aluminum car bellhousings, but I don't recall which way.
However, considering the relative scarcity of the narrow pattern 3.03 transmission, it should be easy to trade yours for a later wide pattern.
I can also vouch for the strength of the transmission. I used to have one behind a 351 in a Fairlane, and it didn't break. Internally, it looked pretty robust.
#10
The six bolt, small block compatible C9TA or D1TA cast iron bellhousings can be drilled to fit the narrow bolt pattern transmissions.
This is because they have bosses cast into them that would accommodate the narrow pattern, although I don't believe they ever were drilled from the factory.
Here's a couple pictures from the MustangTek site:
As I recall, these ones are 5/8" different in depth from the aluminum car bellhousings, but I don't recall which way.
However, considering the relative scarcity of the narrow pattern 3.03 transmission, it should be easy to trade yours for a later wide pattern.
I can also vouch for the strength of the transmission. I used to have one behind a 351 in a Fairlane, and it didn't break. Internally, it looked pretty robust.
This is because they have bosses cast into them that would accommodate the narrow pattern, although I don't believe they ever were drilled from the factory.
Here's a couple pictures from the MustangTek site:
As I recall, these ones are 5/8" different in depth from the aluminum car bellhousings, but I don't recall which way.
However, considering the relative scarcity of the narrow pattern 3.03 transmission, it should be easy to trade yours for a later wide pattern.
I can also vouch for the strength of the transmission. I used to have one behind a 351 in a Fairlane, and it didn't break. Internally, it looked pretty robust.
#12
You can swap the tail housing for a car then fab a cross member that sits up inside the frame rails out of steel channel. Pretty easy to do. The small block bells are all the same depth, up til the late 70's when the SROD was introduced with the 1" longer input. Only the FE bells were shallower
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