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A person just has not lived until he has heard a big block with a blower singing to you at 7800. but sadly enough it is not a working man's sport anymore due to the amount of money brought in by corporate sponsors and people with a buttload of cash. Do not let these posts discourage you,go to youtube and bring up Studley Studebaker. He was a gentleman that always thought outside of the box and was able to put rigs costing 6 times what his did back on the trailer.
do you have a build thread of your truck?
I would really love to see what a 9 thousand dollar engine looks like.
it must be immaculate.
I hope that's not a 84 6.9 you dropped all that cash into.
I tried looking through the threads you've posted, but all I could find is help for LED's help, with glow plugs, help with radios, and that you have issues starting your truck.
must have been like 5 grand in machining fee's
so im gonna drop my last build on you to show you im not joking.
I have 7k into this engine.
rebuilt 093 ATS with a WWII
new up pipe castings
ceramic coated exhaust
innercooler with custom piping
new Inconel valves
comp 910 valve springs
Harland sharpe roller rockers
smith bros custom pushrods
ARP head studs
105CC pump,
closely matched BB's
aluminum return caps
torque cam
balanced cam gear
ceramic coated pistons
total seal top comp ring
R&D girdle w/ studs
power master starter
powermaster 200A alternator
everything powder coated
the 7.3 Motor I would use is in pieces and I have to finish my 6.9 first ($9100 for full rebuild and banks turbo). But I'm still wanting to put a supercharger on the 7.3 when I build it even if it ends up being mostly for looks, because it's something that I don't think has been done to an IDI before
Holy moly... i dont even have that into mine... PSD rods, new pistons, gapless rings, R&D turbo kit and 110cc pump, studded everything, banks IC, new clutch etc etc. And thats even with having to have 5 headbolts milled out and one plugged.
As far as the supercharger, something like an Eaton M120 with ALOT of overdrive would work, but i recall someone doing the math and figuring that with a stock IDI crank pulley, the SC pulley would be like 7/8", which of course is impossible, but you could run a jackshaft. Would make for some serious bottom end torque, but i think it would hurt your overall efficiency. If i remember the numbers right, that would make 2psi at idle and 18 at 3300, spinning the charger to 12k
I hope that's not a 84 6.9 you dropped all that cash into.
I haven't built it yet. But yes it's a 84 6.9 that it's going into. 3 grand is for the banks turbo. The other 6 grand is for replacing everything and it might be more if I find other parts I need or want.
hell I have 1500 into my turbo, and I didn't even want to pay that.
for 3 grand, I would have adapted a GTP38R.
since your fingers move faster than your brain,
I seriously recommend you do some research.
I haven't built it yet. But yes it's a 84 6.9 that it's going into. 3 grand is for the banks turbo. The other 6 grand is for replacing everything and it might be more if I find other parts I need or want.
If you are buying a new turbo kit... buy one from R&D. Lightyears better kit, and you can get whatever performance level you want out of it.
Otherwise... I paid $500 for my used Banks kit, complete a few years ago.
If you are buying a new turbo kit... buy one from R&D. Lightyears better kit
I looked again and the stage 3 from R&D dropped in price some and is slightly less than the banks. But it will be about the same price since for $100 they will send me the housing for my ATS 088 turbo to make it fit correctly. So I guess I will probably go with that since its intercooled, but is there any simple way to add a wastegate?
I looked again and the stage 3 from R&D dropped in price some and is slightly less than the banks. But it will be about the same price since for $100 they will send me the housing for my ATS 088 turbo to make it fit correctly. So I guess I will probably go with that since its intercooled, but is there any simple way to add a wastegate?
R&D is a small company.
Contact them and ask. Chances are they can probably find you something that'll work for you.
That being said, Ebay offers wastegates that can be welded on, so you can just install one in the up-piping.
Or, have R&D just find you a different turbo with a wastegate to go with your kit.
Heck, if you /really/ need a wastegated turbo, I've got a good running Banks TE06H I took off my truck when I upgraded. I was able to get 12-14 PSI of boost out of it with a stock IP and the wastegate locked out, but you could definitely adjust it to whatever you wanted.
R&D is a small company.
Contact them and ask. Chances are they can probably find you something that'll work for you.
That being said, Ebay offers wastegates that can be welded on, so you can just install one in the up-piping.
Or, have R&D just find you a different turbo with a wastegate to go with your kit.
I'll look around, the only reason I want a wastegate is so I have that extra safety not to break any parts on a freshly rebuilt motor. I have plenty of time since I have to finish the body work and all that stuff before I start saving up for the motor rebuild.
Thing is, if you are going to put /that much/ money into an IDI, you want to go with a 7.3. In fact, find an IDIT block and you'll save some hassle.
The 6.9 is limited by the 7/16 head bolts, and even 7/16 studs(a must) aren't good enough.
The 1/2" bolts in the 7.3 are much stronger, and once you use a set of studs there, that takes care of that problem entirely. No more headgasket problems, no matter what sort of boost you put into it(Justin put 45+ PSI and 450hp/1000ft-lbs of torque into his without the headgaskets blowing).
Then, the limit is the connecting rods. IDIT rods are stronger, or you could go with 7.3 PS forged rods, modded slightly to fit a 7.3.
On any engine you choose, you'll want to put good valve springs and lifters in it, and make sure your valve recession is high enough to prevent valve-piston interaction, especially once you add a R&D stage1 or Typ4 torque cam.
Now, all that being said, one of these days I really want to build a performance 6.9 by upsizing the head bolts to 9/16(and then use bog-standard grade 10 socket head cap screws), but that's going to be a challenge and nobody has successfully done this yet.
Justin tried to drill a 6.9 block for larger bolts, but couldn't keep them straight as he drilled. I expect it's going to require a modded drillbit and building a drill bushing fixture to hold everything square.
01-07-2017, 12:54 PM
