No, it won't work on a '99 Ranger, it's only for the pre-OBD-II Rangers. You'll have to get the ABS codes pulled with a OBD-II scanner that can read Ford proprietory codes (not just generic codes). Aside from the dealership, maybe a local brake shop can do it for you.

 

Steve77: This is the way the system works. When both the ABS and Brake lights are on, this indicate a problem with the ABS system. The ABS system is something that is layered on top of the regular braking system. The regular brake systen is still working properly but the ABS system is not functional.

Take the truck to a brake repair service and have them trouble shoot the ABS system.

Let us know that you find.

 

michigan66, have you pulled another "all nighter"????? Up at 5:24 AM, answering a 6 year old question, in an 8 year old thread, son you need more shuteye time!!!!! lol

 

I upgraded to a 2004 F150 Heritage about 3 and a half years ago. Thanks for the response though.

 

Did a lot of reading on here b4 posting this ?. Anyway, its goodto find a good Ford forum. Here's my problem. I have a 94 4wd Ranger. 5spd. When i bought it,as i was driving it on to the trailer the front brake line blew. LOL. When i got it home i went through everything. Replaced the brake line,bled the brakes.Took it for a ride. Red parking/low fluid brake light is on,along with the ABS light. Topped off the fluid and checked the connectors at the MC. Turns out 1 of the spring tabs was corroded and gone. Going to get the new connector today. ABS light will not go out. Pulled the codes as per Kens instructions( Huge help). I get a repeating code 12. Tried to clear the codes as per the instructions i found. (Shut key off with connector still unplugged). Code 12 is still there. Which says",Hydraulic leak during ABS activation". This most likely is not word for word. There are no leaks and the brakes have been bled. Any help is very appreciated. Jim

 

Welcome to FTE.

Good to hear the search function & info found proved helpful.

If the brake system is now tight, maybe the fluid got low enough to let air get into the ABS module valving & if so, you'll need a high end scantool & vacuum source to actuate the ABS module while vacuum bleeding the system, or have a good brake shop or Dealer with the needed tools to do it.

Since you like to turn your own wrenches, be sure to check out the the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum, for all kinds of other Ranger repair info.

Some thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.

 

I was afraid someone would say exactly that Pawpaw. LMAO! I used a Phoenix brake bleeder on it. I did read what you had posted some place. I have read most if not all the Ranger/Explorer ABS brake stuff on here. I try to do that b4 i ask a ? that may have already been answered. Some good info i haven't read yet also i'm sure.

 

Another thought came to mind, since the right side line was soft enough to blow out, maybe the left side rubber line is also soft & if it is, it could expand enough to give & cause a soft spongy pedal & that'll also aggreviate the ABS system.

Make sure the brake hoses & calipers are in good repair & if you have 4WABS that the front wheel tone rings, speed sensors are clear of rust & debris & the sensors & wiring to them is in good repair. The rear ABS speed sensor is inside/atop the front center of the rear differential housing, so it's not as prone to debris, but when it acts out, we could have ABS warning light, speed-o, cruise control & auto tranny shifting problems, so keep those thoughts in mind after you get the current ABS code put right.

 

Good thoughts. Drivers side line did appear to be in decent condition. I did replace both front calipers though. At 15$ a piece. I think its well worth it. Especially if bleed screws and calipers are rusted.
While working on the front. I looked, but could not see any wires or tone rings at the front wheels. I think the front brake hydraulic system most likely ended up completely drained. Which i believe is at least part of my problem. Maybe air is still trapped in the ABS system. Although the brakes seem to work great. Pedal isn't soft at all.
Going to have to research the method of bleeding the ABS system some more and possible tools needed. The bleeding method i used(pressure bleeding) is suppose to be fine/safe for ABS systems. I have wondered if i would need the scan tool to do it properly though. Some things iv'e read have said you may or may not need the scan tool.

 

You'd only need a special scantool to actuate the ABS motor & valving & a vacuum attachment to pull any air out of the ABS valving IF you let the fluid get so low as to have let air get into it. So if we don't let the fluid level get low, pressure bleeding the system is ok, it just doesn't get new fluid into the ABS valving.
Sounds like you don't have 4 wheel ABS, just rear wheel ABS & that system is much simpler.

 

I'm sure the fluid in the front brake system got very low. Maybe even empty. The part i'm having a hard time with is. If it is a RABS system. I am pretty certain it is. How does the front brake system affect the rear ABS system? I can understand that the system detected a leak when the brakes where applied and the front line broke. Then the rear ABS system engaged.

 

For a 1994 Ranger. Not sure which other years this applies to.
Trouble Code Condition
2- Open RABS Isolation Solenoid Circuit
3- Open RABS Dump Solenoid Circuit
4 *- Open/grounded Valve Reset Circuit
5- Excessive Dump Solenoid Activity
6- Erratic Speed Sensor Circuit
7- No Isolation Solenoid during self-check
8- No dump solenoid During Self-check
9- High Speed Sensor resistance
10- Low speed Sensor resistance
11- Stop lamp Circuit Always Closed
12- Loss Of Hydraulic Fluid During Anti-lock Stop
13- Anti-lock Electrical Control Unit Failure
16 -or more. Drive test.

I am getting Code 12

 

OK, since you have the system fixed, have you disconnected the battery B- cable for 15 min or so, to tell the computer that a repair has been made, so it can reset & erase the code????

 

A RABS braking system has no effect on the front brakes. It onlt provides antilock ability on the rear brakes.

A side note to Pawpaw: I know 5:40 am is a terrible time to be on the computer but then its also a terrible thing to have to be up at that time for other necessary things (You know, the older man stuff.) Since I'm up, why not do something productive for a while. Then I can go back to bed and get several more hours of good sleep.

 

"A RABS braking system has no effect on the front brakes. It onlt provides antilock ability on the rear brakes."

Exactly my point. BUT,See code 12 above. There isn't a rear brake line failure. I have checked. Only the front line. Which is now fixed.
Pawpaw. Yes,i did disconnect the battery. Left it that way overnight. Codes are still there.