I'm understanding everything with tuning the carb except the pump cams. I understand "1,2, or 3" hole positions depending on idle rpms but what's the difference between the different color pump cams Holley offers and how do I know which one I need. Thanks

 

Their profiles are different to very the amount the accelerator pump gets squeezed and over how much throttle movement. Unfortunately there is no way to tell what cam you will need. The hole positions in each one will vary how and how much the accelerator pump cam will be pushed given that particular cam.

I wouldnt buy a kit of them until you give up all hopes with the one you have (or two given the secondary circuit).

 

Just got off the phone with Holley and the part is surprisingly cheap. Only $28 thru summit. Part number 20-48-1. So I'll be purchasing that when I get the cash. Got a new job first day starting Monday so that should help with these incoming truck expenses.

I guess I can get other parts such as Power Valves, Jets, Nozzles/Squirters at local auto store and return what I end up not using.

Does this kickdown cable thing seem like the problem for it not shifting? Also wasn't able to get rpms very high with the engine bogging before so that may have to do with the shifting.

Meanwhile, she sits and waits

 

The kickdown should have nothing to do with it shifting properly. The only thing the kickdown should do is get the transmission to drop a gear when you romp on it. I would think worse case, if you have the kickdown rod just hanging there and it is in the throttle wide open position, it might not upshift on you.

Sometimes the local shops at least have a Holley jet kit with all the normal range of jets. As long as you don't mar them when testing them out you might be able to convince them to keep swapping you pairs until you find the ones you need.

Power valves, squirters, and accelerator pump cams might be harder to find. But you can certainly order them online and likely from Summit.

When you order your kickdown lever part, get yourself a rebuild kit if you didn't already. Also make sure you get the re-usable bowl gaskets. Regular one time use ones are a cork material. To change the jets and power valves you have to take the bowls off.

 

Alright. The kit for squirters is over $100. Would I have to buy that whole assortment or is their a way to know which ones I would need.

 

The kick down lever is not affecting your upshifting. It's for passing gear.

Still, rather than worry about a new shaft, and a kit, and squirters, jets and power valves, I still think you'd be better off with a nice 600ish CFM with vacuum secondaries. Get yourself a nice edelbrock, configured correctly (kickdown, choke, Ford linkage) and be happy

 

The way you had it hooked up with the kick down on the thorttle the trans would likly always be in kick down mode so it may have affected your up shifts. Get the kick down hooked up properly and go from there, it may solve the issue. One step at a time.

 

Well before I purchase all these parts. Should I stick with the Holley 650 or get a edlebrock 600. What's the advantage between the two?

If setup correctly would the Holley be good, or would it too much for my basically stock 400?

What differences would their be between a 600 and 650?

If setup correctly, would the Holley be better than an edlebrock, or would a properly setup edlebrock be better?

is it just as difficult setting up an edlebrock or would it be fairly simple.

What the difference between mechanical and vacuum secondaries?

Thanks, I know y'all have helped me a lot throughout this thread.

 

There's a lot of personal preference between Edelbrock and Holley. I think Edelbrock has a better design, and less to mess with. With Holley, you can customize every aspect. I think Edelbrock is probably "easier"

You can use a CFM calculator to determine what you need. In reality, no discernible difference between 600 and 650

Mechanical secondaries have a lot more parts, dual fuel inlets and the front and rear throttle plates are tied together mechanically. With vacuum secondaries, the secondaries only open when you mash the throttle

In your case, I'd go Edelbrock with the correct Ford linkage, kickdown and choke. Vacuum secondaries at 600-650 CFM

Good luck!

 

Personally I'd take the Holley its infinitely more tuneable easier to get parts way way more after market support there are many books available for tuning and setting up Holleys they will digest more crap than the carter (Edebrock) plus they were originally designed for Ford ,and you already have it. performance wise the double pumper will out perform any vac secondary carb once set up.

 

Performance would be better but I doubt he's really looking for a hot rod here. If anything his mileage will probably suffer more with that DP and auto than if he went vac secondary. Without fully knowing what to do tuning and his combo myself I'd stay with a Holley but get a normal 4160 600. I'm sure he'd rather spend a little less at the pump and have something that'll most likely work better.

 

Economy will only suffer if you don't keep your foot out of it ,mind you with a double pumper the urge to bury your foot in it is prett hard to resist.

 

Not really supposed to drill jets, as they are broached and flowed. But what you can do is drill them out for jetting purposes, when you get them dialed in go buy that size you ended up at. This will save some money over buying a whole kit.

 

Not too worried about economy as I will be putting a 4bt in the truck eventually when the time comes. But that'll be a year or two. I'm don't mind spending a few hours and putting in the effort to get the carb tuned correctly. Just don't want to throw another $100 into for jets. But maybe I could try the drilling thing. And while I know his aint no hotrod. I will admit that there will be those times where I pretend it is. Hehe

 

Drilling is not advisable cause of you frill and get the right size you won't be able to cross it to a stock size.

Get it running best you can then worry about re-jetting. And really you need an AFR meter to dial it in.