I've searched this and looked at the threads on this. I know adjustable rocker arms were made for a solid lifter setup back in the day. I have some questions on this subject , I have a new 360 rebuild with lifter tapping. I had the 9.621 rods in with tap , I put the next size up according to ford specs 9.77 and it wont turn over .
Can you put adjustable rockers on hydraulic lifters?

 

You can but shouldn't need to, it sounds like a bad lifter to me. To buy a decent set of adjustable rocker arms you'll be shocked.

 

I had one do this. swore up and down it was lifter. Turned out to be bad valve guide. Took about 3 rockers and about 7 pushrods to find it.

 

Thank you Everyone! Everything is Torqued down to Spec. Looks like it would be bad lifters. Larger rebuild down the road I think with the engine out.

 

Adjustables are nice but like has been said they're expensive and not needed.

If your lifters are old more than likely that's your problem . but what do you mean by you can't turn it over ? you made a HUGE jump in length that I doubt is a good idea but if it actually won't turn over get them out now.

The only way to do it right, assuming your lifters and heads are good it to use a length checker rod. get on the base circle and get the rod adjusted until you just feel resistance when you twist it. then add your preload and this is the length you need and unless you're real lucky it will be a custom length. I use Smith brothers they're fast and do a great job. well and they're 20 miles away.

Of course if you do plan on rebuilding it in the near future this would be a waste because you'll need to buy another set.

 

I am having lifter noise also. About 4000 miles on a rebuilt 390. I had an extra set of adjustable rockers so I installed the to see if I had a lifter problem. No real change.
Could you elaborate on what your symptoms were and how you found the problem? How about some pictures of the bad valve guide?
mine seems to make noise on a warming up motor at 65 mph and the gets quiter as it reaches operating temp.
Thanks

 

I do believe the lifter stands are shorter for the stock adjustable rockers and the ratio is different. If you don't have the high rise heads you can't use them.

 

I have used the adjustable rockers before. Since they require different style pushrods I don't think the height of the stand is as critical or they are designed to be correct with the different length pushrods. I also believe the ratio is a little different, more lift with the same cam
1.73 to 1 I think

 

The push rod length on adjustables isn't as critical but it has to be close enough to maintain the correct geometry.

 

just noise and when I grab the valves they should be tight, but if one is looser than it should be, then go after the guide.

 

For some reason in recent years I keep reading about rebuilt Ford engines and bent pushrods. Subject comes up more than it should.
With a ticking lifter in a recent rebuild I'd first check for loose or broken components up top. Sounds like you did take yours apart a bit to install the new pushrods (this is never a guessing game! It's a measuring game) but did you check for the usual suspects while in there?
Those are:
1. Bent pushrod
2. Broken spring
3. Rocker stud pulling out (if yours has studs. If it's bolts then this is not an issue.)
4. Loose guides. (should not be an issue with only 4,000 miles, but if the geometry is wrong it could happen)

If none of those, it could just be a stuck or gummed up lifter. I know a lot won't agree with this, but when I first hear a light tick from a lifter my go-to first step is to add a cleaner additive to the oil to see if it will clear up the ticking.
If it does not, then I go to Plan-B which is to open it back up and check.

Of course, even before any of that I would have a stethoscope out and verify PRECISELY where the noise is coming from. This way you know where to look.
And it would be a shame to find out it's an exhaust leak or a loose spark plug making the noise all this time!

Good luck.

Paul

 

I just had another horrible thought...
If this is a recently rebuilt engine, did you perform the proper cam break-in procedure (if a flat-tappet cam that is) AND are you still using a proper high-ZDDP motor oil in it to protect the cam?
I hope so, because this is another scenario where a valvetrain component can start making noise.

Paul