2002 f150 4.2 rear main seal
#16
Wow I didn't realize how bad the fram filters were! I have used them for years and never had any issues. Anyway looks like I am going to get a hold of a cherry picker and tranny jack to get this done. I can't see myself spending the $500-$800 in labor plus I don't have the extra $ for it at this time.
#18
There is not enough room to get the pan out with the trans in the truck. There is a oil pick up tube that is prob 3/8" off the bottom of the pan and IIRC there is a baffle in the pan around that tube. You have to pull the trans and jack the engine up as high as it will go to get the pan out. Then you have to clean off the old silicone and prep the surface for new. IMO its easier to pull the engine out and that's how Ford says to do it in their workshop manual.
Although I respect the great amount of knowledge the above author has, I just did this on a similar pickup I own yesterday and leaving the engine in was not bad at all.
I have to thank the generous knowledge given in this thread and forum.
I just completed this task, 1997 F150 4x4 4.2L V-6 manual transmission.
Removing the front axle through-bolts from the frame, and wiggling it down about 3 inches made the oil pan removal very easy. I did have to then remove the two 10mm-head bolts holding the oil pick-up tube from the engine block, and oil pan slid right out.
My problems were:
(1.) failed slave-cylinder-throwout bearing,
(2.) leaking rear main crankshaft seal,
(3.) and leaking oil pan seal.
Out came the: transfer case, transmission, flywheel, front axle slid down about 3 inches (easier than it sounds to do), oil pan, and rear-main-bearing cap (to remove the circular rear main seal).
Generous advice, mostly from experienced Ford technicians gave me the information to save my cherished pickup, asI wouldn't be able to pay someone else to fix it.
As people have suggested, I think having a helper and transmission jack (I rented one from a pawn shop for $20, well worth it), remove the trans, remove the oil pan, replace rear main seal, and oil pan gaskets, because you do not want to have to go in again. With that high of mileage, replace the oil pump as well. My $0.02.
#20
Yes as indicated I am going to attack this one probably on my own. I don't have the additional $500-$800 to give for the labor cost. I realize it is time consuming and any parts that can be replaced while I have everything apart will help out. For example I replaced the transmission filter and 4 quarts in the pan already about 500 miles ago. However there are still 9+ quarts still in the Torque Converter and rest of the tranny that are original with the truck. I ONLY want to do this ONE time. Are there any other seals or parts that you all think should be replaced at over 196k miles. Like I said before truck runs like a champ and I plan to keep it that way.
#21
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#24
The cheap ones are that. The ones that cost $20.00 up are good and on par with Ford. In the state of OK, there is a filter place that makes all types and brands of filters. Kind of like oil, antifreeze, and other stuff. The reason I know this is once upon a time I was a truck driver. You can watch the stuff come down the line and go into boxes. Like the coils for Ford, are not made by Ford, but must meet their specs.
#25
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