FE 390 Hydraulic Lifters help

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Old 12-25-2016, 09:01 AM
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FE 390 Hydraulic Lifters help

Currently researching and collecting parts for my 390 build and for most part things are wrapping up quite nicely. But I do have a question in regards to the choice of lifters. I know I will be using hydraulic flat tapped lifters with non adjustable rockers. I am looking into a Lunati P/N: 10330701 cam, but there is also a choice of purchasing a kit with it, which comes with lifters. I do have stock lifters from my old block and they are in good condition. Lunati claims their lifters are superior and weight less. Crane offers anti pump lifters CRN-99281-16.

I have three choices from which to chose. If anyone could give me some pointers on choosing lifters it would be greatly appreciated.

Nick
 
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:52 PM
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It's always a good idea to use new flat tappet lifters with a new flat tappet cam so they will break-in together. Lifters should be cheap compared to all the work you will have to do if you ruin the new cam lobes with old lifters and have to go in and replace everything again.
 
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Old 12-25-2016, 01:25 PM
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I would recommend from personal experience that you go with new performance lifters. The Crane or Lunati lifters bleed off faster that stock Ford lifters to prevent "lifter float", a condition that occurs at high RPM and the lifters don't allow the valve to close securely. You also need to use a set of High RPM valve springs. I used Crane's springs. They insure both intimate lifter to cam contact and offer the resistance need for the hydraulic bleed off of the lifter at hi rev's. I had a dual point distributer and I was making power thru 6,200 rpm. That's as tight as I would wind a FE unless it was a 427 Side oiler with the side bolts on the mains. PS, Don't forget the cam lube.
 
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Old 12-25-2016, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffreyclay
I would recommend from personal experience that you go with new performance lifters. The Crane or Lunati lifters bleed off faster that stock Ford lifters to prevent "lifter float", a condition that occurs at high RPM and the lifters don't allow the valve to close securely. You also need to use a set of High RPM valve springs. I used Crane's springs. They insure both intimate lifter to cam contact and offer the resistance need for the hydraulic bleed off of the lifter at hi rev's. I had a dual point distributer and I was making power thru 6,200 rpm. That's as tight as I would wind a FE unless it was a 427 Side oiler with the side bolts on the mains. PS, Don't forget the cam lube.
thank you for a response. what valve spring pressure have you put together? Did you use roller cam of flat tapped?
 
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:15 AM
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It is important you check lifter preload. Most if not all aftermarket cams will be ground on a different base circle than the stock cam.
 
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Old 01-17-2017, 12:34 PM
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Never ever use used lifters on a new cam! You'll probably wipe it flat. Even with new lifters and cam be sure to use a zinc breakin lube.
 
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:42 PM
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Nick,

Lifter metal has to be compatible with the cam metal. Use the matched-set lifters offered by the cam manufacturer. Mix at your own risk. You might check with the cam manufacturer, as they may have an idea if the heat-treatment is compatible.

It is important, as the cam needs to rotate the lifter a little in it's bore. This prevents the cam lobe from being wiped out (eroded).
 
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