When I removed my front clip I had to cut the bottom bolt, that holds the fender, off because it was so rusted in. I would like to treat the back side of the bolt but it was full of mouse nest and dirt. Any tricks or tips of how to get this cleaned out? My hand is way to big and I cannot see in there worth a crap. There is very little room because of the door hinge support. Does this support come out? It looks like it is welded in and part of the cab. Also, at what point is it a good idea to replace the cab corner? It looks good on the outside but I am sure it is rusted on the inside and almost impossibly to de-rust. What have you guys done? Thanks for any tips and/or pictures in advance. Dave

 

Possibly use a Shop Vac to suck out the debris.
I used Por 15 on a long brush to slop it down into the corner.

 

I have used my Shop Vac. Unfortunately it is to big to get down to the bottom. I guess I'll bite the bullet and go buy a skinny hose. What makes me mad is I have one but can't find it! Does that ever happen to any of you guys?

 

Blow the trash out with air.

 

Some tools I use to clean out many with a coat hanger/string and air compressor

KBS is a. coating not really a paint I spray brush or just pour it in and roll whatever around

If I don't have a lot to cover I buy a qt. A gallon goes bad before I can us it some time

 

Sometimes I have used a chunk of 5/8's I.D. garden hose taped to the big hose on the shop vac. Have to do that to clean out the crud in my water heater sometimes.
PS, I have a pair of tin snips just like those green handled ones in my shop. Or at least I used to. LOL

 

I vote for blowing it out and using a blast of POR15 through a syringe, or similar.After the sealer has dried, drill a hole to allow future drainage and a dab of the sealer to touch up the hole's edges.

 

The bottle brush works great on bed roll and radiator support I ground the handle to go into small spaces and tie a string on the end I think the turn is improvise

 

As a last resort you could open it up like the '56. They have an access hole and, I believe, a cover plate.

Edit: They call it an "inspection plate."

I wouldn't do it if I had a cab corner that solid, but in all fairness it is an option.

 

Wow, thanks for all the suggestions guys! It's good that you can all share your experience, but sad that the Ford cabs have this issue. I guess 61 years isn't bad! Does anyone know if these truck originally had a drain hole in the bottom?

I don't want to open it up either! Not sure what the 55' corner looks like, but am going to check it out as soon as I'm done here.

 

The 56 corner looks like a good replacement if the corner does need repaired. We haven't got that far so will follow along with your journey.

 

I have something g I use to clean out the dryer lint collector and hose. It is a plastic nozzle wider at one end that slips over your shop vac hose, then a clear plastic tube slips over the other end. You can stick Otway down into the dryer. You could probably rig something like that with a length of hose duct taped o to you shop vac hose.

 

There is a reason that the 56 model has the inspection plate, it took Ford a few years to figure out that there was a need to get into that cavity to access the bolt/anchor nut and to clean out the cavity. "I would like to treat the back side of the bolt but it was full of mouse nest and dirt."...this is an issue with many F100 owners, the drain clogs with debris and then the water sits and rots out the cab corner. All the cabs that I work on get inspection plates...it's a simple fix and a good thing to do.

 

Thanks for the great advise Charlie! Once I get in there and cleaned out the best I can I will make a decision. Does the 56 model also fit on the 55 or is there one specific to the 55???

 

Don't get too carried away with what fits and what doesn't...I cut an opening out that looks like the one on a 56 but don't pay too much mind to making it an exact match. The idea is to make the opening large enough to get in there and clean out the debris. I cut a cover plate using 18 ga steel, I like to keep it thin enough to cut with tin snips/shears. I use a couple of self-tapping screws and it's good to go. Paint the cover with Rust Seal or some other quality paint...I also brush a liberal quantity of paint inside the cavity before installing the plate.
Here is a pic of a 54 cab that I just did...it gives you an idea of what it looks like when installed.