Noticed a little oil spot on the ground. This is right where the transmission meets the motor...transmission fluid is completely good and the motor oil is a little low. What's going on here how do I make this better and tips for someone that has no money right now for new parts ?
This vehicle is a 1986 e350 with the 460 motor. If you need more pictures or whatever let me know. Anything helps.

 

its the rear main seal , 20$ part just have to drop the tranny . it's all labor .
Quick and dirty use lucas oil leak stop i have had good results with their products ,

 

I think on the older 460's, they have a 2 piece seal and you have to drop the oil pan.

I'm not sure you have to drop the transmission on a 302 if you can get the oil pan down far enough but you may have to with the 460

 

Double check this part number. Motorcraft E6TZ-6701-A
Rock auto lists several different seals with different part numbers but if i am correct the E6 in the part number is E=1980's and the 6=the actual year, hence 1986
member NumberDummy would know for sure..
I personally would look on Ebay and find a Motorcraft seal. I was reading comments on a video about changing the rear main seal and one of the comments said you might have to trim the felpro seal and that the motorcraft seal is the correct size and doesn't need to be trimmed.

I couldn't find a good video for you on the 460 so I recommend you watch several videos on 2 piece main seal replacements on for ford engines and do a little reading before starting on the project.
You may have to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up to get the oil pan off. If it will come off that way. I have only ever changed one rear main and it was on a Mercury 4 cylinder. I had enough room to push the oil pan forward enough to clear the rear main bearing cap but you are talking a much bigger engine..

I also believe you have to offset the seal for proper instillation. You leave one side sticking up 3/8" that will fit into the cap and one side sticking up 3/8" on the cap that will fit in the block. Be sure and face the lip of both seals towards the front of the engine. soak the seals in oil just prior to instillation as it will make them swell up. You should get a little plastic strip with the seal. The strip will hav ea little tongue that you will stick into the groove on the block on the side that you insert the seal in. This will protect the seal from being cut or nicked as you insert the seal.
BE VERY CAREFUL when removing the old seal from around the crank and block. If you nick the crank shaft or groove, you are in big trouble.. I recommend you use something besides metal as a punch but not something that will break off. You just need to get one end out enough to pull it out with pliers. you may have to resort to loosening up all the bearing caps holding the crank to get it to drop down just a tiny bit on the rear end so the seal will come out easier. If so, be sure and re-torque them correctly, DON"T FORGET ONE!

 

This is great information. Thank you so much. I think I'm gonna take it in to have it done and hopefully find a good deal. I just don't have the tools to do a job like this. I'm going to shop around and hopefully figure out a temporary fix to get me from A-B. Thanks again

 

Richter Roxs suggestion about Lucas oil stop leak is very very well worth trying..

On a positive note.. My mother has a 78 E100 with a 351w. The rear main seal has been dripping for several years now and we have never added anything to the oil. It is a very small drip and leaves about a 1" spot on the concrete after sitting for a a few days and there is no trail of oil slung all over the underbody. She doesn't drive but a couple of hundred miles a month though So allot may depend on just how bad the leak is.

Even though it sure appears to be a rear main seal, there is a slight chance that it could be the oil pan leaking at the back and running down the front of the trany in which case if the oil gods smile on you, you might be able to just snug the oil pan bolts up a little and stop the leak..