There is still a ton of potentially valuable information that could be learned from this thread. I get it, your truck is good to go and so you feel done. There are many of us out here that sit here and wonder the same thing about ours and you have sparked a legitimate discussion where we can all learn something. As a valuable member of FTE and appreciator of your information I respectfully request that you take your request to close the thread and still contribute.

 

Thanks.

It is not because my truck is done. I won't tolerate the disrespect of people who only know how to criticize some one taking the initiative to try something different. I'm a man, I have respect for myself and others.

 

The Oil Cooler Bypass valve was absolutely sticking open on my truck I just can't prove it without adding a significant amount of sensors on the valve body. The ledge on the valve is the thickness of your fingernail. This picture shows how the rubber portion of the valve has compressed, the valve body has a raised lip the seals against the rubber - so now if it is partially offset then it won't seal.

I hope that BulletProof continued to sell these brass valves.

If I had access to a 14k trailer I'd tow over the pass just to see what the motor did, once with the new valve and once with the old valve would be a great test. It is a handful of minutes to swap the valves.

 

Thanks for the thread and time dedicated to it.

 

I've since sold my 6.0L, interesting concepts in the thread.

 

Have you installed the valve yet? I believe I'm about to go your route.

 

I ran my 84 mile trip and couldn't get it to act up. So I'm not going to install until I get a clear oil over heat. Today ambient temps 62 deg. Oil not past 205.7 at highest. This was about 60 min into trip. This was pulling a small trailer.

 

I'd love to see this as a magical fix instead of replacing a good oil cooler.

 

I'm with you, but we won't know until we do a good before and after measurement. I don't have my hopes real high on this, But for 20 bucks and 20 minutes it's sure worth a shot.

 

I would not be concerned with actual run Temp being high or low, do the swap and test again so we can see the difference in temperatures. Your pictures are exactly the situation I experienced, only at a different operating temperature and you do have some good high ICP PSI. Fingers crossed for you.

 

I think it will work - I'll tell you why later.... after you put up your next pictures. Also, include pictures of your valve and the rubber seal.

 

I feel like mine is about to pop at any given moment when I mash it to the floorboard.

 

Your temps are too high. Next picture, please show RPMs with HPOP PSI which you have.

Look into a full coolant system flush with Fleetguard Restore in there for at least enough time to take your temps up above 190'F. Just don't shock the block by pouring cold water through a hot motor.

You can get a gallon of Restore at Ryder Fleet, use half a gallon for the flush up to 190'F. Yes, drain the radiator and at least the drivers side of the block at a minimum.

 

If he's running a Mishimoto t stat, the coolant is right on the money.

 

What's the secret here...???