Oil Cooler Bypass Valve and Temperatures Differences
#61
There is still a ton of potentially valuable information that could be learned from this thread. I get it, your truck is good to go and so you feel done. There are many of us out here that sit here and wonder the same thing about ours and you have sparked a legitimate discussion where we can all learn something. As a valuable member of FTE and appreciator of your information I respectfully request that you take your request to close the thread and still contribute.
#62
There is still a ton of potentially valuable information that could be learned from this thread. I get it, your truck is good to go and so you feel done. There are many of us out here that sit here and wonder the same thing about ours and you have sparked a legitimate discussion where we can all learn something. As a valuable member of FTE and appreciator of your information I respectfully request that you take your request to close the thread and still contribute.
It is not because my truck is done. I won't tolerate the disrespect of people who only know how to criticize some one taking the initiative to try something different. I'm a man, I have respect for myself and others.
#63
The Oil Cooler Bypass valve was absolutely sticking open on my truck I just can't prove it without adding a significant amount of sensors on the valve body. The ledge on the valve is the thickness of your fingernail. This picture shows how the rubber portion of the valve has compressed, the valve body has a raised lip the seals against the rubber - so now if it is partially offset then it won't seal.
I hope that BulletProof continued to sell these brass valves.
If I had access to a 14k trailer I'd tow over the pass just to see what the motor did, once with the new valve and once with the old valve would be a great test. It is a handful of minutes to swap the valves.
I hope that BulletProof continued to sell these brass valves.
If I had access to a 14k trailer I'd tow over the pass just to see what the motor did, once with the new valve and once with the old valve would be a great test. It is a handful of minutes to swap the valves.
#67
#69
#70
I would not be concerned with actual run Temp being high or low, do the swap and test again so we can see the difference in temperatures. Your pictures are exactly the situation I experienced, only at a different operating temperature and you do have some good high ICP PSI. Fingers crossed for you.
#73
Look into a full coolant system flush with Fleetguard Restore in there for at least enough time to take your temps up above 190'F. Just don't shock the block by pouring cold water through a hot motor.
You can get a gallon of Restore at Ryder Fleet, use half a gallon for the flush up to 190'F. Yes, drain the radiator and at least the drivers side of the block at a minimum.
#75