Hello FTE Dudes and Dudet's. After weeks of chiropractor adjustments, I finally felt well enough to torque down my new heads. I followed the directions and added a thin strip of silicone on both head and block surface to separate the oil and coolant passages on the one area on both sides of the motor, kinda weird but I did what it said. Torqued to 75 lb.'s using criss cross 3 step method, but now My back is out again from lifting the heads back in place, so I figured while waiting for my back to improve, I would ask a question. My next step will be push rod measuring, lashing and preload. I've done a lot of research so I feel sorta comfortable doing it, but was wondering what effect reusing my old lifters, will have, being some have probably bled off and some are still full of oil, all depending where they were on the cam when the motor was last turned off. Im guessing to set them, run or turn the motor over a few times to pump up all the lifters again then reset them? If any one has any tips or suggestions on the matter, I would greatly appreciate your input.

 

With new lifters it's best to soak them in oil so probably a good idea with used . I have always ended up resetting the lifters after a short run even when faithfully following procedures .

 

While I don't remember all the stats on your motor and I don't recall If you are reusing your old cam and lifters, If so make sure each lifters goes back into the same lobe it came off of. The wear patterns are matched and by putting them in a different location you will have a very high chance of camshaft failure.

New cam = new lifters
Used cam = new lifters or put the old ones back exactly where the came off.

 

I'm not reading that you removed the lifters and there really wasn't any reason for you to remove them. If you have and aren't certain about placing them where they originally came from I'd probably just install a new set rather than take a chance of wearing a cam out early and having to go through the pain and expense. They shouldn't have leaked down just sitting there otherwise every engine with them would clatter when starting after having sat for a couple days. Just follow the instructions and you should be fine.

 

I had a Harley that would make a lot of racket when started after sitting all week. If I turned the engine over a few times before starting it, it was fine. I attributed the racket to bleed down.

 

I've never figured out how to do multiple quotes on one post, so if I ever forget to mention your response by name its not intentional, that's why I often just clump together My responses. Just know how much I appreciate every single response. Yes I'm using my same cam and lifters (flat tappet) and have not touched them. Its nice to learn that I have the option to use new lifters on a used cam as long as they are placed in there original bore, and that a new cam requires new lifters. I just cant express how much each and every response helps me, it takes the whole village to educate one small boy. Thanks everyone foe educating me.

 

Dont worry about the lifters if you have not pulled them. If the engine has sat a long time just use a preoiler and check for oil at all of the rocker arms.
The most important thing with flat tappet lifters, used or new, is that they rotate. I mark each pushrod with a marker and crank the engine over by hand once all the valves are adjusted, any lifter that does not spin will wipe out the cam lobe.

 

More valuable information, I just ordered a pre oiler (ext) tool. Thank you Dave.

 

No problem, with the ford I believe you have to spin the oiler counter clockwise, so set your drill to run in reverse. You may need to rotate the crank a bit if you do not get oil at all of the rockers.

 

To pre oil a SBF all you need is a 5/16 deep socket and extension. You can spin it with a ratchet, speed wrench, drill, what ever. No need to spend money for something you already have.

 

Good morning all , I see I slept thru class this morning. But woke up to more good information as always, Thanks guys for posting your knowledge.

 

I have one more question, which is how to reset timing when thru. After I rotate the engine to adjust the valve train, do I just set #1 cylinder to TDC with both valves closed then point the distributor rotor to #1 and then retime as necessary? I currently have not rotated the motor at all, and marked the position of the distributor and rotor where it was B4 any disassembly. I thought I would ask b4 I started, even if it seems simple to most, Im not sure so I ask.

 

Jim you should be go to go just put it back on the marks. Sounds like you took all the precautions. I was never so lucky as to get it back just right.

 

Here's how you do it. Do you see those quotation marks to the right of the word and icon quote? When you want to quote the first person hit the quotation marks, then go to the next post you want to quote and do the same. At the final post you want to quote, hit the quote icon and all the quotes will show up at your post. Try it!

 

Please excuse my lack of Ford knowledge, but dont you have adjustable valves? If that is the case you will be turning the engine over to adjust them, then you will need to set the distributor.
You are correct on the distributor setting. I put a piece of rag in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over with the starter. When the rag pops out (it will be loud, can't miss it) then you are on the #1 compression stroke. Then rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing tab and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. If the distributor does not seat all the way because it did not fit into the oil pump drive then bump the engine or rotate by hand until the distributor falls all the way into place. Then adjust the timing once the engine is fired.