1995 F250 5.8 with AOD, 170K miles.

I hadn't driven my truck for a couple of weeks but this morning I went out, started it up, put it in reverse and backed down my driveway. Everything was fine until I put it in Drive. As soon as I did, it died instantly. I put in neutral, restarted it and put it back in drive and it stalled again.

I found that if I start it and go directly to "1", it will stay running. But as soon as I move the lever to "2" or "D", it stalls immediately. It idles fine and acts normally in Reverse or "1".

Thoughts? It ran perfectly lat time I drove it a couple weeks ago.

 

If you start rolling in 1st, then put it into drive, does it stay running? Does it try to stall when coming to a stop?

 

Yep. Forgot to mention that - it stalled when I tried to stop.

 

You have an E4OD, not an AOD. The AOD was never offered behind a 5.8, and the AOD was discontinued after the 1993 model year.

It appears your torque converter clutch is locking up when you shift the transmission into "D" or "2". That's really the only thing that can be causing this issue - especially since it doesn't do it in manual 1st or Reverse.

Unfortunately I suspect you have a valve body issue that is causing the converter clutch to be applied in Drive and 2. To verify, try unplugging the transmission solenoid pack connector on the right hand (passenger side) of the transmission. If the problem goes away, you have an electrical issue, if the problem persists, the transmission will need service.

I also believe low/bad fluid can cause torque converter weirdness, you may want to check your fluid level as well.

 

Thanks for the E4OD clarification. You are correct - I unplugged the solenoid pack connector and I could once again put it into Drive and 2 without it stalling. Of course it won't shift on its own now but I shifted it manually and all of the gears are still there. I also verified that the fluid level is fine.

I suppose this is bad news for me?

 

Not necessarily. It seems that your torque converter clutch wire may be shorted to ground, which will engage the converter clutch whenever hydraulically possible (apparently not in manual 1st or Reverse)

Check the solenoid pack connector for frayed wires and damaged insulation - a very common issue. Next I'd plug the connector in and try checking for codes.

 

Figured out how to pull the codes today. First thing I did was to clean the transmission electrical connector and inspected what I could of the wiring, which seemed ok. I then cleared the codes (it had a bunch from me driving it with the harness disconnected).

Here were the codes it flashed (KOEO):

629
629
1 (?)
212
212

629 says "Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions", which makes sense.

212 says " Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems" I have no idea what this means.

Thoughts? Solenoid pack?

 

It is either the solenoid or the wiring from the PCM to the solenoid. The only way to know which one is the problem is to get a volt meter and measure the wiring and the solenoid. One of them is bad.

 

In this case, your converter clutch solenoid circuit is likely shorted to ground, causing the solenoid to be engaged all the time.

 

That's right, but it could be either the wiring or the solenoid.

 

Correct definition for Code 212: Loss of IDM input to EEC

Most likely cause is having the wrong Ignition Control Module (ICM) installed on the truck. It should have a black Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) version. I bet good money someone installed the wrong gray colored Push-Start Ignition version. Very common problem, compounded by most part manuals list the wrong one (including Ford).

 

Well you guys weren't wrong about the wiring. The solenoid plug is a mess and all of the wires were basically melted together. I cleaned it up as best I could but it still stalls in D and 2.

I have no idea if this is the source of my problem, but it needs to be replaced for sure.

 

Connector is trash and needs to be replaced. You can find replacement repair connectors on e-bay or through the Ford dealer. They come with the connector pre-attached to a small length of harness to splice into your existing harness.

Make sure you the '95 and up repair connector.

 

Yep, already ordered one. When it arrives, I'll splice it in and report back. Thanks to everyone for the help so far.

 

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