Yes keep going.

How does the engine sit neXT to the firewall? I.e. if you want to run a turbo

 

So now that all the notching is over with we can finally get to Motor Mounts and getting this engine mounted up. But first thing is first, we have to get something to mount everything to. In this case I will be reusing the original NP435, mostly for the fact this will be used as a Trail and Offroad rig, and with the incredibly low 6.68 1st gear it provides a truly amazing gear combination for Trail use. To adapt the NP435 all you need to source is the T19 IDI Aluminum Belhousing, the T19 being loosley based off the T18 casting makes it a perfect match for the Transmission to Belhousing Bolt Pattern as the NP435 and T18 were used interchangably on the Ford Assembly lines in the 70s, also the Input Shaft splines and Bearing collar also happen to share with the IDI making it a great Transmission for adaption, the only concern is the input shaft is a little undersized on the NP435 as compared to the T19, but with this build we will be sending off the Input Shaft out to be Cryo Treated to give it some more strength to put up with the IDI's abuse. If you are not looking for the eztra low gear the 4wd T19 can be adapted in place of the NP435 and mated to the NP205 quite easily, same goes for the ZF5 for the most part, but extra fitting and trimming will be required at the crossmember for that swap, you will also need either a custom trans tunnel cover or perform at least a 2" body lift on your Truck/Bronco to swap to the ZF5 due to the extra height, I will cover this more at the end of this posting and for now focus on the 4 speed. All these measurments will not differ due to the transmission used.

Here is the NP435 still mated to the NP205 and with the T19 IDI Bell installed:

 

Before mounting the motor the first thing that you are going to want to do is cut your Motor Mount Base Plates, using 3/16" steel cut 2 large plates at 9"x5-3/4" (9"x5.75") and then 2 small plates at 9"x3-1/2" (9"x3.5"). These will serve as the base for both the Driver and Passenger Motor Mount plates.

You are going to want to place these plates on the frame and have the forward edge (always in Driver's perspective) of the plate measure at 24-1/2" (24.5" you get the picture) to the center of the top Bolt Hole for the bumper as pictured below, make sure to properly square the plates and leave yourself enough gap for a proper weld, in this case I photographed the top plate with torch marks still on it, you are going to want to clean this up to avoid air pockets in your bead, in this case i just took the photo with it.


















After welding each plate allow it to cool and remove it from the framerail, now you can stitch-weld the backside of the joint for a little extra insurance, after this clamp the mounts back into their original locations and be sure to reorient them to their forward edge at 24-1/2" to the upper Bumper Bolt center. Make sure the mount is tight to the frame on both plates as this step will involve some important drilling.

 

After properly clamping your plates to the frame and checking your 24-1/2" measurment you can start drilling out the frame holes in the Mount plates, drilling the plates from the outside of the Frame to the inside slowly with a good long Drill Bit you will have 6 holes on each mount in which to clamp the plates to the chassis. Be sure you drill the Shock Tower holes to the proper size as each shock tower has a larger lower bolt on the better majority of them. You can confirm this by looking at the holes drilled int the shock towers. After you have completed this make sure your coil buckets (if you have them of course) bolt up properly with the mounts bolted up.

 

Thank you, the Camera makes it look red but it's actually Orange, great "little "truck, it is a really good friend of mine's rig i built for him and his Wife, they love it.

 

Looks good bud

 

I'm liking this write up

 

Looks like it's going to be a sweet bronco!

 

Yeah I certainly want to see how this turns out. I'd love a diesel in my truck but don't want just another cummins so this'll be neat to see

 

x2


Stupid 10 character requirement...

 

Looking good. Subscribing for reference.

 

Could you make a quick parts and hardware reference for us please?

 

Sure thing, for now just the mounts as this is what I am focusing on for the time being and wiring and fuel depends on the direction you go.

Raw Material:
3/16" Flat Steel Stock
Scrap carboard

Tools:
Welder (in this case Mig/Arc with .030 wire and 75/25 gas)
Hand Grinder with Grinding a flap-disks for finishing and cutting wheel
Carpenter's Combination Square
Large Level (at least 36" long)
Small Magnetic Level
Magnetic Angle Finder
Paint Pen or Welder's chalk/scribe
Machinist Drill Bit Kit & Drill
Center Punch
Carpet/Razor Knife

Original Parts:
Engine mount plates
Motor Mounts (in this case everything is for a 83-94 P/U)
Chassis-Side Motor Mount Plates

 

So moving on from the Base plates, now that they are made you will need a Paint Pen or Welder's Chalk and a Square to mark out where the 2 top plate Bolts are going to go on your Motor Mount Plates. Start by first marking out the center of the thread-holes along the length of the Frame, make sure to mark along the Frame farther out than your Motor Mount Base Plate will cover so you can reference it later. After you make that mark press the Square against the outside of the frame and center the square to your holes again and your marks shoukd look just like below.










These were taken after this build on my 1978 F250 4x4 Frame being used for my Trail Trailer, somehow i never took photos of this important step.

 

Now that everything is marked and mocked up you can put the Motor Mount Base Plates back onto the chassid and lightly snug them up using their fastener (too tight and you will preload the plates), now using the marks from earlier use the Straight Edge on the Square to transfer the marks on the Chassis to the plates so you can drill the 2 holes for the top of the Plates. Use a center punch to mark the intersection of the lines and this will be your point to drill, drill slowly with a good 1/2" Machine Bit and after cleaning everything out/up tighted up all the fasteners (making sure all the fasteners are in) to keep the plates square while Welding later.

Now that you have tightened all the fasteners you need to move on to installing the new IDI Motor, this engine will be a bare Mock-up engine, you do not HAVE TO have the engine torn down to this point but in this case this 7.3L IDI will be used in a following 1979 F350 Chassis Cab swap, so it is bare and ready for the Machine Shop to be built, so it will make for a good mock-up example.








The NP435 has the T18 bell installed and I have the Chassis-side Motor Mounts from the donor Truck sitting on the side at the ready. After getting everything bolted up and secured you need to use the Angle Finder and level to place the IDI back at the same angle and level as the old engine was (in this case 8 degrees) make sure to double, and even triple check the level and angle and be sure the Chassis and Engine do not shift and are still level. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS SWAP.

In most cases with the Transmission and Transfercase mounts all bolted up properly the engine should already be pretty well centered in the chassis after you level it all out. But measure just to be 110% sure.