12/13 NOTE: Since the electrical component of this thread is not being addressed in replies, I'm splitting it out into a separate thread altogether.

I've had a shifter-related short on my instrument panel and stereo lights for close to two years now, and it finally got so bad I had to dig in and decided to proactively replace the shift tube while I was digging in. After all, the existing one had 290K miles on it. Although the lighting issue drove me to replace the shifter tube in hopes of finding a damaged wire, but this issue has now been moved to a separate thread HERE >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16789215. The remainder of this thread deals with my difficulty with the new hardware.

So, I compiled all the info I could find on replacing the shifter tube and did the replacement on Saturday (Dorman shifter tube kit from O-Reilly's). The Dorman kit was fine, mechanically, and the parts fit together well. I did, however, have to smooth out some burrs and sharp machining edges where the new nylon bushings go just to prevent premature wear on them from the sub par machining cleanup a the Dorman manufacturer. I also inspected all of the wiring harnesses and connectors carefully, but could not find any evidence of a shorted wire anywhere.

Results...
Shifter Movement: Overall, the shift movements are much more secure and smooth as butter, even though the shift arm itself still has slop in it where it gets pinned into the tube housing.

Now that it's all together, though, I can no longer shift down into 1st gear, and getting it into Park to release the key is tedious. I uninstalled and reinstalled the rear shifter bracket three times (the one which is typically related to not being able to get into Park and 1st). I carefully made sure that it was tight and completely flat against the rear of the shift tube each time. I just cannot tell why getting into Park is tougher than it used to be, nor can I find a physical barrier preventing it from getting it into the 1st gear position.

So here are my questions:

1. The steering column mounting flanges have some adjustment slop around the two rear mounting bolts, and the front two bolts also have minimal "adjustment" capability. Is ti possible that my entire shift positioning problem is due to not having the steering column physically mounted in the right alignment and that is restricting motion on the gear shift flex shaft?

2. If the answer to #1 above is "no", then what else do I need to be looking for to resolve this limited shifter movement?

3. There is a solenoid switch at the rear of the shift tube... is it possible that this is going out? I honestly do not suspect it because I have no trouble starting the truck when in Park, but I have not yet verified the effect of being in "R" on whether or not my backup lights come on.

4. What else am I missing here?


As always, thanks ahead of time for any and all input.

 

the solenoid on the lower of the column is strictly for the foot on brake to shift deal.
try adjusting the shift cable at the trans. whenever i do a shift tube i have to readjust the cable down bottom to get everything to work properly.

 

Thanks, Tom. I'll look at that as well.

When you do these jobs, how careful are you with the positioning of the steering column mounting flanges on your re-installs, Tom? Do you think misalignment "from original" at those points could be part of my situation?

 

careful? on jobs like this careful is usually not in my vocabulary because it is almost always a rush job!!
i drop the column enough to get the busted shift tube out, and stuff it back in as soon as done. then run the bolts back up with the electric impact.
i have only done one in the shop, all the rest were done on the side of the road in a parking lot.
then the final adjustments are a few days later in the shop once we get it off the road.

 

Thanks, Tom.

 

no problem. when you go to adjust the cable, look up your truck year on youtube to see how to release the clip. there are two types of clips. i use a dental pick to pop them loose, it makes it a lot easier to do than the little screwdriver they recommend to use.

as far as the "put in park and put a 5 lb weight on the shift handle"deal, i just chock the wheels, disconnect the shift cable at the trans, put the shifter in park, put the trans in park, and then put the cable in the clip where it wants to center itself and snap the clip. 99.99% of the time that is good. only one time i had to readjust it a hair.
then once i get the cable adjusted i will adjust the thumb wheel for the indicator if needed.

 

Thanks again, Tom. That's simple enough.