Brake Upgrade
#16
#17
I have consistently and successfully used Napa Ultra Premium rotors on both of my 2WD SuperDuty vehicles with no trouble (front and rear). I don't tow or haul, and stop carefully without putting myself into situations requiring aggressive stopping regimens (normally). No issues with either excessive wear, cementite, or "warpage".
I ran one set of cryo'd power slots up front on my truck only to find that one must have had a bad set of cryo or initial casting conditions because it wore badly with ridges (not grooves) on both surfaces, had granulated corrosion lines showing up on both inner and outer surfaces. The other one on the passenger side did fine. This was with Hawk pads.
Given the above two situations, for me, the cryo'd rotors are not worth the money and I'll stick with the Napa UP's. If I towed or hauled heavy, I might do otherwise, but I don't, and won't.
To address the OP's question about improving the SuperDuty braking system, I agree that the following items are helpful:
1. SS Braided lines.
2. Properly bedding the new brake pads, regardless of brand, but following each specific brands recommendation for the bedding in process which DOES differ from brand to brand.
3. Flush the entire brake system every two years with fresh fluid.
4. EBC or Hawk pads are reported good investments for those who tow/haul.
5. Inspect and lube your slide pins every 2-3 years on every caliper.
6. Once yearly, swap positions with your inner and outer pads on each caliper... the inners tend to wear faster, and this will reduce the likelihood of running your inner pads too low and eating your rotors.
I ran one set of cryo'd power slots up front on my truck only to find that one must have had a bad set of cryo or initial casting conditions because it wore badly with ridges (not grooves) on both surfaces, had granulated corrosion lines showing up on both inner and outer surfaces. The other one on the passenger side did fine. This was with Hawk pads.
Given the above two situations, for me, the cryo'd rotors are not worth the money and I'll stick with the Napa UP's. If I towed or hauled heavy, I might do otherwise, but I don't, and won't.
To address the OP's question about improving the SuperDuty braking system, I agree that the following items are helpful:
1. SS Braided lines.
2. Properly bedding the new brake pads, regardless of brand, but following each specific brands recommendation for the bedding in process which DOES differ from brand to brand.
3. Flush the entire brake system every two years with fresh fluid.
4. EBC or Hawk pads are reported good investments for those who tow/haul.
5. Inspect and lube your slide pins every 2-3 years on every caliper.
6. Once yearly, swap positions with your inner and outer pads on each caliper... the inners tend to wear faster, and this will reduce the likelihood of running your inner pads too low and eating your rotors.
#18
Thanks all, for the advice. I think I have some just maintenance items to do first, flush brake and hydro, before replacing rotors and new pads. I have never tested the runout before, so I will do that as well.
I will check into the cryo'd rotors.
I do not tow/ haul much and drive like grandpa
I will check into the cryo'd rotors.
I do not tow/ haul much and drive like grandpa
#19
#20
#21
This might work on some Merc's, but when my mechanic moved mine over to slotted (just in the front), I lost braking power (more foot pressure to get the same stopping power.). Next set is going back to solid. Point is that that they do not work best in all Merc's.
#22
These trucks, though the same, all have their quirks. Nothing more than Brakes IMO.
Not knocking the Power-Stops But, I had a customer the beginning of the summer following my retirement looking to save some money and bought the same system you describe for me to install. I "think" the receipt was something like $500
After a month of troubleshooting, I actually threw the Pads, Calipers, and Hardware in the Dumpster.
We reinstalled his Calipers, used the Power-Stop Rotors, and FoMoCo Pads and it was braking like a dream. What a nightmare.
Again, I have also heard good things about them as well. Perhaps just a bad set of calipers and pads.
Not knocking the Power-Stops But, I had a customer the beginning of the summer following my retirement looking to save some money and bought the same system you describe for me to install. I "think" the receipt was something like $500
After a month of troubleshooting, I actually threw the Pads, Calipers, and Hardware in the Dumpster.
We reinstalled his Calipers, used the Power-Stop Rotors, and FoMoCo Pads and it was braking like a dream. What a nightmare.
Again, I have also heard good things about them as well. Perhaps just a bad set of calipers and pads.
#25
Not sure of others, but Crown hoses are teflon lined and the claim is they will not degrade and weaken over time as rubber lines will. So potentially the last hoses you'll ever need.
#26
Glad I saw this thread -- I have the surging issue BAD in my rear disk brakes, and a couple days ago, the pedal went almost to the floor ... got a hole in one of my brake hyd lines.
My truck is a RUST MONSTER underneath from the snow/salt belt and I guess I should probably replace all the brake lines, along with the rear rotors (planning to use the Frozen Rotors and pads that so many here recommend) but I have a question:
How much of a nightmare is it to replace the fixed hydraulic lines in a 2001 F-250? A friend of mine said on some vehicles there's no way to fish the line through all the places it needs to go without practically pulling the cab off the truck, so you have to make lots of splices and bends, etc.
How much of a nightmare do I have to look forward to?
Thanks for any advice...
My truck is a RUST MONSTER underneath from the snow/salt belt and I guess I should probably replace all the brake lines, along with the rear rotors (planning to use the Frozen Rotors and pads that so many here recommend) but I have a question:
How much of a nightmare is it to replace the fixed hydraulic lines in a 2001 F-250? A friend of mine said on some vehicles there's no way to fish the line through all the places it needs to go without practically pulling the cab off the truck, so you have to make lots of splices and bends, etc.
How much of a nightmare do I have to look forward to?
Thanks for any advice...
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