I picked up a 76 f150 last week, the body is extremely strait, but the previous owner started sanding it to bare metal in preparation for paint. (or to clear it and do a patina pain job)


After it was all sanded, they lost interest in it and put it out in the field. The only areas that have any through rust is the floors. I can deal with that.
Currently all lights, emblems, door locks , Ect are removed from the truck.
I am in no hurry to get it fully painted, but I am trying to get it complete mechanically. Obviously I need door locks and lights. I had the thought to buy rustoleum etching primer from home depot, prep the metal behind these items, & give it a shot of primer. That way when im ready to start on the rest of the body, I don't have to completely disassemble again. Will the rustoleum interfere with a solvent based primer, later down the road?


I would like to reseal the seams at the roof and rain gutter and then prime as well. Should I just take a wire wheel to the old stuff and then find an acceptable replacement?

 

well, with the "modern" paints, compatibility is always a concern IMHO....for a temp, that is fine but when you get ready to do the 'real thing" then sand it all off and use 1 mfg's line for all products.

 

Some wannabe owners are just plain stupid.

 

I got the answers I was looking for by swinging by the local auto paint supply store. They said do NOT paint over oil base , with solvent. Going to start on the bed in the next week or so. The underside will be shot with a good coat of rustoleum after a thorough cleaning. The rest of the body will get a solvent base. All bare metal will either be sprayed with upol acid #8 and followed up with upol 2k or I will use a liquid etcher and use just the 2k.