I really appreciate all the help and input so far, thanks guys. I got the oil pan off and there is no evidence of cracks in the webbing so we are good to go. My engine has an oil cooler on is that is plumbed into the incoming coolant from the radiator. I'm not sure if I should keep it or pull it off. I'm just seeing it as a possible point of failure and cross contaminating oil and coolant. But if no one has ever heard of that happening and it would be beneficial to keep then I will.

Im on the fence of wether to change the timing chain and water pump while I have the engine apart. I didn't want to go to deep into it but Not sure... thoughts?

Thanks

 

It's got a double row roller timing chain, unless it's really loose, I'd leave it alone. This type lasts a long time. I would change the water pump while it's on the stand, it'll be a lot easier to deal with the longer bolts. These have a tendency to twist off due to corrosion between the bolts and the timing cover. Get a heat gun and heat the timing cover where the bolts pass through it while applying a small amount of torque to the bolts, if done right, you can get the bolts out without twisting them off. Get new bolts if the old ones are badly corroded, apply thread sealer (Teflon pipe thread paste works) and apply antiseize to the bolt shanks to keep them and the timing cover from corroding together.

 

200cc Intake runners is a bit large, 175's or 180cc at the most..

These heads are ideal and will serve you well..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-hp9008

Pedestal Mount 1.7 Roller Rockers are $335/set.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6564-a50

 

That's an Oil Cooler, leave it alone..

Replace the Oil Pump, Water Pump and the Timing Chain..

 

Yup I was going to be going with the 180cc. Thanks for the help I'll replace the water pump and oil pump. I had another person mention the timing chain should be fine and the engine only had about 57k miles. Should I still replace it regardless?

 

Absolutely..

 

I'd leave the timing set alone. 57K is just broke in. You'll gain nothing with a new set. As for the cooler, take it off and give it a thorough cleaning with spray carb cleaner to the insides. Let it dry, then repeat it. With the cooler on the engine, you can then use a oil filter for a 370 that is longer and holds another 1/2 quart of oil.

 

I would replace the timing chain also - cheap insurance.

 

I've read up on using the 370 oil filter that's longer. Some people say it can starve the engine of oil at startup?

 

How would it do that ? When I install it I fill it with oil before screwing it on, just as I do with any filter. After that it stays full of oil. Oil, like water will not run uphill without a pressure differential to move it.

 

Yea I wasn't sure how that would work either, but figured I would mention it if someone else seems to think so.

 

On the timing set, if you haven't gotten to the water pump yet, be open to replacing both. If you break enough bolts in a screwed up enough way, you'll be pulling the timing cover off anyway. That was a rough day for me.

 

Neat trick for broken bolts. Use dry ice on the bolts - they will shrink in the block then unscrew. Hopefully you will only need vise grips to unscrew it, if not slot the bolt use a screw driver. No need for heat or drilling.
Also check out the "Grabit" tool to remove bolts - works wonders. https://www.thegrabitstore.com/
Yes I have broken my fair share of bolts, mostly steel bolts into aluminum.

 

By applying heat to the timing cover where the bolts pass thru and a slow steady application of torque, the bolts should come loose without breaking them. Get rough with em and they'll break every time.