Is there any way to test/check wire connection to correct injector? I've swapped engines LIKE FOR LIKE ie same engine but haven't a clue as to witch connector goes to whitch injector. I'm hoping there is somekind ot tester or method to identify the connector to the injector? bl2009 Thankyou

 

They pretty much only fit on the correct injectors...try it

 

Harness wire color code versus injector number.
The wiring harness to each injector position has a red wire for 12 volts coming through the PCM Power Relay. The color code is for the 2nd wire, that is pulsed to ground by the PCM to fire that specific injector.

Injector # - Wire color code
1 - T
2 - W
3 - BR/Y
4 - BR/LB
5 - T/BK
6 - W/LB

You can use that as a check.

 

Thankyou ever so much. The color code is just what I was needing. I'll see what happens this weekend. Changing the engine has been nearly a six month project, with lots of interuptions. Maybe I'll be able to lite it up sooon. bl2009

 

Great! We'll be ready to catch any pistons falling from the sky over here

Hope it goes well!

 

Did you use another 97 engine or a later block?

 

Yes, it was a U-Pull-it engine out of same year and model of truck. I tried to start it tonite and am not getting any spark using a Lysle spark checker. and it won't run using starter fluid also. Easy Diagnosis says to use a HEI tester would there be a difference? I did have the front cover off and didn't check to see if the cam position sensor was lined up on 54 degrees, the Haynes book really didn't cover that very well. What's the proper way the see if I'm getting the correct spark or not? Oh yeah, I've got two different style coil blocks. I've tried them both with no fire. Both take the same power connector but the sockets where the wires go look different on the bottom. One is kind of cup shaped the other is more square bottomed. Should I be concerned about the wires that have the hold downs style going into them ? bl2009

 

First off use your original coil-it's known good. Second, as for the cam synchronizer, you must be at #1 TDC when installing it using the supplied tool. The 54 degree measurement is only to locate the electrical connector-it won't matter where it's pointed if the center is locked to the housing during install at TDC.

 

A Update:
When pull the cap off the cam positioner the little pointer thing was broken off and was stuck the base magnet. So I'm assuming it was bad. Swapped with the other CPS cap. And in the process of baring the engine around to the #1TC I found the crankshaft sensor wire was off and then found the dangling left over connecting ends ( I had no clue where those wire connectors went and the crankshaft sensor was Sooo buried under the engine that I never seen the connection. It and the knock sensor got hooked up and when I went to check for spark again the engine started (I wasn't expecting that to happen). Anyway after some assembly of the EGR vavle/tube and heater lines and top radiator hoses (just getting the hose clamps pointed so I could get a small socket or screwdriver on them was a real pain). Every thing is under or hide by another component. But FINALLY, I got to take the truck to town briefly. It's got a coolant leak somewhere around the thermostat neck to intake manifold connection. I'll deal with that tomorrow. I did the bar the engine to 26 deg. after TDC method, and the aligned the "C" edges with the middle of the slot and then used a volt meter hooked to the middle wire in the connector and moved the CPS until it just hit the 12 Volts and then tighten the clamp bolt down. It works if you can't find the "Alignment Tool". Sorry for being so long winded but wanted to explain how I finally got the engine to run. Thanks for responding and trying to help. bl2009