Okay I hope there are some 6.0 Powerstroke diesel experts out there.

Recently I
4 cylinders, then it stalls. Most of the time I can get it started but its a rough idle until it warms up.

After it warms up and has been driven for a short time it runs like new and starts perfect the rest of the day. Recently we dropped into the mid 30's here in NC and I couldn't get it to start until it warmed up to about 50 degrees, but it was still really hard to get it going and keep running. Again once I got it started and it warmed up I didn't have any trouble the rest of the day.

Not sure where to start. All normal maintenance is up to date, oil changes, filters, oil and fuel, even cleaned the EGR valve not too long ago but it wasn't even dirty. The truck only has 60,000 miles on it and has always been garage kept.

Any help is appreciated,

Jerry

 

Based on your symptoms, the first thing is going to be to test FICM voltage, here's a how-too guide for that.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
The FICM is the fuel injector control module, it converts the normal automotive 12-14V input to 48V output to run the coils inside the injectors that control oil pressure to actually push fuel into the cylinders. Low FICM voltage can be caused by the awesome cold weather tri-fecta of cold batteries, an undersized alternator and full glow plug draw, and can mean the injectors quite simply aren't getting enough power to fire. And it can be compounded by running 15W40 oil instead of 5W40 in the winter.

If you don't want to mess around with that procedure (it's a beating honestly), almost all OBDII gauges we recommend here will tell you FICM voltage through the computer port so you don't have to crawl around on a cold engine with a DVM. One of these is worth every penny and then some, the Torque Pro setup will save you more than the $30 it costs pretty quickly:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

One free trick test while you're waiting on the gauge to arrive is to take a heat gun or a hairdryer out with you in the morning and spend a couple minutes pointing it at the FICM to warm it up. DON'T overheat it, the goal is just to get it up to where it would be for something like a 60* cold start instead of a 0* cold start. If it starts better, that's definitely where to start.

Something every 6.0 owner should own is a battery load tester, I use an impedence tester like that has always been right when the batteries are truly done and won't hold a full charge. The batteries on a 6.0 can go down in a hurry, I'm talking starts fine today and tomorrow you only get a click kind of fast. A charger and a load tester will help you diagnose the batteries on your own:
https://www.amazon.com/BA5-100-1200-.../dp/B0017R5EQK

One of the members here put together some great videos explaining the electrical system of this engine, and what the actual power draws are during the phases of the starting cycle that can lead to this exact kind of FICM issue (if that's what it is once you start testing things). I'm not saying to do the upgrades he talks about right now, just watch his videos because they're really informative about what the power draws are, and how cold weather specifically impacts starting:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tery-life.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-grounds.html

 

Thanks for the fast reply and great tips!!!

 

Update. I measure the voltage from FICM and got 40V key on, 39V at buzz and 38V - 39V while running so I know I have an issue here.

I still have a question about all the fault codes I got before I checked the FICM. I understand all P codes for low circuit but I also has a bunch of strange codes.

P0269 - Cylinder #2 and 3 Injector circuit contribution / Balance fault
P0341 - Camshaft position censor circuit performance(bank1/or single sensor)
P2614 - Camshaft position output circuit/open
P2617 - Crankshaft positions sensor

With all these codes/issues you would think the truck wouldn't even run.

Can these all be related to the FICM

 

Yeah at 40V that sucker is done. The twp contributions codes are likely caused by the dying FICM. The cam and crank codes CAN be caused by the FICM or bad injectors, when the engine is running unevenly they can pop up. The FICM program can compensate for an injector not firing, but when a second stick starts dropping out it can't always compensate enough and has to pull back other injectors and you can get misfire codes. When misfire codes come up, CMP/CKP codes can follow.

You're correct that if there's not cam/crank sync or if the sensors themselves were bad, the truck wouldn't even start. So since it's running, get the FICM sent off and when it comes back clear all the codes, and odds are they won't pop again.

This is the best place to send the FICM to get it fixed, the two-year Premium upgrade service is awesome:
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
Service Levels

FICMrepair.com IS going to ask you to load test the batteries and bench test the alternator to keep the warranty coverage, so while the FICM is out of it start thinking about getting that done while the truck is down. It really sucks to take another hit on top of the FICM being down, but the root cause of this is not enough power from the alternator, so a larger alternator will help protect the fixed module. FICMrepair sells the two most popular upgraded alternator options right now, the LN 230A unit and the DC Power 185A unit. You can get a 140A unit from a local Autozone/Advance Auto, the 140A was a factory option and an upgrade from the base 110A unit, but still isn't enough. I have two dead 110A units and a dead 140A unit (all OEM) to back up my opinion that the stock units not being sized large enough. I run a DC Power 270 XP now.

 

Okay update after 2 more days of working on the 6.0....

So I decided to try DRQuad repair instructions from this forum of re-soldering the power side circuit board. I followed the process and put back in and got great voltage numbers, 46.4 injectors buzzing, 47.8 while running so I was ecstatic. The drove all day and it ran like new. The next day it fired right up but I had rough idle and it stumbled when I stepped on the gas again. I re-checked the FICM and the voltage was back to 32 Volts basically.

I had the batteries load tested and the 5 year old passenger was bad. It did crank a little slow so this wasn't a surprise. I bit the bullet and bought 2 new Motor Craft 850 CCA and replaced both batteries.

I removed the FICM and re-soldered it again. This time I got 46.4 at injectors buzzing and 47.1 while running. Again it ran great for a while then later today its back to no power and stumbles when you step on the gas but it does start pretty easy.

I'm sure if I check the FICM the voltage will be low again .

While running the batteries are at about 14 volts so I assume the alternator is doing its job.

Not sure where to go from here. I'm afraid the buy a half shell FICM or whole brand new one because I'm not sure whats failing it. The only code I get is the low injector circuit that I'm sure comes back after the FICM falls to low voltage.

 

Well since you messed around with it there will be an extra $50 charge, but the best option is still this:
Service Levels
The FICM died, it happens. Heat, vibration, bad potting when it was made, the .01% bad component that slipped through, plain bad luck, there's no use wondering what caused it because it's such a common problem there are multiple companies that started just to fix this exact issue.

If you want to listen to the man himself, ask him a question directly via message or call their shop. He's the kind of guy that will spend an hour on the phone with you answering questions, he did it for me about an alternator:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=540090

 

These guys are pointing you in the right direction. I would also recommend spending more time in the 6.0 liter section. Here's a link to the main page. 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thanks All

 

What Bryan said!

There are other parts that die inside the FICM too. Best to just bite the bullet and have FICMRepair rework it for you. If you can't be down for long he's got an exchange program as well. Never have to worry about it again.

Plus running those low voltages you start risking damage to injectors so the cost can get up there really quick if you don't address it properly.

 

Hey Guys,

Just an update and but yet another question for you experts. So I got the FICM fixed and re-installed the new one. The truck fired right up and I've been driving the truck for a couple days now. For me the truck seems to be running great and better than ever!

So I decided to check for any new codes and the P0299 Turbo Under boost code kicked out.

Driving it for two days I don't notice anything and when I go to pass someone on the expressway the turbo kicks in right away and I get about 30 pounds of boost which is more than I have had in the past. Seems fine.

The truck only has 60k on it so my next step is going to be remove the turbo to clean and inspect it and see what happens.

My question is: If I continue to run the truck with low boost am I damaging any part of the engine long term?

I can't keep dumping money into it right now, seems like everything is going at once.

 

Glad you got the FICM fixed

It's not really "low boost" pressure per se, it means the PCM isn't seeing the pressure output desired for the commanded VGT. (yeah, that's gibberish, hang on). You're doing the right thing cleaning it, hopefully it's just carbon from the fueling issue and you can clean it out.

You are most likely fine to keep driving it normally. There are two main risks, and one is paradoxical.

The first is that boost being lower than desired at different points along the VGT mapping can cause higher EGTs. If you aren't tuned there should be more than enough head room to not damage anything, but I wouldn't run a tuner or tow anything excessively heavy until it's resolved. I normally cruise around 600*f on the EGT gauge, and 1250*f sustained inlet temp is fine for the turbo. So if you're running an extra 200-300*, no big deal, it's just that the gauge isn't a factory option so the majority of people can't see this to confirm. That's why I say the precaution of not using tuning and definitely not towing while tuned, those can eat up the head room and put you closer to going over, and you have no way of seeing that. So not a real concern for damaging anything, just a lack of information making being cautious smart.

The second paradoxical problem is that since low boost is indicative of a stuck vanes on the unison ring (fixing that is the point of the cleaning you're going to do), that OVER-boost becomes a concern depending on where the vanes are stuck. There would be an overboost code set if they were stuck to cause this full-time, but the concern is that "once is enough" to stretch a head bolt if you accidentally feed the engine 40psi at some point, like a downshift while loaded and the VGT can't move (or move enough) to adjust for the higher airflow. So watch the gauge, it SHOULD be limited to 28psi in a factory tune, and you should have to work to get it up there ie passing someone and hammering the pedal. Just driving normally it's not a huge concern, but again I'd hold back on tuning or towing something that would cause peak boost for longer than passing/starting at a light.

 

Wow! Great detailed information! Thanks so much Bryan for taking the time to go through this for me. I've been working on car's since I was 15 years old but I am NOT a diesel guy. I bought this truck new in 2005 and now it needs some TLC it appears.

Thanks again,

Jerry

 

Read this thread about your problem and had a thought. I had an '04 6.0 and the FICM started going out. On a Sunday night before MLK day on Monday I had to go out and start that sucker about every 3 hours so I could get it to the shop on Monday. Got it to the shop, FICM replaced. Ran and started great! Then that 0299 turbo code kicked in. I cleared it and kept driving it but indeed it kept coming back. Traded it in for my current ride in July. Just wondering if replacing the FICM in a 6.0 leads to turbo problems, or do they just start going bad at the same time? Just wanted to share. Never serviced the turbo on my 6.0. It had about 115,000 on it when all this started.

 

Turbo problems are not related to FICM issues, though bad FICMs can throw a myriad of codes seemingly unrelated to the FICM, P0299 being one of them. The upshot is that if someone has FICM issues, and they have other issues, there is logic in taking care of the FICM to see what remains before just throwing money at things.