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2001 E-350 7.3 SD Cranks, idles good, runs 1/2 power, then at 45mph major turbo boost and runs BAD!

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Old 11-26-2016, 12:32 PM
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2001 E-350 7.3 SD Cranks, idles good, runs 1/2 power, then at 45mph major turbo boost and runs BAD!

Hello all, I might be on the wrong forum and my apologies if so, but I'm getting extremly delirious with my work van, and its issues. It is an 2001 E-350 SD w/ a 7.3 PS it has 194k miles. I recently changed the fuel tank and removed the screens from the sending unit, I put an inline (marine grade) fuel/water seperator between the tank and the new fuel pump on the DS frame rail, also changed the fuel filter in the fuel bowl. I changed the oil and drained the HPOP, and refilled w/ a new filter, 15W40 Rotella.

1st symtom a month ago was missing at idle and sluggish w/ initial accellartion. No CEL, no codes. However Snap On scanner showed loss of fuel pressure on high side of system. At idle the FP was 690psi to 720psi and when the skip would occur it would drop to 655psi to 660psi. At that time we ruled out UVC b/c it seemed more FP issue. Initially I ordered a new IDM for the van after reading hundreds of threads on this issue but later ruled that out as well and never installed it. The problem came about when my area was hit by hurricane Matthew, I did have to drive thru some high water areas, after taking out the IDM and inspecting it I noted no water infiltration and just kept it as a spare.

2nd symtom, after noticing the ICP was bad due to oil seeping thru it, I changed it with a BWD ICP202, replaced the ICP pigtail with a Dorman, soildered connections and shrink tubed them, and wrapped in electrical tape and then in the pvc flex tubing, the idle miss went away and at first glance problem solved. Crank, idle went up from 690 rpm to 900 rpm, run fine but it seemed like the turbo was out and not working, then at 45 mph getting ready to switch to OD major boost would occur and van would go from 45 to 75 mph, accellarator was extremely sensitive, lil effort applied and she was wide open! When slowing down she was taching 1298 rpm with no accellarator, also engine sounded awful. I changed the CPS the following day w/ F7TZ-12K073-B, again problem solved, crank, idel good and at 690, run and drive fine, no boost issues at any range, the next day same thing, next day night 45mph and boost, running bad again, CEL is on, cut off recrank CEL , is on then goes off after a couple of min, runs like turbo isnt working and when the boost occurs the CEL comes on. Since this new symptom didn' t originate til I replaced the ICP, and after reading some bad reviews on the BWD ICP for the 7.3, I ordered a new Motorcraft ICP for the engine and it should be here today. I haven' t taken it to find out what the new code is due to the high taching at idle when the boost error happens.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!!
 
  #2  
Old 11-27-2016, 07:29 AM
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Non-OEM sensors/controls in the truck frequently lead to all new symptoms to solve, so you're on the right track to replace that ICP with OEM.

ICP is not fuel pressure per se. It is the fuel driving pressure in the injector, but ICP is oil pressure on the high side and doesn't get burned. There is no sensor for fuel pressure on the truck, so you won't find any codes for this, nor any OBDII scanners telling you about the fuel pressure status.

The only way to know if your fuel pump is delivering the goods is to get a gauge and install it - either temporarily or permanently. I chose permanent with an ISSPRO EV2 from Riffraff Diesel, to go along with my EGT gauges - which the truck has no sensor for that either.

You say you installed a fuel/water separator filter during your fuel tank repair. If you installed that before the pump, it doesn't take much to flat kill your real fuel pressure - I have that tee shirt... with piping... and a badge... it's been steampunk'd.

The truck has a fuel/water separator and a filter, if you buy OEM fuel filters - so you're doubling your efforts. This would be akin to washing the dishes by hand before putting them in the dishwasher. I use a pre-pump strainer to keep debris from plugging the fuel pump intake - that's more akin to hitting the dishes with the sprayer before putting them in the dishwasher.





You have a van, which had a steel tank - and the coating in the tank sloughs off. Were you able to blow the fuel lines clear of the old crud? Which fuel pump did you install on the rail? I went with the OEM Bosch. You really need a fuel pressure gauge in a bad way.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:45 AM
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Thats basically the same setup I have installed, as far as the pump its an OEM Bosch. I' ll post the codes once I get it running again, while changing the IPC (I really don' t know how this happened) the return line male compression nipple on the drivers side upper part of the fuel bowl snapped off, the fuels lines prolly need changing and thats no big deal but does anyone know the part # for that aluminum nipple? I cant find it anywhere being listed as a replaceable part, and would hate to have to buy a new bowl just for that 1 peice.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:21 AM
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The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is notorious for snapping off like that. You can get a replacement at Ford but they make sturdy billet ones so it never happens again.
 
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