I'm new here. Greetings.

Thanks in advance for any help, and I will post follow-ups and solutions.

I bought a 1989 E250 Club Wagon, 7.3 diesel this summer. It wasn't running at the time. I put in an alternator, push-button start (temporary or permanent work-around ignition), a steering gear box, thermostat, glow plug relay, and one (of two) new batteries. I have it running, usually.

Problem:

I would let the glow plugs warm, wts light goes off, I hold the push-button and press accelerator pedal to turn the engine over and here's what I noticed:

- On a cold start, it starts right up (turns over), then QUICKLY putters out ..nearly every time, same thing. After the 'putter out,' it takes at least a 20 count of cranking, then a pause, then another lengthy crank to USUALLY get it to turn over. Then it runs fine. This is in 50 - 80+ F weather.

- On a warm start, it starts right up (turns over), quickly and easily. No 'putter out.'

SO, I checked to see what glow plugs the PO had in. They were Champions. From what I read and heard, I figured this HAD to be the problem..I heard ZD9's were crucial. Recently, I ordered the ZD9 glow plugs and replaced all 8 Champions with ZD9's.

I was excited and nearly certain this would be resolved, but nope.

Even with the ZD9's in, I have the same problem.

On a cold start, I get the real quick turn-over after the wts light goes off, then the QUICK 'putter out' of the engine. Then I re-warm plugs, crank-crank-crank for a 20+ count, foot all the way down on the accelerator - no turn-over.

Now, after doing this for some time, I usually loose battery power and have to jump it to start (after the 20 count of cranks, it usually takes about 15-25 more cranks to turn over with the jump).

The engine runs well and strong, always, after this process. It's just dying out on my first try, every time, as described.

I really want to fix this and have my van running reliably. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

You have air intrusion and possibly a bad lift pump. Have you replaced the return lines?
For ease of diagnosis, in standard terminology turn-over is the starter turning the engine, engine turning without the aid of the starter is running.

 

...I think I deleted my reply a few minutes ago when I hit "post reply" instead of "post quick reply" below. Here it is:

Thanks Jared (Ford Six). Got it. On first attempt, my starter turns the engine, then it runs momentarily, before quickly stopping. On second, maybe third, attempt, the starter works very hard, turning my engine, until it (engine) usually runs (or battery drains).

I did notice a very small amount of bubbling where one of the fuel lines enters/exits a cylinder. Could this be the source of my air intrusion?

I haven't replaced the return lines. I'm willing to do it though. Do you think they are clogged/partially blocked? Or are you asking if I replaced them, and maybe caused an air leak when doing so? The PO seemed to have been working 'overtime' on this, lol, so he may have replaced the lines (no disrespect, I probably am too).

I will also look into diagnosing and replacing the lift pump. I learn a lot with every problem-solution and vehicle. I'm piecing my knowledge together.

Thanks again Jared (Ford Six). I appreciate your advice!

 

No problem. The little cloth covered rubber lines that run between the injectors are the return lines. Over time, these lines and the o-rings under the plastic caps dry out and crack. Fuel leaks out and air gets in. A tired fuel pump will let fuel drain back past it, so the fuel in the filter will end up replaced with air. The injection pump has a very small internal reserve of fuel, so the engine will start but then die once that air gets to the pump. Then you have to crank forever to push that air through the injectors.
Is it bubbling where the injector threads into the head, where the injection line meets the injector, or from the plastic cap the return line plug into?

 

welcome to FTE. as Jared already said, you have the classic symptoms of air intrusion.
get a return line kit and put it on, and your issues will go away.

a hint: put a lite coat of lithium axle grease on the o-rings and under the caps before putting together. the grease prevents the o-rings from ripping, makes everything slide together easily, and helps seal the o-rings to the caps.




Jared, did you see the new billet return rail Justin started selling? it is a sweet setup!!

 

Thanks again Jared (Ford_Six). And TJC Transport, thanks for jumping in with the tip too.

The explanation makes perfect sense. I'm already feeling better just knowing what's going on!

I had some minor electrical issues with my daily driver, took today and fixed those.

Due to my work schedule, I may not get some real time with the van until next weekend, though I'm going to try for sooner.

Honestly, when I saw the bubbles, I thought it was unrelated to what I was working on, figured I saw one more problem (was a little frustrated), and decided I'd look into it after getting this issue resolved, smh. Good news is, at least they may be connected.

I'll get back with exactly where the fuel bubbles are and with updates asap. Honestly, just might be next weekend.

Thanks again. I don't want to belabor the point, but I'm truly grateful.

Enjoy the weekend.

 

Yes. Almost trashed my laptop with drool too. If my F250's engine was pretty it'd get them. No point on my van though.

Both idiperformance.com and typ4 on here have return line kits, many of the online ones do not include the olives for the feed line.

 

Also check fuel lines from the tank. If rusty they can let air into system causing fuel to drain back to,tank. I had a 93 7.3 until we got our 15 and had this,problem