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Optima battery finally going bad?

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  #16  
Old 11-21-2016, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
also check belt tension on alternator.....often old belts will slip under charge load while the alternator resistance builds up during after start-recharge.

what the idle time....most alternators do not kick into charge mode until you hit X rpms which is usally above idel RPMs.
Your alternator showing 14.2 VoLts shows its working properly. A battery showing only 12.3 v or so when static is showing its age and probably isn't long for the hard winters.

Remember, only 1wire alternators need to be "excited" to start charging, usually ramping up rpms over 2k or so.
Most all newer vehicles have 3 wire alternators and one of the three wires is used to excite the alternator at start up, eliminating the need to rev the engine.
 
  #17  
Old 11-21-2016, 08:20 PM
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I have a brand new idler pulley and tensioner from Ford along with a 1" shorter belt from dayco (failed attempt to fix my belt squeak during shifts)
 
  #18  
Old 11-21-2016, 08:22 PM
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Had the battery load tested and it checked out fine, was all over today picking up house part's stopping at my cousins house for a while and truck is starting and running as normal. I'll let it go till something quits completely, no use in fixing something that's not broke right
 
  #19  
Old 11-21-2016, 08:32 PM
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try a Goodyear gator back belt. stopped my sqeak.
 
  #20  
Old 11-21-2016, 08:40 PM
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I had a stock length gator back on before the 1" shorter dayco and it didn't help at all
 
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:45 PM
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Well the shift kit is working. lol.
 
  #22  
Old 11-22-2016, 08:59 AM
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Lol yea after pulling the trans and having it gone through its back to normal. Funny thing is my brother has a bone stock 2001 f150 that squeaks during the 1-2 shift and my father in law has a 2002 f150 super crew and his truck does it during 1-2 and 2-3 just like my truck. From what I've found online this is common problem for ford's from pickups to crown vic with the mod motors
 
  #23  
Old 11-22-2016, 09:42 AM
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Most parts houses have a hand held tester that can test the battery, alternator, and starter in the car.

I'd have them test the current draw while starting and compare to the specs.

Checking the starter wire would be prudent as well. I've had to replace a few starter wires over the years. They can corrode internally and cause hard starts, particularly after a heat soak. Can be tricky to find because they will check good with VOM at ultra low current, but have too much resistance for the high loads of the starter.

A Bad starter wire should show up as a very large voltage drop across the wire when starting, which is admittedly hard to do without two people. Symptomatically, it sounds the same as a dead battery, though.
 
  #24  
Old 02-08-2017, 05:36 PM
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Since my first post I've had zero issues with my truck, it's been in the thirties back to forties down to twenties with heavy winds and again no problem what so ever. Last night it warmed up to the low fifties, this morning when I left the house it was FIFTY FOUR DEGREES and the truck wouldn't start!! Turn key forward and the dash flickered and you hear clicking , take key out and try again and same result. Get out and check battery all is normal, go and try again BUT I turn the headlight switch from Auto to OFF and then the truck fired right up lie normal? It started four more times today normal after that so what could be wrong?
 
  #25  
Old 02-08-2017, 05:51 PM
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Maybe the Ignition switch is worn out.
 
  #26  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:25 PM
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Ok truck has been sitting since 530 when I got home, just went to bring my son to his basketball game and guess what same thing CLICKING and BLINKING dash.... headlights were in off position and my prodigy brake controller is unplugged. I also disconnected the underwood light because that stays on all the time. So I guess tomorrow I'll stop and get stuff checked at advanced auto. I'll put the battery tender on tonight just in case
 
  #27  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by meborder
Most parts houses have a hand held tester that can test the battery, alternator, and starter in the car.

I'd have them test the current draw while starting and compare to the specs.

Checking the starter wire would be prudent as well. I've had to replace a few starter wires over the years. They can corrode internally and cause hard starts, particularly after a heat soak. Can be tricky to find because they will check good with VOM at ultra low current, but have too much resistance for the high loads of the starter.

A Bad starter wire should show up as a very large voltage drop across the wire when starting, which is admittedly hard to do without two people. Symptomatically, it sounds the same as a dead battery, though.
I had the same problem with my last truck. The wire was full of green corrosion. I replaced it and the truck started right up.
 
  #28  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by meborder
Most parts houses have a hand held tester that can test the battery, alternator, and starter in the car.

I'd have them test the current draw while starting and compare to the specs.

Checking the starter wire would be prudent as well. I've had to replace a few starter wires over the years. They can corrode internally and cause hard starts, particularly after a heat soak. Can be tricky to find because they will check good with VOM at ultra low current, but have too much resistance for the high loads of the starter.

A Bad starter wire should show up as a very large voltage drop across the wire when starting, which is admittedly hard to do without two people. Symptomatically, it sounds the same as a dead battery, though.
I had the same problem with my last truck. The wire was full of green corrosion. I replaced it and the truck started right up.
 
  #29  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:50 PM
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Yeah - sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Check that everything's tight snd clean. Something may have worked loose
 
  #30  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:52 PM
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Just left my son's game and the truck started right up with no problems. Just got home and I checked the battery and starter again, everything is tight and clean (from what is exposed) the negative cable has a little battery acid crust around it which is odd because a optima shouldn't do that? I hooked my battery tender up just incase....We're suppose to get 14" of snow tonight
 


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