Headlight assembly recommendation
#1
Headlight assembly recommendation
Does any have a recommendation for a particular brand of headlight assembly? Or recommendations for which brands to avoid? I came over the pass in heavy rain about two weeks ago and visibility wasn't the greatest. Headlights are milky in appearance so it's time (probably well past time, actually).
#2
#3
I just replaced mine with a new pair from https://www.am-autoparts.com/
Inexpensive, complete, and free shipping. Too much expense and work to try and revive the dead lenses.
Inexpensive, complete, and free shipping. Too much expense and work to try and revive the dead lenses.
#4
Jose, is this the item you used?
1992-1997 Ford Aerostar Headlight with Chrome Trim Pair AM-36604912
https://www.am-autoparts.com/product...912.html?m=206
What exactly is it? Does it replace the plastic lenses with glass bulbs?
1992-1997 Ford Aerostar Headlight with Chrome Trim Pair AM-36604912
https://www.am-autoparts.com/product...912.html?m=206
What exactly is it? Does it replace the plastic lenses with glass bulbs?
#6
Biggest upgrade for my sealed beam setup was replacing the wiring harness with a much heavier gauge aftermarket harness that wires directly to the battery (original wiring is known to melt, mine had almost started to), and then going to Sylvania Xtravision bulbs, which are available for sealed and non-sealed beams. The lights are very bright and very white.
#7
Jose, is this the item you used?
1992-1997 Ford Aerostar Headlight with Chrome Trim Pair AM-36604912
https://www.am-autoparts.com/product...912.html?m=206
What exactly is it? Does it replace the plastic lenses with glass bulbs?
1992-1997 Ford Aerostar Headlight with Chrome Trim Pair AM-36604912
https://www.am-autoparts.com/product...912.html?m=206
What exactly is it? Does it replace the plastic lenses with glass bulbs?
yes, I ordered the pair, you get everything including new plastic buckets and standard glass bulbs, well at least that's how mine came. I did not use the buckets and I don't know what they mean by "chromed trim", I got the entire assemblies but with plastic lenses, unyellowed. Ford stopped making them in glass after 1989 as far as I know because they went to the larger headlamps in plastic.
My 1986 used smaller glass headlamps but with a larger surround.
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#8
Aerostar went to plastic headlights in '92 with the facelift (and got the swoopy dash at the same time).
I converted my '93 back to glass sealed beams.
I haven't converted my '97 to glass yet; the lenses are still pretty good.
I converted my '93 back to glass sealed beams.
I haven't converted my '97 to glass yet; the lenses are still pretty good.
#11
In addition, install the Euro-spec H4 headlights in the 200mm rectangular size (H6054 replacement). They will provide better light pattern, and you have the option of installing higher powered bulbs. Installing relays to power them is highly advisable.
#12
#13
Same pic as before except relays shown, part of my electrical mod thread from long ago.
The E-spec is a very current/recent swap and I just now had it out in the late evening.
Nice.
Even better than sealed beam and probably the exact opposite of the cloudy 92+.
But with every improvement, you get a little more picky.
Because E-spec is so distinct, it now makes good sense to fuss over the aiming.
Aiming is a bit of a conundrum in a lightly sprung cargo vehicle that can change pitch with load.
The E-spec is a very current/recent swap and I just now had it out in the late evening.
Nice.
Even better than sealed beam and probably the exact opposite of the cloudy 92+.
But with every improvement, you get a little more picky.
Because E-spec is so distinct, it now makes good sense to fuss over the aiming.
Aiming is a bit of a conundrum in a lightly sprung cargo vehicle that can change pitch with load.
#14
I installed air shocks in 2012, which gives me some small control over rear squat, though not a lot. They still work fine. I have to hit the compressor button for three seconds every morning to bring the pressure up to 30 PSI or so (the shocks' mfgr recommends 25 PSI minimum to prevent damage to the shocks). I didn't really expect them to last this long, but they have.
I suppose I should gather the parts to convert this '97 to sealed beam, like I did the '93 in 2007.
I suppose I should gather the parts to convert this '97 to sealed beam, like I did the '93 in 2007.
#15
I consider headlights safety equipment. You got to be able to see well when driving, especially at night. So there should be no compromise on it. The stock lights are barely adequate even WITHOUT the foggy lenses, and become downright dangerous when the lenses turn translucent.
It does need to be balanced. It has to have a good pattern and properly aimed so it does not cause glare for drivers in front of you. It can not be too bright, again, to not glare drivers ahead of you, and such that it makes you completely blind to regions outside of its illumination pattern.
Rojostar: Your lights look like mine, which are Bosch H4 E-spec.
Al, If you van is wallowing, it's more likely you need stiffer dampers (shocks). I used to have Monroe's Sensatrac, but they were not every effective. A bump from the road would cause bounces that take a few cycles to damp out. Since I replaced them with KYB Gas-A-just, the bounce from the same bump at the same speed would usually be damped in less than 2 cycles. They do feel stiff, though.
It does need to be balanced. It has to have a good pattern and properly aimed so it does not cause glare for drivers in front of you. It can not be too bright, again, to not glare drivers ahead of you, and such that it makes you completely blind to regions outside of its illumination pattern.
Rojostar: Your lights look like mine, which are Bosch H4 E-spec.
Al, If you van is wallowing, it's more likely you need stiffer dampers (shocks). I used to have Monroe's Sensatrac, but they were not every effective. A bump from the road would cause bounces that take a few cycles to damp out. Since I replaced them with KYB Gas-A-just, the bounce from the same bump at the same speed would usually be damped in less than 2 cycles. They do feel stiff, though.