I everyone, long time lurker and finally a basic member.

I picked up a 1978 F250, custom. 351m with 68K original miles. It's basically sun baked so there isn't much paint left and the body is about 90% rust free.

My main goal with this is to ask some of you who have done this before how you would go about this, any tips or suggestions?


Thanks,
Don

 

Start with basic tuneup...plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, fluids, filters. Get it roadworthy first and worry about the looks later. Being mostly rust free sounds like you have a great start.

Paint is pricey, and gets more pricey the nicer of a job you want done on it so start saving now. Paint prep is cumbersome but easy and can save you some money doing it yourself. Depending on where you're rust is, you may want to take care of it now even if you don't plan on paint for a while.

I find restorations are easiest to do in stages, but I always doing rolling restorations where I continue driving it and take it out of service for short stints to do different systems. For instance, right now I have it off the road for a couple of weeks to do all things cooling....water pump, heater core, fan and motor, thermostat, etc.

Again, do the things that make it roadworthy first. After the tuneup I'd focus on brakes, steering, and then suspension. Engine as well if you're having any problems. I do the looks stuff last, I probably won't get my '79 painted for another couple of years still. The only looks thing I might do soon is wheels, my tires are crappy and I don't want to buy new 16.5" tires, they suck.

 

Welcome to FTE. Lots of good people here.

Agree 100% on getting the safety issues done first. If she hasn't run for a while, brakes first are an imperative. They can be be a pain at times and also time consuming to do right.

Back in the day, stopping played second fiddle to going. These days it's a bit different.

Brakes, tires, any safety issues...lights, etc, engine squared away, drivetrain and outside looks last.

Congrats on the nice find.

 

X2 on get it into 3S status. Start Stop Steer. Mechanically good ='s reliability. Here is a great link for the restoration.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...p-by-step.html

And a ton more great advice. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14955940

 

Yes, welcome to FTE. Do you have any pics? That would help for suggestions on moving forward. That is really low mileage!

 

I'm not very far ahead of you and on the same track as outlined above. Excellent advice by starting with safety items. If the truck has been sitting and sun baking, any rubber lines like brakes, fuel, and coolant hoses should be on the very short list as they get brittle and crack. They're usually cheap and easy insurance. This also gives you time to get to know your truck and think about what and how to stage your resto.

I also favor rolling restorations, and with garage space you can gather up parts in advance while your truck still works. I'm building a full engine-to-rear end, headers and accessories, even a compact exhaust in my garage while mine still runs fine, for example. Same would apply to a cooling system, front end, whatever. When it's all ready, your only down for a few days or a week. Easier on the wallet too if you have the patience. Even if you have an unexpected failure along the way, you aren't stuck with a huge sudden expense that forces you to go cheap. Not many can afford a full frame-off, so pieces and sections are what us mere mortals are stuck with.

 

I also run a '78 F250... and handle as rolling restoration.

Agree with all the comments about covering the basics first. Steering and brakes at top of the list followed by tuneup and other basic maintenance.

Fuel system and cooling system next. Fuel system deserves special comment.

The fuel system on these trucks is simple and robust. At the same time, if not in good shape it can be a PITA and strand you on the road. Old steel tanks often have rust and other crud that can plug things up. Replacement tanks are readily available and not too expensive if yours is nasty. Also every inch of rubber fuel line between tank and carb should be replaced. Soft or cracked rubber fuel lines can shut you right down.

Good luck and please post some pics!