Hey guys, I want rear disk brakes. I don't want to put super duty axles under my truck. I have too much money invested in my old D60 swap, rims/tires to go back now. Plus I think it's cool to stay 8 on 6.5.

1990 Ford F-350 Brake Upgrade - Them?s The Brakes

After reading this article it's got me very interested in doing this swap in the quest for real rear disk brakes. They didn't cover anything about ABS and I'm wondering how Chevy did it in the van it came from. And how to hook it up on my '97.

That's the only downside I see in this swap is figuring the ABS out. It's a 10.5" ring gear, 35-spline Dana axle with real disk brakes with good parking brakes. And come 4:10. If there is no ABS provision my only real concern is how well it will do in the snow.

 

What's the vehicle (the only thing in your profile is a '67 F100)?

Does this Dana axle/diff have a tone ring and a speed sensor? That's all the stock Sterling axle has for ABS. If the tone ring / VSS work the same as on the Dana, then the RABS won't know the difference and SHOULD work. If there isn't a tone ring / VSS, then you won't have a working speedometer/odometer. If that's the case, and the truck has an automatic transmission, you're doubly screwed, because the PCM won't have a speed input to control the transmission.

 

97 CCSB E4OD. I searched and there is a tone ring available for D70. Not sure if it's the same for D70 HD or not...

 

Check for an e250-e350 axle from 99? And up they have the 8x6.5 and have disc brakes, we had a theme about this some time back, not sure if its a bolt on ordeal but worth a shot.

 

I saw a write up on a Econoline D60 disk brake install someone else did and it looked way too involved. Those brakes aren't very big either...

 

Or you can just get a SD 10.5 and take the hubs to a machine shop to have them re-drilled to 8x6.5". This has been done before and 2 different ways. First is to drill the 'new' pattern between the current holes. The other way I've seen it done is to re-drill the 8x170mm holes to 8x6.5 by going to a larger diameter hole then custom machining a stud to fit in that hole.

 

Thanks for the heads up. So this is best done on a 99-04 axle, correct? What about the overall width? Do you know how much wider they are? I know the front D60 is a lil wider than the rear so I know a little bit wider in the rear is good/acceptable. I dont want it to be too wide and my rear wheels stick out too far. Thanks

 

From what I understand, the 99-04 axles are the same width; 05+ are ~4" wider. Here's 28 pages for you to read... 10.5 SuperDuty Rear Hubs to 8 on 6.5 - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Thanks for the linky. After 28 pages and 274 replies no one still said where to get those special studs.

On another note, it's almost 2017 I still cannot believe that the disk brake swap isn't on everyone's top 10 list of mods to do to their OBS. Along with a tried and true parts list and pictures sticky'd up top. I guess drums are fine with 235/85 tires but put some real tires on and tow a trailer without brakes and my truck brakes suck *****.

From what I just read through the SD axle still requires: changing of pinion flange, machining of the hubs, shock mounts relocated, spring perches 1/2" higher/too wide, and these infamous special lug studs.

From what I have read on the Dana Super 70 swap needs: front flange swap, relocate spring perches, and the tone ring being the hardest to try to figure out.

They sell tone ring for D70, not sure of teeth count though. If the teeth count is off from the Sterling how will that affect the speedo/abs, if any? I have no problem tapping a hole into the axle for the VSS if that's need be. Sounds easier than dealing with the SD hub ordeal.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-6-5-a.html hope this one helps.

 

There's a reason big trucks still use drums. A properly setup drum system is just as good a disk. With towing heavy I'll take drums over disk any day.

 

It would affect the speedo by whatever the difference is in the tooth/notch count. For example, if the Sterling tone ring has, say, 100 notches and the Dana tone ring has 110, the speedo will read 10% too high at all times. ABS will probably be fine; AFAIK, it just backs off brake pressure when it sees ZERO movement (lock). The bigger concern is the tranny. The PCM will think you're going whatever speed the speedo says. If it's way different, esp. if you throw in non-standard tire size, it'll throw off shift points. I suppose you could compensate by recalibrating the PSOM, but you'd be on your own for the math to enter the right multiplier.

 

Thanks. In post #79, I don't really like the idea of using those threaded studs. Even with a thin nut on the back it just seems like a last resort.


Drums are heavy, primitive design (since cars first were invented), suck when wet, hard to work on. These are the main reasons I am switching. Not to mention having to adjust them often to "maximize" what our OBS has given us. The stopping capability is still very debatable. Seems all 3/4+ ton manufactures phased out all drums in the late 90's. That says a lot, to me. To each his own! Drums make awesome parking brakes though...

I will have good disks on the rear of my OBS or I will sell the f'n thing before I give up. I'll be the test dummy on the D70 and tone ring if I have to and I'll be sure to post exactly how I did it to help others unlike other members who like to dangle carrots for whatever weak reasoning.

 

Thanks for the input. Me and math are not friends. Another reason why I want to ZF6 swap my truck. hmmmmm

 

Sounds like you are dead set on discs, but something to consider may be hydroboost. Better braking for much less work and $$.