So I have an '88 e250 that, for it's age and location, is very clean and free from rust. Free from from rust in northern Indiana means that there is some, but that it is mostly surface and not wide spread. To control the rust prior to permanent body work being done the surface rust places have been sand blasted and sealed with Rustoleum. There is one spot behind the barn doors that was showing some bad rust. Cleaning up the rust with a the sandblaster and grinder revieled that it was completely rusted through and decent sized. Since I plan on driving the van for another 200k miles and I won't have the $$ for body work until next year I had to do something to keep the cancer in check. First I cut and blasted out all the rust that I could. Then I sealed it up with this. After working on it some more I will need to clean it up and put a few more coats on:


After that I used a sheet of weldable steel to form a patch. Nice to put my old sheet metal tools to use:



I went ahead and used this to punch the holes in the patch as well as flange the hole:

Then I secured it with these:

Fit pretty well:



I will seal things up with seam sealer and replace the body plug. I will also paint the patch panel I made to match the rest. I could have a buddy of mine weld it in, but since it is temporary I am thinking no. I am also debating replacing the screws with rivets for the time being.

I will update and post more pics as I finish up the temporary patch. Overall I an happy with the progress. Thinking it should look decent and keep the rust/cancer from growing too fast over the next year until I have the $$ for proper body work to be done.

 

it works !

 

Not bad. I have a couple suggestions.

1. I like to paint the patch panel front and back before installing them. Then I apply another coat or two of paint to the whole area once it's installed. Don't forget to paint the screw/rivot holes before installing it. If you don't you will get rust stains/runs from the fasteners ( even if you paint everything after installing it ) .

2. Pull the screws one at a time and install rivots. The screws can work themselves loose and fall out. Which is not great with it being in front of the rear tire. Even with the running boards they can work themselves into your tire.

 

Thanks for the pointers. I plan on painting both sides of the patch panel prior to installation and then putting another few coats on afterwards.

When I cut out the rusted area the void/body cavity was full of what appeared to be some kind of sound deadening insulation material. Is there something I could use to replace that? I am assuming it was there to help reduce rusting somehow.

 

Undercoating is suppose to slow down rusting. It's a black rubber looking coating. Sound deadner usually causes rust. It usually absorbs water and holds it against the metal. My 89 has the rubber floor mat inside, instead of carpet. And the stupid sound deadner under the matt got wet and rotted out my front floors!

 

So I finished this up today. Painted both sides of the patch prior to installing:



I used this instead of Standard Bondo to fill in some areas since it said it was waterproof:


Since I had the stuff out I went ahead and hit another spot with the wire wheel. Filled, sanded and Painted it. I picked flat black on purpose since it hides imperfections:



Attached the patch panel:

They didn't have actual automotive seam sealer at Home Depot, so I went with this. I placed a bead where all the parts mate as well as on the patch shoulder after it was installed:

Added 3-4 coats of flat black:

Turned out okay and should keep the rust at bay for the winter. I opted to leave the cavity hollow.

 

you might want to drill a drain hole if you can

 

I was thinking this would be a good idea. Looking a little closer at it shows that Ford has 2 of them already. If you look at he picture where I put the Bondo Glass on the cavity prior to attaching the patch, you can see small openings in the bottom corners.

 

Good !