The topic today is the headlight switch and my continuing bafflement with said swtich.

Here's the facts:
The shaft on my original switch never seemed to be properly seated and would tend to pull out completely with use.
When the switch was removed from the dash, the retention clip always seemed to hold properly. Of course, when reinstalled, it doesn't seat.
I bought a NOS replacement - results have been the same.

So the question is: What's up with this thing?

Anyone else have this issue? More importantly, what is the fix?

I await your wisdom.

 

Coincidence as I was working on my headlight switch in my '50 yesterday. My taillights were not working , I discovered the wire had pulled of the switch. I couldn't get the shaft out of the switch as I couldn't locate the release. I loosened off the hold nut on the dash and was able to work on it and then tighten it back up. The switch doesn't pull all the way out now, so I will look at it today, in better light.

Is it possible that something is preventing the switch from seating properly in your dash so that the shaft does not make good contact with the retaining spring? It is a fairly congested area under that part of the dash.

Tom

 

Thanks for the input, Tom.
Certainly real estate is at a premium with this switch. The housing is getting twisted causing thei shaft to skew and not seat properly in the clip. I've adjusted the wires and connectors without improvement. Still after a solution.

 

Is the **** loose on the shaft? Maybe it has moved just enough to make the shaft assembly shorter and not engage...

 

I've had trouble with mine too but found if you wiggle it a bit it catches, also had trouble removing the stem too and used the same technique. I have the Ron Francis switches in both of mine and both do the same..

 

Nope, not loose.

Out of the dash, the shaft seats and locks properly in the clip. It slides cleanly and turns everything on/off as it intended. Install in the dash and the clip engages and might work for a cycle or two. The shaft is hard to move and then the clp disengages - usually with the lights off. I can't replicate the separation away from the dash.

It's a durn blame mystery I tells ya.

 

When it works correctly out of the dash, is the bezel nut installed in the switch? If not, the **** is likely hitting the bezel before the shaft can fully lock in.

 

What a coincidence... I have the same problem, I got it out and took it all apart. I opened up the case and had a look inside. The little switches all seemed fine. The little dimple that indicates park light position was worn off so I re dimpled it. If I remember, I had to push the switch all the way in and twist it. This releases/locks it into position. BTW, when I opened up the metal casing all those goofy little switches jumped out and onto the bench. After several hours playing with them I think I might have them in proper order. Getting them to get them back into position was a real good puzzle. Sure hope it works. I still have to bench test it.

 

The bezel doesn't cause any interference issue out of the dash. The shaft is quite hard to move when installed. I'll try to figure out why it is deflecting when in place.

 

Yup Earl, you are correct The shaft needs to be twisted a quarter turn to seat it on the clip. When seated, the shaft moves everything it should - until it gets into the dash...

 

What if?....I'm looking at the pic and wondering if when installed in the dash and tightend up, the distance from the locking point on that slider and the back of the dash changes angle or distance.

 

And? Go on....

 

We all like a good puzzle, do we not? Sitting here with the switch from my '49 in my hand and can not get any failure. The **** has been removed on mine but that should not make a difference.
What if the vertical part of the switch slide were bent to the rear, such as could happen if someone were to force against the switch ****? This could allow only one tab, top or bottom to fit all the way into the vertical part of the switch slide? Try moving the **** end of the switch up and down and see if it will lock into position. Might try adjusting the vertical part of the switch where it is more of a perpendicular to the switch rod. This adjustment would be made with a small bender or needle nose pliers. Yes, there are tools called benders.
If you want this switch, pm me.
Edit: Try removing any spacers at the dash that may prevent the shaft from entering completely into the switch slide. Perhaps you're just hooking up on the brass tab.

 

My thoughts are similar to tinman52. I would check to see if, when mounted in the dash, that the **** is making contact with the bezel and not allowing the **** assy to fully engage in the lock.


Maybe when its out of the dash you can start backing off the bezel a quarter turn at a time and see if you can replicate the **** not engaging the lock pin. If so, then maybe see if you can tell if its similar to how its mounted in the dash.


Good luck
Bobby

 

Appreciate the input from all. Between the original and the NOS, I seem to have two perfectly functional switches. Like a number of things that resist working when trying 'harder', I have put a bit of space between the last fix attempt and today. I'll fiddle with this over the next little while and report back on results.