Hi all. So I got my truck a few months ago. A 96 f250 7.3 4x4. I've only put 5k miles on it so far. Only issue aside from body/frame rust was the guy said it'll need glowplugs by winter or plug it in.

So 70 degrees and it doesn't want to start right away. I just sold the F150 in my sig and am ready to learn about this truck. And since I don't know anything about diesels and they're kind of expensive, I want to give it a good overhaul to get in and start learning some about it.

So for starters, I want to replace the glowplugs. (motorcraft everything I can get)

I also burn a bit of oil, which I read could be the fuel injector o-rings. So I want to replace those as well.

And I read the glowplugs are under the valve covre gasket, so new gaskets.

I broke the front radiator mounts when I got the truck and replaced those mounts and new bushings and read about the horror stories of the radiator support mount. So I want to remove the radiator/grill setup and clean that up as much as possible and maybe weld in some new medal/paint it.

Also plan on cleaning as much frame as I can and giving it POR or some kind of equivelant treatment.

Here's my parts list so far:



If you guys can think of absolutely anything that I should service/replace with some of this stuff, please let me know.

So far I've only done a fuel filter and air filter.

And also if you reccomend a certain repair manual for this truck, it'd be appreciated. Hayne's manual worked great for my 1st car, been useless to me for years now as it is just general knowledge mostly. But I have no knowledge of diesel.


THANKS!

 

valve cover gaskets are re usable, I have had mine off several times with out issue


at 70, it should not need glow plugs at all


before doing glow plugs, do a compression test so you have a base to go on forward and check to see if the turbo inlet blades are good looking with no pits


you can ohm out the plugs before changing them to see if they are really bad, could just be a bad Glow Plug relay.


Diesels don't burn oil like a gasser, when you see blue smoke its usually oil from the turbo seals leaking. these engines can run on engine oil and some pour the used oil right into the diesel tank.


black fuel filter usually means failed injector orings

 

Thanks Knottyrope. That's a lot of good info. I didn't really think of the glow plug relay. I'll run through some tests on that tomorrow.

And I do think my turbo is so-so. It'll get minimal smoke coming off of it from time to time. And just the otherday it was making a whistling noise for the 1st mile or so cold. Doesn't seem to have as much oomph anymore either.. but I wouldn't be a good judge, my Escort feels like a race-car when I hop in that now.

I don't smoke out my tailpipe unless its hard to start and only for a second or two. But my exhaust does seem to have a stronger smell lately. I don't remember if my fuel filter was black or not.. but it wasn't clean like my new one.


I'll try to find a compression guage on eBay or somewhere. Folks say the HF adapters are too short, can anyone confirm this?

I'll let ya know what I find out on the glowplug relay. Thanks. And nice truck BTW. Surely it must feel nice to ride down the road and have a more badass truck than 99/100.

 

Yes the Harbour freight ones are too short. But get that kit and an eBay 7.3 adapter.

Outer wires on valve cover connectors are for glow plugs. Ohm them out to block and should be less than 1.5 ohms. If all are good then relay could be the issue. Jumping relay with a old wrench or screw driver can tell you if good or bad. My volt meter goes lower when they are on. After 20 seconds mine starts up at 37 f out. When 70 or higher I just turn the key and it fires up.

How many miles on it?
Did you do an oil change?
Shell Rotella t 15-40 works well for the engine. And change it about every 5k. Fuel filter every 10k.

Also check fuel pressure with tire gauge should be around 60 psi at idle

 

About the slow starting, one of the members here solved that problem by just holding the key a liitle bit longer after the Wait to Start light goes out. Also, starters and batteries get tired. The engine should spin fast when you're cranking the starter. If it seems sluggish there's a problem somewhere.

 

Thanks guys. I did do an oil change the other day with the motorcraft 15w-40. I skipped the HPOP oil change since I was slow to get this going. Gonna save a small bottle to have it tested.. but it's burned/leaked a little over a gallon in those 5k miles. So not sure how accurate the test will be.

And I was able to give it a good inspection and found the drivers side cab support rusted through. The passengers wasn't as bad.

And to regain some power maybe.. I found an exhaust leak. Right below the passenger side door.. the sort of flat piece of exhaust that bolts onto the rest of the tailpipe had rusted (The hardware)

So that may be a good oppurtunity to pull the turbo and rebuild it. I see the kits for $100.. am I missing something? Or should $100 and I be good for another 100+k miles?

I haven't checked the glow plug relay yet. Gonna do that today and find some info on turbo rebuild/cheap exhaust upgrades.

edit: Bob_T it cranks strong. Can run a 12volt muppet d... Never mind! I have 2 good Napa Legend batteries that were purchased last winter. It just doesn't start until I cycle it a few times. But turning the key back and forth a few times and waiting for the light doesn't help. It actually requires the cranking. I'll test the fuel pressure too.

 

exhaust leaks after the turbo wont effect performance


if you have a flat down pipe, then getting a 3in down pipe would help with a slight power increase and lower EGTs


Diamond Eye 3" Down Pipe, Ford (1994-97) F250/F350, 7.3L Power Stroke, Aluminized


or


MBRP 3" Aluminized 2 Piece Downpipe 7.3 Powerstroke 94-97 Ford

 

Don't forget to check summit racing for prices and free shipping....

 

Ok thanks for info on the exhaust. I'll keep that low on the list for now.

Just checked my glow plug relay and it is bad. It was at .5volts and I told my brother that it wouldn't start.. and it didn't. After 3 cycles or so, it started and read 13v after I shut off and tested it.

The turbo smoked on startup after not starting. That's the only time I get visible smoke out of it.

I'll check pricing and order a new relay or get one at the store tomorrow. My biggest now issue is frame rust and mounts. The oil consumption if it's not hurting anything is bearable for a few weeks.

I broke 2 cab/radiator mounts and a leaf spring mount doing a donut when I got the truck.




Thanks for that advice Knotty.

 

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhahahahhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa My eyes.. I see rust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I saw a guy on youtube clean a frame up with an air chisel and that's my plan. Gonna start at the rear bumper this week. I do have new brake lines and fuel lines. So that is a plus.

I especially hate chunks falling in my ears.

 

I think you just broke Mike.

 

The glow plugs stay on after the WTS light goes out. They actually stay on for awhile after the engine starts, until the oil temp reaches a certain point. The light is just an indicator so that we don't try to start before the GP's are hot. No need to turn the key back and forth, just hold it to the right for 5 or 10 extra seconds after the light goes out before trying to start it. Just suggesting this because several members here mentioned that it worked for them.

Of course if you have to wait longer after the WTS light goes out in order to start thr engine something isn't quite right somewhere.

 

at 37 f out I just counted to ten seconds after WTS went out and cranked it over just fine