New member here! To start off, I have done a lot of research on this forum, but haven't quite found what i needed in any of the old threads, so i figured i'd ask. I would appreciate any help, as i cant figure out this problem alone.

I am fairly new to powerstrokes (toyota guy), but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.

The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.

Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission

Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)

Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355

Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.

This is where i am at so far. I dont have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.

If yall could point me in a direction of what to test next it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Derrick

 

New values upon cranking:
ICP: 1909psi
ICP:2.3V
ICP duty cycle: 57%
RPM 185
Battery Voltage: 11.06

Is this enough to start the motor?

 

I believe the motor has to hit 500 RPM before the injectors will fire. Voltage looks good, threshold for start is 10.5v. Those are the numbers I know. I am sure others will be chiming in.

 

I am getting smoke out the exhaust. Also, while cranking, the motor is skipping like it wants to start.

I'm now getting a code P0231 code (fuel pump secondary circuit low)
Fuel pump fuse is good and pump is getting 11V for 20sec or so after the key is switched on, also the switch on the passenger kick panel is not tripped.

This truck is aggravating.

 

I believe that the ICP duty cycle is high but I amm no expert. Also most insist on Ford or International CPS. Those from the typical parts stores do not have a great reputation but with some smoke at the tail pipe this may not be your problem.

 

Smoke, no start would typify a cold start (GP) issue. Try plugging the block heater in overnight and see if that helps. Also, you can try jumping across the GPR with a screwdriver for a minute and see if it starts. New parts aren't always good parts.

 

What is your EOT temp if it's high on a cool day unplug it and the PCU will return to defalt and jumper GPR

 

EOT should be ambient temp, so 50-80*f depending on the time of day

I could be wrong, but I don't think it's a glow plug issue. I've ohm tested the gplugs and volt tested the relay, all work good. Both uvch checked out good. I only get a small amount, white in color, poof of smoke once the motor builds enough oil pressure and tries to fire.

I just figured out the icp duty cycle is getting to 64% after long extended tries to crank. Is this normal? I'm thinking I either have an hp oil leak or this is electrical.

I blocked off one port on the Hpop with a plug and tapped my gauge in head that's still connected to the Hpop to test for leaks; is this the correct way to test leaking orings on the injectors??? I tested both heads this way yielding 3000psi in both heads.

Thanks to everyone whose replied, all ideas are welcome!

 

What are you using for a Scantool?

Have you checked the fuel pressure with a gauge while cranking?

"In theory", excluding an issue with the IDM (I see you replaced it), it should be firing. Can you monitor the Fuel-Pulse-With (FPW) with your Scantool?

If your valve covers are still off, do you see oil from the deflectors while long cranking?

 

Im using dash command on my iPad. Seems to work ok, but can't see the FPW.

Ill look at the deflectors in the morning and see if I get a steady flow. Ill be buying a fuel gauge too

 

If your injectors are putting out oil, that indicates the injectors are receiving a command from the IDM. It is a visual indication that some kind of signal to inject fuel is present.
When you are messing around, after cranking go sniff the exhaust pipe for raw diesel smell.

I second the idea of plugging in the block heater for an hour before cranking.

OEM CPS is the best way to go--many have not had good luck with aftermarket.

You could have a glow plug issue as well

Larry

 

Oregon Fuel Injection has some helpful hints at this web site (scroll down to 7.3 L engines):

Diesel Diagnostic information for Powerstroke 6.0, 7.3, IDI 7.3 and 6.9 L, by Oregon Fuel Injection

 

As you will see in that Oregon Fuel Injection leak, you are reaching almost all the requirements for the engine to fire - but as pirschwagon mentioned, we need to see FIPW.

iPad, eh? You can acquire FORScan and that will allow you to see all the sensors, plus do a buzz test. Once you have FORScan, look at the FIPW, it should read 600 microseconds, or 0.6 ms - this is the signal showing the PCM and IDM are synced up. Without that, the show's over. Once the ICP, volts, and RPMs reach the minimum requirements, the FIPW will jump up and the IDM is sending the signal to fire, but that doesn't mean the injectors are actually firing - you could have a flaky UVCH (UVCH link in my signature).

 

i downloaded the FORScan, looking up the fipw now. How do I buzz test using the app?

 

The forscan app won't allow me to look up fipw. I don't see it listed under the pid list.