'94 F150- 5.8L Vin H - AIR/performance/questions
#1
'94 F150- 5.8L Vin H - AIR/performance/questions
Hello all; Ford lover for 35 years, snatched a new auto/4x4 toy, but the kid kept driving it after the heater core exploded and cracked a/or head(s). So, I have a 200k mile truck in need of an engine. Going back to AZ, no emissions/smog, YAY!
1. It has a smog pump, but plan on tossing it. Does it have AIR or non-AIR heads?
2. If I pitch the pump, can I bypass a ckt to avoid CEL?
3. How can I add add'l power? Besides obvious, CAI, yada, yada....
TIA!!!
1. It has a smog pump, but plan on tossing it. Does it have AIR or non-AIR heads?
2. If I pitch the pump, can I bypass a ckt to avoid CEL?
3. How can I add add'l power? Besides obvious, CAI, yada, yada....
TIA!!!
#2
#3
Welcome to the forum.
If your heads are cracked, an obvious starting point for more performance is upgrading those. GT40 or GT40P heads are cheap-ish upgrades. Aftermarket aluminum heads have a lot more potential but come at a price.
Being a 94' truck, it is a roller cam setup (block has taller lifter bosses for the roller lifters). So stay roller on valve train. Stock cam with 1.7 ratio roller rockers, GT40P heads, long tube headers, ported lower intake to match 5.0L truck upper intake is kicking azz for me right now. Finished my build about 2 weeks ago, it's laid out in detail in a thread titled "351w build-budget minded" or something like that. I gave up on a tight budget but replaced a ton of "might as well" items with the notion it'll keep me out of a new truck long enough to be worth it. I am afraid I'm going to roast the high mile E4OD in short order if I don't keep my right foot out of it.
Two crucial items:
What's your budget?
What is your intended use of the truck?
If your heads are cracked, an obvious starting point for more performance is upgrading those. GT40 or GT40P heads are cheap-ish upgrades. Aftermarket aluminum heads have a lot more potential but come at a price.
Being a 94' truck, it is a roller cam setup (block has taller lifter bosses for the roller lifters). So stay roller on valve train. Stock cam with 1.7 ratio roller rockers, GT40P heads, long tube headers, ported lower intake to match 5.0L truck upper intake is kicking azz for me right now. Finished my build about 2 weeks ago, it's laid out in detail in a thread titled "351w build-budget minded" or something like that. I gave up on a tight budget but replaced a ton of "might as well" items with the notion it'll keep me out of a new truck long enough to be worth it. I am afraid I'm going to roast the high mile E4OD in short order if I don't keep my right foot out of it.
Two crucial items:
What's your budget?
What is your intended use of the truck?
#4
Thank you both for the rapid responses, been turning wrenches since I was 7, but my full time IT Engineer gig takes all my time. Lead Head- twin tubes; all the way from the airbox to the intake, which appears to have a coolant return line? Odd....mass is easier to modify than speed-density right?
GB- I'll search for the post; budget for a build- $2500-$3k, then there's the tranny, unsure it's condition. So, what's an option to the E40D? It's a 4x4, so off road play, daily driver, travel trailer towing....putting the Cobra back into the garage for awhile. Thanks!!!!
GB- I'll search for the post; budget for a build- $2500-$3k, then there's the tranny, unsure it's condition. So, what's an option to the E40D? It's a 4x4, so off road play, daily driver, travel trailer towing....putting the Cobra back into the garage for awhile. Thanks!!!!
#5
I was thinking 1994 would be SD not MAF but wasn't sure. From what I gathered, SD is picky about vacuum signal, so lobe separation angle on the cam (LSA) should be kept above 112 to 114 degrees. They're okay with flowing plenty of air (and making good power/torque) but you won't get away with a lopey (sp?) idle style cam.
I think your budget is realistic. I was right in that range. Probably the high end, but as I've learned with snowmobiling, don't add it up! Just guess and sleep better.
For what it's worth, I have 245k on my completely stock E4OD. It had fluid/filter changes every 50-60k miles, but nothing else. They're pretty stout if they stay cool. I'll likely go to a 5 speed when the time comes, but I hope it isn't until next summer. If you wanted to stay auto, a reputable rebuilder may be your best course of action.
I think your budget is realistic. I was right in that range. Probably the high end, but as I've learned with snowmobiling, don't add it up! Just guess and sleep better.
For what it's worth, I have 245k on my completely stock E4OD. It had fluid/filter changes every 50-60k miles, but nothing else. They're pretty stout if they stay cool. I'll likely go to a 5 speed when the time comes, but I hope it isn't until next summer. If you wanted to stay auto, a reputable rebuilder may be your best course of action.
#6
#7
On the air filter note.. I used to run a K&N drop in filter. I drive in a lot of dust. My MAF sensor was much dirtier than I realized. Intake plumbing had plenty of dust inside (yes K&N was oiled). After doing some reading & thinking I opted to go back to paper Wix filters (with stock intake). It's better in my eyes to buy a new $8 filter once or twice a year and know the air is clean than risk it for what, nearly unmeasurable gain in air flow? Stock intake system is not going to be the bottle neck, put that money towards heads.
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