I was asked by another member here to put a list of parts together for him to upgrade some of his 5ers suspension and brakes similar to what I've done for ours.

What I will be accomplishing on our 5er is bringing our trailer's suspension more into line with what it really could have been as it rolled out the manufacturer's back door. First of all, I really haven't had a problem as the suspension 'works' and the brakes do as well. With that said, both could have been better. The suspension wallows some on bridge approaches and departures especially if there is any water in the FW tank. The brakes work, but are, like all electric/magnet brakes, not so great. I haven't done the mods yet, still accumulating parts. Etrailer sells most, but there are some better components elsewhere, often at less cost.

This is what I've put together along with a few comments. If I don't mention a source, it's etrailer:

- MORryde CRE/3000. This was already on our 5er and seems to work OK. Any of their other systems will require new center spring hangers to be welded on. If you have shock absorbers or a 'conventional' equalizer, then I would most likely go with the Dexter E-Z Flex instead.

- Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - E-Coat - 5,200 lbs to 6,000 lbs K2HR526E or K2HR526 (2 pair - I have the second one listed as our 5er will never see a salt environment and a few bucks less)

- Brake line kit (Eastern Marine) Bludot trailer brake line kit 0539-016. Material list makeup seem better then etrailer though about the same price

- Hydrastar Trailer Brake Actuator HBA16. I will be ordering this along with the brake line kit, above, soon - I have everything else in my shop waiting a few nice days in a row.

- 6-Leaf Double-Eye Spring for 6,000-lb Trailer Axles - 26" Long SP-053275 (4 pc). See the Dexter website on determining whether you have a 33" or a 35" dimension between axles along with how to measure the existing springs. 33" usually takes a 25" spring while the 35" will usually take the 26" spring.

- U-Bolt Kit APUBR-9 (2 sets) I'm using the longer bolts as I may use the 1" spacer made up for more tire to body clearance

- Bearings, cones only - Kodiak hubs already have the cups. Timken 25580, Timken 15123 (4 of each - AMAZON Prime was the least expensive when shipping was added to others prices)

- Seals 10-36 (2 sets)

- Mystick #6 High temp grease per Dexter (Tractor Supply, 3 tubes)

- MORryde wet bolt kit UO12-016 Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit, 2.25" Shackles - (you need to measure your shackle length) I installed this mod last spring but felt it needed to be mentioned. I'm using new bronze bushings in the new springs

For an earlier truck (pre '11 anyhow), you may need a different brake controller (Prodigy), heavier breakaway switch and an 'adapter' - I don't need these nor have I researched it very deeply as my '11 is already set up for electric over hydraulic (EOH).

If you are looking at final cost, my estimate would be in the more or less 15-1600 dollar range and probably two full 8 hour days of your time. It is a pretty straight forward wrenching job. If your TT/5er has a 7000# suspension, parts are similar but not identical and of course a few bucks more costly.

I'll try to take photos and write up a description as I go along but this may not happen 'til spring.

 

I am the other member that has been picking Dave's brain. I recently bought a 2011 Montana High Country 313RE and have been looking to upgrade everything from the frame down in regards to springs, axles, brakes, tires...

Thanks to Dave, I now have a list to start with. The parts for my trailer might be slightly different, but at least now I know what to look for.

 

For the EoH system, consider preparing it for a truck that has an integrated controller which is not capable of controlling EoH. The prep-work is:
> Buy a couple of magnets (yes Two, no more, no less) or a known 'fooler' from the EoH manufacturer.
> Buy a couple of 2-wire 12V 'Accessory' plugs (same as a flat 4 wire trailer plug but with two wires). Also, watch for Amperage ratings on the plugs as the magnets will probably draw 3 amps each. Do not know what the 'foolers' draw.
> Wire the accessory plugs *IN PARALLEL* with each other and the braking system (blue and white wires).

Reasoning for preparing for a non-compatible integrated brake controller now is that you are already set-up *just* in case the tow vehicle goes down and you need to borrow one (or upgrade to one) with an integrated brake controller that is not capable of seeing the EoH system. So best to cover all possibilities rather than get caught with a tow vehicle that only turns on the brake lights and *not* the brakes.

After getting ready for a non-compliant integrated controller, making one work is as simple as plugging-in the magnets / fooler.

 

I wonder if it might be worthwhile to have that in the top folder, perhaps with a picture or hand written diagram if Jay has time? This question comes up from time to time.

Steve

 

If you are going to replace everything I would look at going with Dexter Torque Flex axles. That way the only other thing you would need is the disk brakes and you would end up with independent suspension plus you can built a subframe to to spread the weight along the frame or raise the trailer if needed.

Denny

 

Will do a quick write-up and grab a pic. The issue seems fairly well covered in misc forums and searching on "ITBC hydraulic brakes" will show the issue, effected model years of vehicles, and various fixes. From what I had read, seemed that Dodge was the only manufacturer (at least of the US brands) that got ITBC and EoH compliance correct from the start. There are two cures for a non-EoH compliant ITBC:
> bypass the ITBC and install an aftermarket controller (from what I had read, this is the only recommendation from vehicle manufacturers).
> install a 'fooler' so that the ITBC will see and use the trailer's brakes.

Toward wiring, installing a 'fooler' is straight-forward. The device(s) (either magnets or one of the foolers) wire in parallel with the hydraulic pump using the blue (brake signal) wire and white (ground) wire. I decided to use magnets and connected them with 12v Accessory plugs (the shielded side goes to the blue wire so that I do not have to worry about a short when the fooler is not in use) so that I can disconnect the fooler when using an EoH compliant brake controller. When using magnets, they wire in parallel with each other and the hydraulic pump.

Saw a 'tube video where one individual used a single light bulb (looked like an 1156 bulb) as the fooler, but in reading other commentary about the ITBC's looking for sufficient load to sense a 'good' brake system (specifically, at least *two* magnets' worth), I decided to go with magnets.

Once the truck's ITCB 'saw' the trailer (after installation of magnets), it was just a matter of 'dialing-in' the brake strength.

 

Denny and Jay. Good comments

Denny

I looked at Torflex axles early on as a DIY option and decided that first of all at about 1100 or so bucks per axle plus shipping for the EOH version was a bit too much. Then I felt the Lippert frame under our 5er would need too many modifications - a sub frame plus cross members which would add a few more bucks though, just for materials. Lastly, it was just not something I could do laying on my back on my driveway with my MIG welder so would need to, at a minimum, hire a certified welder or haul the trailer to a local chassis and spring shop to do the job for even more dollars.

Jay - that's why I mentioned that Sous (or others) would need to look at Prodigy controllers and adapters:
"For an earlier truck (pre '11 anyhow), you may need a different brake controller (Prodigy), heavier breakaway switch and an 'adapter' - I don't need these nor have I researched it very deeply as my '11 is already set up for electric over hydraulic (EOH)".

All Ford trucks at least '11 up with integrated controllers, are supposed to work with the HydraStar actuators. Most Dodges and some GMs wont. The Titan and Dexter units are maybe, but then (mostly) maybe not. As far as a TV not working with the brake actuator ---- I can't worry about a 'possible' situation. Even a vehicle that wont work with the brake actuator can haul a trailer a reasonable distance to get it safely off a highway and without brakes. I had that very exercise on a hilly section of New Mexico's I-40 about 6 weeks ago after the trailer pigtail popped off the plug. It was over 10 miles before I felt I could safely stop and plug it back in the socket. Not a bit of trouble stopping using only the truck's brakes either with none to very little more increased distance.

Good project though if you like doing this sort of thing and might even be a way around a 65 buck 'adapter' but not sure of much if any savings if you need to chase parts for a couple hours

 

While never encouraging anyone to run with a working brake controller, I think it has happened to all of us at one time or another. It is really amazing how little stopping the trailer brakes are doing most of the time. If you watch the output on your screen you will see how little is normally going to the trailer brakes.

I know some folks also don't think the trailer can stop the truck in an emergency, but if the trailer brakes are adjusted properly, pull the break-away so the trailer wheels lock and try to move it. Twice a break-away cord caught on my hitch making a sharp turn at the house and it will just about throw you through the windshield!

Steve

 

That is the prime reason that I'm switching to disc brakes. That 12,000 pounds hooked up in the bed of my truck just doesn't seem to be doing its fair share of stopping the combined 20,500 pounds of weight. It amazes me that there doesn't seem to be any hue and cry by more people to require RV manufacturers to upgrade their brakes from the dark ages of trailers to something that really works, much like cars and trucks. Proportional braking just doesn't happen with magnet brakes.

 

I am very grateful that Dave is going through all of this before I am and has done the hard part of the job for me for the most part. The easy part is putting it all together physically where the more painstaking portion is finding the right parts and decent prices.

Dave, you mention that I might need a "heavier breakaway switch and an 'adapter'". Can you provide a bit more detailed information on this and perhaps a link or part number referencing what you are suggesting? I have the Prodigy P3 purchased already and it does support EoH brakes.

I also agree that spending $2K on axles, springs, brakes and equalizers is not a lot of money if they do their job just one time and stop the trailer prior to having an incident. I would like to have 100% confidence in the trailer braking system, and with the drum/electric brakes I do not right now.

 

As mentioned, trailer brakes are *never* guaranteed for numerous reasons. Planning to lose them is a good approach. I once lost trailer brakes (magnetic) at the top of a long 9% grade with switchbacks (combined weight was ~13K#), the manual tranny completely managed speed, and the wife never knew until I was able to pull-over at the bottom and told her.

Regarding the trailer's brakes capabilities, on all of the trailers I have a mixture of magnetic and EoH, two and four brake systems. All of them will stop the entire rig if I need them to and definitely feel when they are working and when not. The two brake trailer might have more of a challenge stopping the whole rig if it is empty.

Toward needing a better break-away switch with EoH, perhaps I am missing something as I understood that the EoH system pulled less current than magnets. Have read that some people with EoH routinely pull the pin while hitching and unhitching as normal procedure.

 

The existing breakaway switch is one those unknowns and at about 12-15 bucks each, not a problem. Supposedly what I have will be fine, but .....

 

I see now, so you are saying replace the breakaway switch because it is cheap and with a new one of your selection you will have a known good working part? Not necessarily that it needs to be replaced, just good practice?

 

There is little to go wrong with these,except they do sit out in the elements If there is any doubt, a new one for not very many more dollars added to this mod might just be a good idea.

 

Ah, gotcha.

I actually care a couple spares as there is always somebody in the group that discovers theirs has died. And, Yes, they are a cheap enough part and do not take up much space