Finally started my axle swap. The old Dana 44 is coming out.Attachment 163523

 

This was a really nice disc front end I found! The pads, rotors, u joints, ball joints were all in good shape. I repacked the wheel bearings and cleaned everything up. I did have to find a set of the old Spicer lockouts to throw on it as it had a set of Warns on it.

The leaf springs are new as well. I took my old set in to be re-arched but they told me they were so pitted in between the leafs they would never hold up. Had to have a new set made and I had them add about 2" of height to level the truck up. This was rather expensive!

 

Nice looking 60, a HIGH price to pay or a hard find then to rebuild them.
Old ugly shocks geez what's 60 bucks after putting all the other funds for it all.

Looks for a long time for a dana 60 but finally caved into a 1976 HD44 low pinon which was okay as. I did not relies or take into considerations what the condition one could be.

And so a full rebuilt and had too do plus sway out the ring & pinon from my old drum 44
Every bearing was rusted or pitted from moisture even the axle were pitted in the inner seal areas. the end u-joint were over run so the outer shafts & spindle needed replacing. Even outer locking hubs needed replacing.

Any yours looks great!

Don't for get to add a proportioning valve an a mc if not done already
Orich

 

Orich, it's actually a 44HD. I looked for a 60 for quite awhile but could only find complete trucks. They usually wanted $2000 for the truck and then the front end would need some work as well. Too much for this poor guy. Buddy of mine came across this axle and he and I worked out a good deal. Honestly, for what I do a d44 HD will suit me fine and last me for years. As for the shocks, I think I'm gonna look into some Bilsteins and I'm gonna order a new Rough Country dual steering stabilizer as well.

On the brakes, I'm gonna try the old distribution valve to see how it acts but why would I need to change the mc? Mine has the large front resorvoir so I think it should work.

 

With the drum/drum pressure differential valve, it will only be sensing for equal pressure between the front and rear brake circuits and to warn if there's a pressure loss in the system.

Unlike an OEM brake valve designed for discs front/drums rear, the drum/drum valve will not have a Metering (hold-off) valve for the front brake circuit and it will not have a Proportioning valve to control the rate of pressure rise to the rear brake circuit under a heavy braking/panic stop situation.

An OEM disc/drum brake valve assembly also includes a pressure differential feature just like the drum/drum valve has but, the disc/drum valve has two additional functions the drum/drum valve doesn't have.

 

My drum to drum 1.1/4" bore only gave me half a pedal no matter how tight my rears brakes were.

Only until, I switched to a 1"bore disc mc that set my pedal way up to the very stroke full hard pedal. And gave me only about 1/8" play so jacked up the rear wheels and backed off the shoes about 5 clicks that gave me about 1/2" play.

My 1.1/4 bore drum to drum always only could get a half pedal no matter how tight the rear brake shoes were. I'd bet you'll have to change your mc out as, I did.

Placed the PV in the rear since you only adjust it once and for get it.

and could not see it up in the way if working on the steering tube linkage etc.

 

Ok. Well, I have disc on the rear also so I'm disc/disc. What do I need now?

 

Do a search is best
Orich