Earlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.

The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.

Ended-up buying Bosch at Pepboys on sale for $122ea: 850cca, 36 month replacement, 90 month prorated, one-time free roadside assistance jump per battery.

I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.

Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.

Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.

 

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. OK.
5. Walmart flips a lot of batteries, next day can be in. They used to be JC, as of 2016 Exide with longer warranty.
6. Not sure that's confirmable, especially since Exide is taking sales from JC.
7. They are just JC aftermarket.
8. Ford is moving to AGM, with the electrics reworked.

Q2. Need an IDS. Sell to Burgess090906.

 

Yep, Johnson Controls makes the old Kirkland brand, Interstate, Motorcraft, and Diehard among many others.
My two newer Interstates I bought at Costco a while back, have a 42 month free replacement warranty. They must have modified it since my purchase.
I think the lesson learned here is never let those batteries get too weak or there are so many other side affects. Mine stay between 12.6-12.8 Vdc static.

 

I'll add on to Jack's: AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat and the fellow you talked to was partially right -- the newer cars do "stay awake" doing stuff well after shutdown. The reason for AGMs is they can handle lower states of charge without the same level of detrimental effect, than a traditional flooded cell can.

I found with our later model Mercedes, which came with an AGM from the factory, that it will be running things for up to a half hour after shut down, and if you have your keyless key fob on you and just walk by it, it does things to get ready to go. This kind of electrical drain would kill a traditional battery pretty quick...

 

Maybe it's just happy to see you.

 

Well this is going a little more off topic, hut it is an example of it "doing things" when it is shut off: I'm not so sure about the happy to see, versus happy when I get out...

It has air suspension and air bladders in the sport seat, when I get out and say walk around the car to get something out of the trunk, it always lets some air out, with a very clear: pffft -- like someone who had a few too many beans and needs to relieve themselves, if you catch my drift?!

I try not to take offense at this seemingly intentional act.

I tell ya' the cars are getting too smart these days...

 

My wife has a 2016 Mercedes and sometimes when you walk by it it will start a whirring noise for a few seconds. Dan is not hallucinating. It bugs the hell out of me. Hers doesn't have the air suspension so it's not a compressor.

 

They started putting in AGM over here when stop-start was introduced. AGM charges fast and has high current. Battery university states you should use a lower voltage to trickle charge though, not sure if it's critical for us.
My last batteries were still turning the engine over ok when the FICM started failing so now I have 2 that will probably work another year or two in any other vehicle but the 6.0 😡

 

Yeah that, Absorbed Glass Mat. Editing original post, thank you.

 

Apparently White Bear Lake doesn't charge a restocking fee so I'll only be on the hook for shipping both ways, > $20. I've made much more expensive mistakes with this truck than that.

Would still be nice to find someone local with an IDS, other than the dealer that is.

 

Actually it more than likely is a compressor, possibly under the rear seat.
The ones I've worked on use the compressor for all the actuators including door locks, gas door, and trunk.
One trick if you ever lock your FOB in the trunk is to access the compressor under the seat. There will be 2 hoses going to the rear, one trunk and one gas door. Unplug the hose and put air pressure to it. You will hear the trunk pop and you're in.

Sorry for off topic but it's neat info. Can also be applied to some BMWs.


I'm not sold on paying more money for less CCA when buying AGM batteries. I strictly buy with the warranty in mind, and the highest CCA.

 

And that's why I went with the Bosch batteries. I noticed they were a bit heavier than the Interstates. Not sure if that matters, just an observation.

 

Heavier the better in my opinion. That tells me there's more lead.

 

That's what we found back at the facility. Once someone mentioned that the production line battery was heavier then the Motorcraft replacement, then everyone else stated they noticed that too. Next time we did that we weighed the difference.

If I'm not mistaken the Die Hard super battery that everyone liked a few yards back I believe weighed in the mid 50's.

 

My mechanic that we use and get service from occasionally talked to me about replacing my 2 batteries. I told him I wanted to use Motorcraft and he said that would be fine as long as they aren't making them in Mexico. Then he got an newer vehicle in with a Motorcraft battery in it, Hecho in Mexico.

He said they've had good luck with a place that manufactures in Pennsylvania, but I don't remember the name of the parent company.