2001 V10 heater hose leaks
#1
2001 V10 heater hose leaks
Hi Folks -
I've got a pretty substantial drip someplace at the vacuum heater valve and I am trying to figure out what I am dealing with.
I replaced the valve and clamps but the leak persists. The three hoses are so close together I cannot tell which one is leaking.
Does anyone know the part numbers for the three hoses? There is one that runs from the intake/front passenger head to the valve that is just held on with clamps.
One runs straight down to some sort of fitting and connects to a metal line. I think it may be a quick connect fitting. It is very short.
The third runs from the back of the valve to the firewall.
There is a fourth hose that comes back up from the "somewhere" below and also is a metal hard line with a fitting and rubber hose that goes "someplace" else back towards the firewall. Not connected to vacuum valve...
In any event, if I am going to rip into this, I'd like to just replace the hoses in one shot and done with it. No luck finding much on Google. Also, does anyone sell the OEM style spring clamps? I love those things...
The 2 pics included show the valve and the front heater hose. ( I saved the OEM clamps by just sliding them back on the hoses as pictured. I figured if the valve and worm drive clamps didn't fix this I'd put them back on.)
Thanks again for any help folks!
Jay
I've got a pretty substantial drip someplace at the vacuum heater valve and I am trying to figure out what I am dealing with.
I replaced the valve and clamps but the leak persists. The three hoses are so close together I cannot tell which one is leaking.
Does anyone know the part numbers for the three hoses? There is one that runs from the intake/front passenger head to the valve that is just held on with clamps.
One runs straight down to some sort of fitting and connects to a metal line. I think it may be a quick connect fitting. It is very short.
The third runs from the back of the valve to the firewall.
There is a fourth hose that comes back up from the "somewhere" below and also is a metal hard line with a fitting and rubber hose that goes "someplace" else back towards the firewall. Not connected to vacuum valve...
In any event, if I am going to rip into this, I'd like to just replace the hoses in one shot and done with it. No luck finding much on Google. Also, does anyone sell the OEM style spring clamps? I love those things...
The 2 pics included show the valve and the front heater hose. ( I saved the OEM clamps by just sliding them back on the hoses as pictured. I figured if the valve and worm drive clamps didn't fix this I'd put them back on.)
Thanks again for any help folks!
Jay
#2
I usually get rid of the spring clamps and use a good quality SS worm drive clamp. Especially after reading how a guy lost an eye when one of those spring clamps went flying after it slipped loose.
The 2 coolant lines that go down to metal tubes are the supply and return lines for the rear heater core.
The plastic tee may be cracked causing your leak.
You can use regular 5/8" heater hose, brass connectors and a brass tee to rebuild the lines probably for a lot less that factory hoses if they are even available.
Now might be a good time to reroute some of the lines to gain better access to that side of the engine like this:
The 2 coolant lines that go down to metal tubes are the supply and return lines for the rear heater core.
The plastic tee may be cracked causing your leak.
You can use regular 5/8" heater hose, brass connectors and a brass tee to rebuild the lines probably for a lot less that factory hoses if they are even available.
Now might be a good time to reroute some of the lines to gain better access to that side of the engine like this:
#4
Thanks, 2002 Excursion Limited.
It took a few weeks to get just the right parts/hoses.
All the vacuum,coolant hoses were modified/moved.
I used brass fittings, silicone elbows, reinforced fuel hoses.
Have about 20k on it with no issues.
Sure makes changing/retorquing the plugs, accessing the fuel pressure test port and IAC easier.
Here's a pic of the rebuilt PCV line.
Still don't know why the line tees from the PCV valve and connects to the manifold in two places.
It took a few weeks to get just the right parts/hoses.
All the vacuum,coolant hoses were modified/moved.
I used brass fittings, silicone elbows, reinforced fuel hoses.
Have about 20k on it with no issues.
Sure makes changing/retorquing the plugs, accessing the fuel pressure test port and IAC easier.
Here's a pic of the rebuilt PCV line.
Still don't know why the line tees from the PCV valve and connects to the manifold in two places.
#6
Well, upon further inspection, the leak seem to be coming from the upper rear nipple/hose on the heater valve.
I had just replaced the valve, so I pulled off the hose, clipped the end back about 1/4 inch, and put it back on. Leaks just as bad. As in bad enough its a steady trickle.
I am ordering a new valve and will try again in case the valve is cracked. The last valve broke in the exact same area.
If that's not it, not I'll rip into it and try cutting it back further and redoing the hose layout. This is a PIA to get back to.
Why can't these things **** the bed at the front of the engine once in a while??
Jay
I had just replaced the valve, so I pulled off the hose, clipped the end back about 1/4 inch, and put it back on. Leaks just as bad. As in bad enough its a steady trickle.
I am ordering a new valve and will try again in case the valve is cracked. The last valve broke in the exact same area.
If that's not it, not I'll rip into it and try cutting it back further and redoing the hose layout. This is a PIA to get back to.
Why can't these things **** the bed at the front of the engine once in a while??
Jay
#7
Well, upon further inspection, the leak seem to be coming from the upper rear nipple/hose on the heater valve.
I had just replaced the valve, so I pulled off the hose, clipped the end back about 1/4 inch, and put it back on. Leaks just as bad. As in bad enough its a steady trickle.
I am ordering a new valve and will try again in case the valve is cracked. The last valve broke in the exact same area.
If that's not it, not I'll rip into it and try cutting it back further and redoing the hose layout. This is a PIA to get back to.
Why can't these things **** the be at the front of the engine once in a while??
Jay
I had just replaced the valve, so I pulled off the hose, clipped the end back about 1/4 inch, and put it back on. Leaks just as bad. As in bad enough its a steady trickle.
I am ordering a new valve and will try again in case the valve is cracked. The last valve broke in the exact same area.
If that's not it, not I'll rip into it and try cutting it back further and redoing the hose layout. This is a PIA to get back to.
Why can't these things **** the be at the front of the engine once in a while??
Jay
What fun would that be Jay? Good luck, hopefully the new, new valve will fix it. Keep us in the loop.
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#10
Turns out it was the heater valve, again.
Procured a new one, replaced with the original clamps, and now dry as a bone again.
Not sure why it was leaking, but I am guessing the casting flash was causing it since I couldn't see any cracks. These things look to be pretty cheaply made...
Thanks!
Jay
Procured a new one, replaced with the original clamps, and now dry as a bone again.
Not sure why it was leaking, but I am guessing the casting flash was causing it since I couldn't see any cracks. These things look to be pretty cheaply made...
Thanks!
Jay
#11
Bad Valve Again
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but the new valve lasted about a month then it too failed. It is leaking - again - from the vacuum diaphragm.
I ordered a Motorcraft unit. I would guess there is a bad run of the aftermarket valves as I have had 3 fail, but were two different brands, from Autozone and O'Reilly.
Jay
I ordered a Motorcraft unit. I would guess there is a bad run of the aftermarket valves as I have had 3 fail, but were two different brands, from Autozone and O'Reilly.
Jay
#13
Yeah, its just that parts like this always have to be ordered and when the truck goes down I need it up right away..so I end up getting what I can find the same day.
IMHO, this is a dumb design in any event.
Also, there is no guarantee the Motorcraft part is going to be any better - I am sure it is made in China too. If I have the problem again I am going to just put in a Tee fitting and manual valve and call it a day. I am sick of this BS.
Jay
IMHO, this is a dumb design in any event.
Also, there is no guarantee the Motorcraft part is going to be any better - I am sure it is made in China too. If I have the problem again I am going to just put in a Tee fitting and manual valve and call it a day. I am sick of this BS.
Jay
#14
I couldn't handle see the puddle under truck while I wait for a new valve to get here, so I went ahead and just put in a 5/8 Tee fitting in place of the valve. It fit perfectly.
Seems to do the trick. Staying dry so far. The valve is only closed under MAX A/C setting, so as it's our cold season here, it has no effect on my A/C performance.
Once the new valve gets here, I'll give it a shot I guess, but if it leaks too, I am sticking the Tee back in and calling it done.
Sheesh...
Seems to do the trick. Staying dry so far. The valve is only closed under MAX A/C setting, so as it's our cold season here, it has no effect on my A/C performance.
Once the new valve gets here, I'll give it a shot I guess, but if it leaks too, I am sticking the Tee back in and calling it done.
Sheesh...
#15
re-route PCV for more room
I usually get rid of the spring clamps and use a good quality SS worm drive clamp. Especially after reading how a guy lost an eye when one of those spring clamps went flying after it slipped loose.
The 2 coolant lines that go down to metal tubes are the supply and return lines for the rear heater core.
The plastic tee may be cracked causing your leak.
You can use regular 5/8" heater hose, brass connectors and a brass tee to rebuild the lines probably for a lot less that factory hoses if they are even available.
Now might be a good time to reroute some of the lines to gain better access to that side of the engine like this:
The 2 coolant lines that go down to metal tubes are the supply and return lines for the rear heater core.
The plastic tee may be cracked causing your leak.
You can use regular 5/8" heater hose, brass connectors and a brass tee to rebuild the lines probably for a lot less that factory hoses if they are even available.
Now might be a good time to reroute some of the lines to gain better access to that side of the engine like this:
Did you save any of the part numbers or specs for the stuff you did?