Hey, I have a '67 Ford F100 Custom. I have a T-98 4-speed w/ granny low in my 352ci. I am wondering some more information on a 435 tranny. My t-98 is too close ratio and the granny low makes it a 3-speed because I will never use g-low. My rear end is a Dana 60 5-bolt, with the tag saying 3.54 gears. I'm rebuilding my 352ci right now and I'm needing some info on a new tranny because my T-98 screams my engine going 65mph.

-Is a "435" the only other 4 speed option I have?

-Will a 435 fit my bellhousing?

-Does a 435 have a granny low or is it a true 4-speed?

-How much would a rebuilt 435 go for?

-Is there any specific place I should look for one? Or should I just call around the local transmission shops?

If anyone could help me out that would be great. Thanks!

 

T-98 is fully synchronized isn't it?? The np and t-18 are spur cut on 1st and reverse. You will still have a 1 to 1 4th gear ratio.

The Np 435- will have a longer reaching 3rd gear the the "T" tranny's but still gots the granny gear. The two are swapable just bolt one off bolt the other on no messing around. Price?? 100-500 bucks is what Ive seen'em for sale for. Your most likely to find one in a junk yard or a tranny shop, I don't think they're made new any more?

 

Rat Wagon, I'm not even for sure if mine is a T-98 now that I have it off today. On the top plate on the tranny it says T98-148C. While on the driver-side it says T18-1 W.G. DIV. So do you know what it is? Whatever it is... 1st isn't sync'd and I have to wait for the RPM's to go down to shift or else it'll grind. Reverse is where overdrive would be.

$100-500 isn't bad. There aren't any junkyards with tranny's around here (they're all gone). I guess I'll just have to buy from a tranny shop (if they can even find one).

So, why would they make 2 different 4-speeds if they both had granny low's? A longer reaching 3rd would be good... anything to give me more top end.

How big of a difference is there between the 435 and the T-98?

When I call shops what do I ask for? A "Ford 435 tranny" ?

 

The BW T-18 was used in earleir trucks with an overlapping period in the late 60s- early 70s where they used both. I don't think there is enough difference in the two to make a swap worthwhile. You might find slightly different ratios but it would be subtle. Both have the unsynchronized "granny" gear. I actually prefer th T-18 because it is easier to get in reverse when you have passengers in the middle. If you are having problems with grinding in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th then you have worn out or broken syncros. The 435 is a New Process.

 

willowbilly, how's it goin'? So, I'm guessing my tranny is a "T-18" instead of a "T-98" like we thought before..? I don't have any problems with griding the gears. It's hard to FIND 3rd and 4th because its worn. I took off the top tranny plate and there are a couple of gears that are worn and need to be replaced. I guess I am going to take it to a local tranny shop and have that done. I am also going to a get a new shifter, from that place that you or 460 crew gave me the number to. Thanks for the info on all of that.... what do you think?

 

I'm not sure why the top said T-98, that must be the model of the top, but it seems like a T-98 was the old 3 speed the Jeeps and Scouts used. Manual transmissions can be expensive to rebuild if they need any gears or shafts. You could try to find a used one and would probably get a better one than you have, but would still be getting something over 25 years old. I have almost 200,000 on my T-18 and it still works fine so you should be able to get a usable one. I haven't bought a tranny in years, but at todays junkyard prices you might expect to pay at least a couple hundred dollars. If you have a place to store it a parts truck might be the way to go. If you find a non-running one you shouldn't have to pay more than a hundred or two, you may even get a free one if you start looking for derilicts and pounding on doors. Good luck.

 

willowbilly, junkyards around here are all out of trannys. My tranny shifts fine. I called a local shop a while ago and they said that the dogs are worn out in it and they can probably fix it for around $150. Me bringing in the tranny to them they can probably fix it for cheaper. If it costs a lot to get gears replaced then maybe I'll just have them fix the dogs and then get that new shifter.

I've considered parts trucks but I have really no use because my '67 is in such good shape and complete at that.

willow, in your truck that has the T18.... does your engine scream going 65mph?? The gear tag on my rear end says 3.54. Thats great in-between gears for a lil' of both. So why is my truck so low geared for highway??? I'm not looking to go lots of top end but I drive highways that are 65mph so I just want to cruise on that but still have get up and go.... what's the deal with that?

 

My pickup with the T-18 has 3:73 gears and 31x10.50 tires. It will cruise quite happily at 75. Past 80 she is starting to hum. It is a 300-6 so it doesn't rev quite like a V8. All the transmissions are 1 to 1 in high gear, which neans the drive shaft is turning the same rpm as the engine. At this point maybe you should get a tachometer and see what kind of rpm you are turning. Only 2 things come to mind. Someone may have changed the gears and left the old tag on. I have heard engines kust roar like they are about to fly apart and it was a frozen up clutch fan. I had a suburban deisel a few years back that a previous owner had replced the fan clutch with an "eliminator". It roared so bad I couldn't hardly drive it. The 3:54 gears are a great combination and should be good highway gears with a normal 29-31 inch tall tires. $150 to fix your tranny sounds like a good deal.

 

willowbilly, well I guess the only way to know for sure is to take off the diff. cover and check for sure.

I'm trying to stray away from tach's because unless they are factory I think they look like hell and are out of place. At 65mph I'm at almost 3/4 throttle. It's so loud you have to yell to talk to the passenger.

I have a 300ci 5-speed 3:55 gears with 31x10.5's in my '94 and it is perfect for highway...

Anyway, I got a 4bbl manny and I stripped it and repainted it. Man does it look sweet. I traded my neighbor some labor and an antena for his '71 for it! He said he's got a Holley carb for it too, that he'll throw in. So, I'm really stoked about that. SO, I decided to pull my engine to put the manny on, fix the tranny, and put a new rear main seal in..... well I get it out and start taking off the tranny, bell-housing blah blah and I find that the starter is broken and there are some pieces flying around in there but for some reason it still worked fine. Then I take a look at my flywheel and its ground all to hell like my starter gear. So, I start know that I am going to spend a little money on this project..

Then I pull off a valve cover and find that my whole engine is just nasty with think crusty goopy crud! Everywhere, I got pics.... you won't believe this. So, my dad is shocked and said I should have put some mystery oil or some diesel in my oil and ran it before I drained the oil and most of that stuff would have been gone. Ok so, he says I gotta take it all apart to clean. So I go deeper and start taking rockers off, and then the heads and I find that my cylinders are scratched. Then I find pieces of the timing chain sprocket in the oil pump strainer! It had about 1/2" play in it! I keep going... then everything I take off my dad takes a look at and says "yeah, thats worn out and it needs turned" or "thats gonna cost ya". Then I get to the crank... it has to be turned... one of my camshaft bearings broke and got spun around in there so my cam is screwed! Everything on this engine is screwed! So, now I'm looking at about what... like $1000???
New cam, crank turned, cylinders bored, oversized pistons/rings/bearings (crank and cam), valves machined... who even knows about the lifters and rocker arms... water pump. Then after all that is done I have to get my tranny fixed. I already bought a complete engine gasket set ($96 from Checker.)

On parts like the pistons, cam, bearings, who would have the cheapest prices?

All, I know is when we get done with this motor there is gonna be some Chevy's left in the some of my 2-wheeler-squeeler.. thats the only good thing about me spending this kind of money!

What do you think about that??

 

Age old story, once you decide to dig in, where do you stop. Since you have other transportation it should be fun. I guess I wasn't totally clear on the tach thing, I was thinking of a tune up type tach being used temporarily. You could even do it in the driveway with the rear axle off the ground.
What you found inside your engine is pretty typical. I have seen those timing gears so bad you wonder how it even ran, with almost all the plastic teeth in the pan and pickup screen. Occasionally a chunk will find it's way into the oil pump
The cheapest place for parts is J.C. Whitney, but I have never bought engine parts there. I prefer the local parts store since they are close and easy to return wrong or unwanted items. You will be lucky to get by for $1000 with the machine shop costs. Did you say you had a 352? If you are into this engine this deep it would only cost a couple hundred more to swap the crank and make it a 390. Also don't forget to have hard valve seats put in. Your engine was designed for leaded fuel and if you grind out the residual lead when you do a valve job, your heads will be trash in about 10-20,000 miles. And with a fresh engine you will want to make sure your cooling system is all top notch. Definately a new pump and hoses, and I like to put in a new radiator too but you can take your old one to a radiator shop and have it checked out and cleaned. Your new engine will make a lot more heat than the old one did so you really need to do this or you might ruin your new engine. You also want to make sure you have a good carb that isn't dumping fuel or running rich. Thay extra gas can wash down the cylinders and keep the rings from seating properly.
And even if you have to go cheap on the pistons ect. you may want to pay a little extra for a good cam from someone like Comp-Cams who have a tech line to help you pick a good cam for your truck. Don't even think about reusing your old lifters. One other option would be to find a good used engine, which brings us back to the subject of a good parts truck. Keep us posted on your progress. Will continue to cheer you on from the sidelines. Have fun!!

 

willowbilly, thanks for all of your advise and help. I don't know about the 390 crank. That just seems more complicated and cost more to switch now, who knows. A friend of a friend works at a machine shop and I'm gonna show him the stuff and see what he says.

I already bought a fail-safe thermostat and I'll get new hoses. Thanks for reminding me to get my rad looked at. It has some really bad radiator rot right where the fan blade turns. But it doesn't leak... thats odd. A rad. shop can probably just replace that section of fins right?

I put some pics of the engine in my gallery under 67 f100. You gotta see 'em! Tell me what you think about my manny. ttyl

 

Like I said before, the timing chain condition is common on high mileage Fords.
I once asked a professional engine builder about the buildup of gunk encountered in old Ford engines and he told me it was almost always a combination of too low a thermostat and Penzoil. After that I asked everyone who came into my shop with a gunked up engine and almost all of them said they used Penzoil and most of them didn't change it regularly. I took the valve covers off a small block Ford once and you couldn't even see the rocker arms, it was just a big glob of gunk shaped like the inside of the valve cover. I also would disagree with your Dad on putting a "flush" to it and running it. You would just be pumping all that crap through your bearings ect. Flushing is ok if done regularly. I also took apart several high mileage engines that were clean as new inside and found most of them used Havoline. I told one guy he must have kept his oil changed regular on a 400 chev with 150,000 that was in to be replaced. It was in a van and he said it usually went 10,000 miles or so because it was the wife's school bus and she put so many miles on he couldn't keep track most of the time.
I think the pcv valve might have something to do with the gunk too. Like it never got changed.
Ask your machine shop about the 390 crank. It really won't be aby more hassle to build than going back original and you will notice a big difference in power.

 

willowbilly, when I bought the truck it had an old thing of STP stop-a-leak... or instant overhaul-in-a-can on the seat! Ouch. My dad already knew that the motor was going to have to be rebuilt... he wanted me to add mystery oil to flush that crap out so I wouldn't have such a mess to clean.

We use Castrol 10W40 on all of our stuff and it works great. My dad agrees with you about Penzoil and Quaker State being bad oils.

I will ask about the 390 crank. If I get a 390 crank will I have to get different pistons or cams (for the 390 crank) besides getting oversized because of the over bore? So, if I put a 390 crank in that motor will it be a real "390"? I'm confused on the whole thing.

What do you think the price of a 390 crank would be vs. getting mine turned down? Do you think that they give me anything for my 352 crank?

Did you look at those pictures?

 

You will need different pistons but you will be getting new ones anyway. The only real difference between a 352 and a 390 is the crank and .050 on the bore which is no problem since you can safely overbore these blocks more than that. And then you would have a real 390. Everything else is the same and you can't tell a 352 from a 390 from the outside if the original metal tag by the coil is gone. I would think they would allow you something for your crank if it can be reground but due to the popularity of this swap it may not be much. I haven't priced a reground 390 crank in quite a while but it used to only add 10%-15% to the cost of a rebuild to do the swap. I would think maybe $150 extra. I realize that every budget has a limit but if you can afford it you would never be sorry later on for having the extra cubes. Especially when smokin your buddys chevys.

 

willowbilly, ok now I'm set straight on the 390 thing. I'm definaly going to look into it now that I know I can just do the crank (which has to be done) and the pistons (which have to be done anyway too). So, when I get a cam would I need to buy a 390 cam? or a 352 cam? I'm looking to get a 1/4 cam. I'll talk to my dad about the 390 swap!