1987 factory splice job...wth... And conduit issues.

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Old 10-22-2016, 06:44 AM
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1987 factory splice job...wth... And conduit issues.

My '87 has many splices throughout its harness's and not one is actually protected anymore. Cloth tape doesn't last 30 years and still work.

In '87 it appears they just used cloth tape to cover them because its cheap and fast.

However, In '88 untill now they use some kind of epoxy and heatshrink which works way better and still holding strong.
Also in '87, they used non-weatherproof connectors from engine harness to chassis which also, Did not work nor last but again in '88 went to the right style plugs.

Later today I'm going to the JY that has an '88 which still has ALL its plugs and is also a diesel.

What I did with the harness plugs was cut them off and just solder the wires directly together and used heatshrink....That didn't shrink fully on the ends and to pull one harness means EVERYTHING has to come out which is now a pain. I already did it..... Which worked in my favor actually.

My question is, Should I get the right plugs and use them or just leave it as is and get better heatshrink and how do I actually insulate and protect these splices? I'm not going to try and cut apart 6-8 wires and resolder...No. I can already tell it won't work well.
But, When I heated the splices up with a small torch to flow solder into it, Nothing. Just got real hot but solder cannot flow onto or into the connection.

Lastly, How can I best run new conduit? Factory has done it multiple ways and seems fine but I've had some tell me to leave the wires open, Don't wrap the conduit or wires in tape, Etc... But Ford did both and the wires seem to be fine from what I can tell. Reason for asking is, I'm trying to make this truck...Basically able to swim to a certain point. Crazy as it sounds, There is a methodology to the insanity.
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:10 AM
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The only suggestion I have is to use liquid electrical tape on the splices, and for the heat shrink you can't beat the heat shrink with the glue in the middle. It's what they use for well pumps where the splice is under water in the well. You can go to a plumbing supply and get it, but it would be expensive. You would be best to get it online. Here's a place that carries it, you can look around and see if you can get a better price.

Here is one size they sell. In the search box put in "adhesive shrink tubing", they sell other sizes and they may have a assortment kit, I did not look hard enough.

SPC Technology Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing 4:1 Ratio - 5/32" x 4' | 24M2739 | SPC Technology

The local car part stores and Lowe's sell the liquid elec tape.
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:12 AM
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I tried the liquid tape but it doesn't stick well. I'll check out the adhesive tubing.
Think I'll go with this. Seems to work great for the price and wish I hadn't got that other crap now....

http://www.harborfreight.com/42-piec...ing-67598.html
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:44 AM
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whether using liquid tape, or heat shrink with adhesive, you need to clean the surface first or it will never work properly
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
whether using liquid tape, or heat shrink with adhesive, you need to clean the surface first or it will never work properly
Dawn, a toothbrush and clean water. I know. I hate working with dirty wires.
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
I tried the liquid tape but it doesn't stick well. I'll check out the adhesive tubing.
Think I'll go with this. Seems to work great for the price and wish I hadn't got that other crap now....

42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing
That stuff doesn't have the adhesive in it. I thought you were raising the bar and wanted a really water proof connection. The adhesive shrink tube will give that to you.

Also on the problems soldering, you will run into that with these old harnesses. If the copper is dull looking, even though it's still copper colored, the solder will not stick, no matter how much flux you use. If you get a piece of sandpaper and start to stroke the strands with it after you strip it back, it will usually stick then when you get the copper shiny again.
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:04 PM
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I thought that stuff had adhesive in it. And you're right, I am trying to raise the bar. I've seen to many of these trucks catch fire. And not from the brake switch either.
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:26 PM
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Honestly, I thought marine grade tubing would have the adhesive. Just got in from JY again and fighting with my engine harness/chassis harness....again. Damn crc crappy die-electric did not want to come off...
 
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Old 10-22-2016, 10:18 PM
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Still wondering what to do about the compression splices.....Liquid tape isn't really working for me like I thought....
 
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
Still wondering what to do about the compression splices.....Liquid tape isn't really working for me like I thought....
Cut the factory splice out, slip some adhesive shrinkwrap back in the right place, use conventional solder methods to re-construct the splice, and then slip the adhesive shrinkwrap over the new splice.

I think you will really like that adhesive shrinkwrap once you use it.
 
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:36 AM
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That's what I was thinking. It may be fine but I hate having copper exposed anywhere in a harness. And you're right frank, I think I will. I drove myself nuts trying to weatherproof the conventional stuff.
 
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:35 PM
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I love the adhesive type heatshrink. Really shows the connection is water tight. After looking at different trucks in boneyards, I seen Ford would wrap the wires then the conduit. So, I did the same. Hopefully it'll last another 30 years. Wires were in mint condition when I unwrapped them and cleaned them. They just used tape to hold the branches from the main harness. I did also but used liquid tape/spray on rubber and run conduit up to the connectors then filled with die-electric. But did not use rubber to cover all the conduit. Hard to explain. Haven't really started on the engine bay harness yet. Looking to start on it this weekend to next week. Only have 30 minutes of good daylight to work with after I get home from work now.
 
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