...Battery is very weak also but had a couple questions...

I started by reading up on issue and 9 times out of 10 people were saying the fuel pump driver module causes the issue...

So I ordered a Dorman for $60 on Amazon and plugged it in...I did not bolt it down...Just wanted to see if it would fix and nothing...

Now stuck on the starter...Top bolt is a huge nightmare.

Would a weak battery and bad starter cause theft light to flash or is my problem elsewhere?

 

you put the key in and turn it to ON, not start... the THEFT light should come on for 3 seconds, then go out when the key is recognized by the system.. IF the light does not go out, then you have a PATS problem somewhere ( bad key or other)... try your 2nd key............ If the starter does not crank, you can go no further. Charge the battery fully, check the cables for good ends and tight, and try again... How old is the battery. Probably NOT bad battery and bad starter.. one or the other... charge battery FIRST.

 

Well starter is fried based on how it was removed....Still waiting on top bolt (cousin is doing job and won't be back for a couple days)...

The fuel pump module was covered in dirt and looked like hell...

Will update when fixed....Starter should be in on Monday...If not fixed towing to shop

 

**Started every time...Let it sit untouched for 1 week and then it had no crank

 

The fuel pump module does not cause a NO CRANK situation, just a NO START.

If the motor does not crank, then the battery is dead, the starter is dead, the relay on the firewall is bad, or the transmission is not in PARK or the neutral start SWITCH is bad.... several things can cause NO CRANK... Once the battery is charged, turn the key to "start" and see if you hear the relay on the firewall pull in... do you have 12 volts on both sides of the relay ( from battery and too starter ?)... etc. If you don't hear anything pull in, maybe you don't have power from the neutral start switch... wiggle the shift lever and try again.

 

Check you're fuses.
Also pull out the 30amp circuit breaker fuse and put it back in.
I just went through a no crank no start. It was the last thing i checked after working on finding what could be wrong.

 

Well - Strange results...

Did the fuel pump module...no change.

Did the starter...And it started...However, noticed that I had to hit unlock on the key fab in order for it to start so thought that was problem.

...But, it did start every time for 2 days...NOW - this morning - no start again.

Never changed any fuses or anything - just changed starter. Back to square 1.

 

You need to be EXPLICIT about the symptom, ie, NO CRANK or CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START (FIRE) etc.

Simply saying it won't start leaves everything open. You must provide details and observations.

No Crank means the starter is not engaging and rotating the engine.

If it cranks but doesn't fire, it's going to be a fuel (including PATS), spark, or air problem.

 

Zero crank...Does nothing...No click...no crank...No nothing...(I did put no crank in the title of the thread)...

I think it has to do with the alarm/remote starter...

If you play around with the remote entry unlock button (I believe after market) and press it a million times...It will eventually crank and start...

 

some of those aftermarket alarms set under the dash by the steering column and tie into the wire harness... probably has a couple wires to the key switch that are cut and has a module spliced into it......... lay on the floor and look up under the dash.. cut and spliced wires are a no - no.. With no power to the key switch, you cant get a signal to pull in the relay for the starter.. bet that's it.

 

Ok SHO I'll post here my same type of issue hope it's ok here.
I always use door code and leave keys in truck. Recently a torrential downpour.
Driver side front door was unlocked, opened door and hit unlock for all 4 doors. Worked..
Put key in ignition and attempted to crank and got ONLY 3 THINGS:
1. In dash air bag light
2. Speedometer bounces between 10-25 m.p.h.
3. A light humming noise from driver side area under truck above fuel tank that continually makes noise unless I disconnect battery.

i have tried in solution
1. Charged battery.
2. Cleaned 2 driver side grounds behind kick panel, 1 passenger ground behind kick panel, 3 firewall ground on passenger side behind battery, cleaned both red and black battery cables/connectors/grounds from battery to starter.
3. Tried second key.
4. Used factory keypad
5. TRUCK WILL NOT SHIFT THRU GEARS WITH KEY IN ANY POSITION. The chrome lever/button on front of automatic gear shifter cant be pushed in
went under truck to manually wiggle gear shift selector and still nothing.
I replaced that part about 45k miles ago thinking the "wobbling and ticking" was selector not fully going into desired gear but now know the cam phasers are my problem but just saying it's weird truck won't shift with key in on position...
what's my best course of action to get this truck to start??

 

No matter how long you try to charge a bad battery its still not going to take charge . Batteries only last 3-4 years when it is hot outside heat kills batteries when cold comes all batteries slow down ,the weak ones die . You need reserve battery amps to crank , if it won't take charge its done . At best its going to leave you stranded soon .
Erratic bouncing display usually means weak battery . You must have good battery for the solenoid to unlock your shifter . Of course you have to have good clean connections and good grounds . Salt country corrosion on grounds very common ,behind both kick panels .
Good battery charger with high start amp capability can help see whats wrong but its not going to fix bad battery or faulty alternator . A bad alternator will let your battery get so bad its not recoverable Lead acid batteries do not survive after deep discharge .
Jump cables must be very good with good connectors . weak ones will overheat and fail to provide enough crank amps . If they start to get hot they are weak .
Your alternator needs to put out 14 + volts when running .
Running engine on short trips in winter with out changing oil every few months causes condensation in crankcase which causes bad sludge like cake frosting . You are going to have a lot of trouble from that . Get that oil out of there and use real good synthetic / winter weight for your zone . . Long trips help steam out water from condensation . Get that oil changed at a shop if its to cold for you to do it . Unless you want to spend 7k on a reman engine .

 

I change my oil personally.
The battery is good and charged. Not the problem to my issue.
I disconnected the transmission selector switch and the truck would still not shift. I'm under the impression this is my biggest problem.