I had started a build thread a few years ago but it was all over the place. Alot has changed in the truck since than and have started with a southern truck to build off of. Over the last 3-1/2 years ive been gathering parts and what not for it. Got a 1970 460 rebuilt. As well as a 1970 ford close ratio 4 speed big block trans.

The truck was imported from North Carolina this past summer, it was a 86. I had sent the frame away after I had stripped it to get blasted and painted. I had boughten all new front and rear suspension. Up front I had bought djm dream beams for 87-96 suspension, and all new radius arms. New coil springs and adjustable caster bushings.

The rear is a rebuilt 9 inch with a trac loc limited slip with 3:50 gears. New axle shafts and 1350 ujoint forged yokes. lowered 4 inches on beltech hangers and shackles

 

Is that a car transmission? If it is, will it fit ok (shifter height and position, hydraulic clutch)?

 

Will be running the serptentine setup from an 1988 f350 I had scrapped, will have a/c powersteering and alternator only. The engine is a 1970 460 with d0ve heads;

-.030 over 460 with hypertuectic -22c pistons
-comp xe262h camshaft
-3/8comp hardened pushrods
-crower 1.73 full roller rockers
-ported d0ve heads
-ported edelbrock performer rpm intake
-double roller timing chain
-will have a 750 quick fuel and a set of hooker 1-3/4 long tubes

 

Transmission is a big block toploader close ratio.. It was rebuilt with better synchros and forged output shaft with 1350 u joints. It will have a ram clutch for the 1-3/8x10 shaft and has a internally balanced ram lightweight flywheel. I had flipped the trans crossmember around and everything fit snug and nice. It also has a 38 gallon rear mount tank.

 

I have to buy a new hurst shifter and am making the linkage out of 3/8 heim joints. The shifter will be about 31 inches in front of the rear cab mount, and according to a parts truck that puts it a couple inches ahead of a bench seat. But im running full power 77 lincoln town car buckets! They are just sitting in an old cab to show that i should have room for a nice shifter in between. Ill be going with an internal throw out bearing and try to adapt a 83-86 clutch cylinder

 

Looks like you have been figuring on what I was worried about. I can't see it very good, but I guess you figured out the oil filter clearance thing also? Are you going to have to use a remote oil filter setup?

P.S. Did you know they make fenderwell headers for this application? At least they used to. Know a guy who had this setup in a Bronco with fenderwell headers.

 

Looks sharp! It gets my thinking about my build, some of it looks familiar haha. I'm looking forward to updates!

 

Oh Yea....Subscribed.

 

Well your build has made me want mine done so bad!! Haha.. The detail you put into yours is incredible. My goal is to paint it all black with no mouldings or trim. The headers will be hooker 6911's..1-3/4 long tubes with dual 3 inch exhaust with maybe a x pipe and two maybe borla muffles. The oil filter relocated inst anything fancy, just a trans adapt kit im using for the filter heads and I'll make my own hoses from gates at work

 

Looks like the guy that started this thread did away with the side gas tank. It's going to be required if you want to run dual exhaust the conventional way down each side of the driveshaft.

 

I got rid of the side tank. Im not sure what ill do for exhaust system yet. I know it will have electric dumps off the 3'' collector. And be 3'' true duals. I dont know if ill have room for a h/x pipe or not! The headers showed up today so I hope to mount them in the next couple days.

 

We have a pipe bender at my shop and did a true dual system on a '86 Bronco once. Its a tight fit but the pipes can be routed around the gas tank and exit on each side behind the wheels. I think we used 2 1/4" pipe though. I don't know if it would be possible with 3".

 

If you run duals the conventional way down either side of the driveshaft, I think you are going to have to re-locate your fuel lines to the outside of the frame, or create some sort of shield the full length of the fuel line. I have had this problem on several vehicles I have modified, even though the exhaust is 3 or 4 inches away from the fuel line, the heat from the exhaust radiates into the line. It does fine going down the road, but when you get it town it will stall out and not run till it cools off. Notice the factory ran the lines on the driver's side, the exhaust on the pass side.

 

has anyone run a xpipe or h pipe on these trucks? I don't think ill run into issues with fuel line. But ill keep that in mind for sure tho! I have to shorten the collectors on my long tubs because it doesn't give me much room to clear trans crossmember with duals

 

Not many people that own these trucks move the tank and run duals like that with a x-pipe. They run both pipes down the pass side next to each other if they can get away with it when it comes to inspection time.

I did run duals on a truck I had, the collectors come out low, low enough to be just below the frame if you squish the pipe a little bit with a hammer. So I elbowed out each collector and ran below the frame on each side, and then pointed another elbow outside the frame on each side up at a 45 degree angle. Then another 45 and then I ran the exhaust down each side on the outside of the frame, and then dumped out in front of each rear tire.