Alright. I'm cleaning up the nests of wiring the previous owners left me and so far I've pulled alot of useless and leftover wires from past adventures. Some I've pulled weren't connected on either side , , , some were jumped into other wires and just hung empty on the other end. The main question I have is "can I run my radio ignition wire to a place that would turn it on with the key still but not splice into the ignition plug itself? Say a spot on the fuse box that would get juice when the key was turned into the on position? " I have to replace the ignition plug anyway because the old one is kinda melty so if I have to I'll splice into it. I'd just rather not if I dont need to.

 

You can just test your fuses and find one that is hot with the key on or in accessory position. You can buy a clip that will attach to the fuse holder or if you use a flat solderless connector and squeeze it in between the fuse and the holder that works fine too and it's still protected by the fuse itself.

 

Since you have the dash open, there's a big yellow connector, over by the light switch, with three female plugs. Ignition hots.

 

The 3 little bullet plugs where only the middle one is used? Those are ignition hots? I can just tap
one of those then.

 

Yep. Don't run too many amps through it, cuz it's designed to throw relays and other low-wattage stuff. Radio is probably fine

Good luck finding .250 bullets to go in the connector. I used an .187 and mashed it oval until it fit snugly. Ghetto, I know...

 

I take the standard.187 male bullets and use a pocket screwdriver to spread them open a long the seam so they fit tight in those. Still ghetto, but I haven't had one come loose even bouncing mine off road.

 

Going off memory, I think I got some Napa brand ones that were the correct size when I did my harness.

 

Ok I wired in my new ignition plug wire for wire today and no start. The motor cranks but no fire. I think I've traced the problem. I got nothing at the ignition coil with the key in the on position. I should have something with the key in the on position right? Or am I wrong and the coil is dead unless the the key is in the crank position?

 

At run, you should have 6-9v at the coil.

At start, you should have 12v at the coil.

The 12v comes from the second (rear) small terminal on the starter solenoid

 

Yeah at run I got nothing at the coil with a test light. I disconnected everything already so I can't put a gauge on it until I hook it all back up. But I'm going to have to extend the factory wires because I had to cut them so far up because of the last guy that screwd with the ignition. Result of last guys handywork.

This was jumped in because the black and green in the old plug is gone.

No second black and green. At least tgats what i think is supposed to be there.