Hey y'all,
This ole' show truck that I bought, I'm discovering, is a really Frankenstein. I've pulled out two boxes of useless wiring and found shocking things. Some wire taps were done by cutting the insulation off, wrapping another wire around it and taping it. Sometimes they would throw a zip tie on to secure it.

My goal is to do what they started, but correctly. I have a new head unit with 2 channel and subwoofer RCA outputs. My idea is to replace the three factory speaker locations, each with 6.5" components. Then add a single 10" (maybe 2 depending on amp power) in the rear in place of the factory spare in a customer enclosure.

It's been 20 years since I was heavy into the stereo scene soo I'm looking for your expertise to make sure I'm doing it right. I have a case of OCD so I have a few visual boundaries whether they make sense to someone else our not; using all Pioneer equipment and amps from the same family.

I am thinking TS-A1606C for each of the three factory locations. A 10" sub but not as sure which one here, TS-W254R, TS-W261(S or D)4 single or dual coil, or shallow TS-SW250254. Power the front four speakers off the front rca outputs through a GM-A6604. The rear would also use a GM-A6604 with component speakers off the rear rca outputs through the first two channels and the sub through the sub rca and bridged on the 3/4 channels.

I'm not sure if the digital amps would be better as there is a 5 channel amp. But i would still need two amps to power everything. Or would a single 8" fit the amps better? I just wanna make sure I'm matching power and levels without over or under building/buying.

This will be a daily driver and summer road trip vehicle. Just want a clearer, stronger sound.
Thanks FTE

 

A few thoughts.

1. Unless you frequently have passengers in the 3rd row seat who demand quality sound system I'd skip the 3rd set of speakers. I've installed several systems in Excursions and it is a challenge to fill that huge box with good sound in all 3 locations. To many sources of sound all bouncing around just washes out the clarity of even high end components.

2. You mention 6.5" component speakers for each row. I'd skip that as well and spend the major amount of the budget on the best 6.5 you can afford for the front only. Some 5x7 in the rear doors are adequate for most rear seat passengers.

3. 60 watts per channel from the amps you listed is not likely going to adequately power a quality set of 6.5 components. Might work for some crappy 5x7 rear speakers though. First step is to pick your speakers and go off their power requirements.

4. If you want any measure of significant BASS a single 10" sub just doesn't cut it in the Ex because of the interior volume. I'd consider 2 10's or a 12" and power it with a dedicated 1000 watt amp.

 

Regarding your speaker choice, if you have heard them in person and like them then cool deal.

If not go to a stereo shop and actually listen to the speakers. I would not buy speakers based on reviews or other people opinions. Buy the ones that make the sound you like not the ones others rave about.

 

I'm gonna have to inspect my door speakers to see if they are stock. They sound great plugged into a 4 channel 450 watt Kenwood amp. I have a Sony Xplode 1x10 sitting in the way back using a Cerwin Vega 500 watt amp(have separate vol control under the steering wheel for that).

 

We have five kids and planning on keeping this until they are out of the house so all the seats will be full for a long time. Maybe I should consider some 3 or 4 way 6.5 for the middle and rear.

Always understood circle is more efficient and better quality than ovals. Plus 6.5s are a more plentiful option. OCD likes the consistency, and at $70 a pair not gonna kill the bank.

The components are listed at 60/350 watt, amp at 60/190 watt. That's what I am trying to figure out, making sure all the different puzzle pieces match.

Not looking for significant bass but to fill in where the components would cut off. No need to rattle the license plate frame. Maybe one 12" or two 10", need to consider the required air volume for the box too for fitment.

Problem I found in the past with listening at shops is they have them in oversize display boxes or are loose so air passes all around. I will probably be putting them in speaker baffles. Any reputable shops around the sacrmaneto area that would be worth checking out?

 

Did you dump the third row speakers too if your only running a 4 ch? I'm gonna be running the front two rows of the new head unit until I get this figured out. But with 22/50 watts, there's not much there past stock.

 

I tried to run a 2 ch amp to the back 4 speaker, but the front speakers couldn't keep up. So they swapped out the 2 ch for a 4 ch to get them all running, and by channel we mean L&R so we're not using its full capability. I could run 8 speakers with this amp.

Also, I started with the 1x10, the Cerwin Vega amp and a 2 ch J&L. I added a Kenwood 6903S, rear camera, and then swapped for the 4 ch Kenwood to make it all click.. I had Sweet Child in Time(Deep Purple) cranked today and it caused its own BSEG!

 

Digital amps are great especially because they are small and easyier to find a place to mount.

A single 5 channel amp can power all 7 of your speakers.

channel 1-2 powers the front row speakers
channel 3-4 powers the 2nd and 3rd row speakers.
Channel 5 powers the sub.

The 2nd and 3rd row ( 4 ohm ) speakers get wired in Parallel which will then be 2 ohms at the amp so you need to make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable on the 3-4 channel.


Not exactly sure what Charlie means by the front speaks couldn't keep up but if the rears are wired this way you can use the balance function to turn down the volume on rears.

 

Unfornutatly those pioneer amps are not 2 ohm stable.
But there are 2 ohm stable amps.

Page 3
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...nual071813.pdf

Example of a amp capable of 2 ohm on the 4 channels.
The Polk audio pa d500.1 is 2 ohm stable on the 4 channels and 1 ohm stable for the sub
http://www.polkaudio.com/Media/POLK/...PAD50005MN.pdf

Then again the Polk amp is 3x the money so you could just go with your multiple amp design assuming you have or want to devote the room to mount them.

 

I meant if I just used a 2 ch amp the balance compensated but at the expense of quality, or strange looking eq curves. The 4 channel is wired as you say and sounds like it is supposed to.
I forgot about the parallel thingy but I believe I get the old fart pass now...

 

If I can throw my two cents in here:

The front speaker locations are rather small and will require a little work to get a good set of 6" component speakers to fit and play well. Choices vary, but 60 watts is a minimum number unless you have no road noise and are a gasser truck.

The rear speakers are fine with coaxials and I am running the second and third rows in my truck. When the truck is empty and I am passionate about tonal and directional accuracy, I have switches to turn off amps and focus the audio forward. With all rows filled with bodies, audio bleed and interfering delay, etc..is mucho minimal, but will keep plenty of audio for each row.

I built a sub box in the place of the rear spare tire and put a JL Audio 13w6 with a 1000 watt digital amp (JL Audio as well) in it. I also have a 10" stealth box (with 600 watt amp) in the center console for lesser-bass needs and in case I remove the big sub for traveling with lots of bags.

My rule of thumb is double the required power for the speakers with CLEAN quality power. If the speaker manufacturer asks for 50 watts, then 75-100 will do. Speakers are not usually blown from over powering, but are ALWAYS blown from under powering.

Pirate is right on the idea of listening to what you think sounds good...in the end you are the only person listening to it continuously and other's opinions won't amount to a hill of beans if you are unhappy with the result.

Enjoy!

 

I've been thinking alot about your comments and my expectations in doing this. Without going into specific components I am planning on a 5 channel amp, upgrading the factory speakers, and adding a single sub. I'll evaluate after that if I need or want more.

I also thought about the purpose of this forum and how my specific conclusion may not help everyone coming here since we all likely have different goals. I was hoping this could turn into a "what to consider" thread and give people information to make the best decision for themselves, using the ideas presented here.

My first goal will be to add some pictures on how to access the radio and speakers for those that have never done it. This I hope will give encouragement to those who have never attempted such a project, and visual indicators of what's truly involved.

Please feel free to chime in with things to consider when replacing stereo components. Collectively we can educate and support each other.
Just a few loose ends to tie up.

 

If you carpet is dirty now is the time to pull since you will likely be laying cords under it anyhow. Take it out and pressure wash it.
I'll look for my thread on the subject and post a link if I find it.

But in general, remove carpet, use Super Clean or Zep Industrial Purple spray degreaser from the parts of hardware store ( it is sodium hydroxide or lye ) and take the carpet to the car wash or if you have a pressure washer. Stiff nylon brush and degreaser will remove almost any spots and your carpet will be good as new. If you have a couple of saw horses to drape the carpet over it will help drain the water and speed drying. Might take a day or 2.

Pic just for fun
The seat belts were particularly nasty and came out awesome.

 

I would only agree with that if u really know the speakers. Seen alot of speakers come out in the last few years rated higher than what they should which makes them sound like crap with alot of power or blow really fast( cough alpine cough) but have seen some nicer higher end speakers and comps take alot of power and sound like voices of angels lol. alot of amps that u buy at box stores dont even do rated unless higher voltage so at that point u have to get the bigger one to do double the power just to get what u want. I always search clamp power test to see what they really do. Brazilian amps are come up alot now and doing great. Big power with little power used and u dont have to run the ohms low to get it. And they are small as hell. Soundigital has nanos now that are 250w-400w and size of a crossover.

 

Camo- Thanks for throwing that idea out. It's one of those things that makes sense to do if your going to be running lines underneath. Makes the job that much easier. It's something i need to do because of stains from the previous owner and i was just going to try and spot clean it with the seats in. I'll throw some pictures up tomorrow evening of the seat hardware and what tools are required for those that would be so inclined to do it.

This brings up another concept of routing wires. Separating the power and signal wires if someone wants to comment on that.

Vince- Great reminder for people to try and match ratings but also realize it's not a hard rule. Meeting rms ratings should be a start then also consider the max of both the speaker and amp. Product quality also plays a role.