starter solenoid issue
#1
starter solenoid issue
Hey everyone. I'm not getting voltage to the small post on my starter solenoid. All the other posts are getting about 12.5 volts except for the power side small one. Not sure if I'm using the right terminology but please bear with me. Does this mean the solenoid is bad or is it a wiring issue? When I try to turn the engine over it just clicks like crazy but once it's attached to a jump box it starts right up. Any one have any ideas on how I can fix this? Thank in advance.
Ted
Ted
#2
The 2 small terminals on the front are marked S and I. In a stock wiring harness, the S terminal (start) receives 12V when the ignition switch is in the start position.
The I terminal (ignition) is only powered when the solenoid is engaged and provides a full 12 volts to the coil while the engine is starting. Once the key is returned to the ON position, the ignition power goes through the resistor wire and only provides 9 volts to the coil.
So, which posts did you take the measurements from and what were the circumstances (i.e key position)?
Also, this thread may belong in the forum specifically for electrical problems rather than the slick forum.
The I terminal (ignition) is only powered when the solenoid is engaged and provides a full 12 volts to the coil while the engine is starting. Once the key is returned to the ON position, the ignition power goes through the resistor wire and only provides 9 volts to the coil.
So, which posts did you take the measurements from and what were the circumstances (i.e key position)?
Also, this thread may belong in the forum specifically for electrical problems rather than the slick forum.
#3
#4
The S terminal is not supposed to get powered except when the key is all the way to START, not in the ON position. Otherwise your starter would stay engaged.
If the I terminal is hot (measured with the brown wire disconnected) any time other than when the starter is engaged, something is wrong and you should replace the solenoid.
If the I terminal is hot (measured with the brown wire disconnected) any time other than when the starter is engaged, something is wrong and you should replace the solenoid.
Last edited by 66v8baby; 10-13-2016 at 08:09 PM. Reason: clarification
#5
The 2 small terminals on the front are marked S and I. In a stock wiring harness, the S terminal (start) receives 12V when the ignition switch is in the start position.
The I terminal (ignition) is only powered when the solenoid is engaged and provides a full 12 volts to the coil while the engine is starting. Once the key is returned to the ON position, the ignition power goes through the resistor wire and only provides 9 volts to the coil.
So, which posts did you take the measurements from and what were the circumstances (i.e key position)?
Also, this thread may belong in the forum specifically for electrical problems rather than the slick forum.
The I terminal (ignition) is only powered when the solenoid is engaged and provides a full 12 volts to the coil while the engine is starting. Once the key is returned to the ON position, the ignition power goes through the resistor wire and only provides 9 volts to the coil.
So, which posts did you take the measurements from and what were the circumstances (i.e key position)?
Also, this thread may belong in the forum specifically for electrical problems rather than the slick forum.
what they said. sounds to me like you might have a fuse blown
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I think you might have something else going on there. I knew your battery was bad just from what you put in your first post. You mentioned clicking = bad or dead battery. When using a jump box and it starts, pretty much means a battery problem.
Here is my thought. You said you got a new battery two weeks ago -and it has to be replaced again...? What kills a battery that fast usually means there might be a constant drain on the battery or your Alt is not doing it's job. If you have a meter, remove a battery cable and hook the meter between the battery post and the cable end, and see if you have a power draw.
OR, have you had your Alt checked?
Here is my thought. You said you got a new battery two weeks ago -and it has to be replaced again...? What kills a battery that fast usually means there might be a constant drain on the battery or your Alt is not doing it's job. If you have a meter, remove a battery cable and hook the meter between the battery post and the cable end, and see if you have a power draw.
OR, have you had your Alt checked?