Please Help with engine stalling
#1
Please Help with engine stalling
I just barely made it home last night after a 5,000 mile road trip. The last couple of days I have been struggling through an engine stalling issue while driving. I have seen a few other threads, but they all seem to have some other component that is slightly different than my situation.
Background...
2004 Excursion 6.0L late 03 build, stock, 178,000 miles. HPOP replaced two years ago < 30,000 miles.
Pulling a 6,000 lb travel trailer
Northern Washington - At beginning of trip my A/C compressor locked up, got towed to a no name shop that helped me out when the local dealer was unwilling to help. Changed out the A/C compressor, belt, and belt tensioner. Got back on the road ok.
Southern Utah- 2 weeks/ roughly 3000 miles later, at the near end of our trip, I'm coming down a grade and the engine seems to cut out. The RPM's drop out, total loss of engine power, the coil light flashes on, the RPM's come back, tow/haul kicks off, and after taking my foot off the gas for a second or two I can then accelerate again. This happened about 10 times over the next 10 miles. I pulled off the freeway and the engine completely died while stopping at the bottom of the ramp. No check engine light. But I scanned a P2614 code - Camshaft Pos. Sensor. Cleared the code restarted the engine, got to a safer location, shut it down took a look, nothing visibly wrong, restarted ok but idled a little low.
I happened to be next to a diesel repair shop so I walked over to talk to them. After sitting for a couple of hours the tech started it up, idled fine for 10 minutes took it out for a test drive (no trailer) with no issues. He said you probably got some bad fuel (1/4 tank left), put new fuel in with additive, started up ran ok. We took it out for a test drive and within a couple of miles blew the turbo up. Waited around two days got the turbo replaced, started up ran fine.
I think the Turbo issue was coincidental, but glad I was already at a shop when it happened, so we took the stalling issue to be a blessing. Put 400 miles on with no issues.
Wendover NV - Pulling in to camp, and it stalled out twice after getting off of the freeway. No MIL, scanned P1000 and P2287-Injector Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent. Cleared the code went to bed. Woke up the next morning started the truck, ran ok for about 5 minutes then quit while idling.
Restarted and seemed ok. Went and filled up the fuel tank and got on the road. Drove Wendover to Reno, no issues, started home towards N. Cali from Reno.
Within 80 miles of home it started stalling out again. This time going uphill and down hill. Definitely seemed more frequent when going down hill or after taking my foot off accelerator and allowing RPM's to drop. Check engine light came on, and engine completely died. Pulled, P2614, P2617 codes. Let engine sit off for a few minutes, restarted and got another 20 miles before similar event. We made it home finally.
I was trying to monitor some parameters with my Android Torque pro, FICM sync was consistently 1.0, FMP - volts consistently 47.5 to 48.5.
This morning I went to take a look,
KOEO - FMP-V 48.5; ICP-volts 0.1, IPR 14.7% FICM-sync 0
At idle - FMP-V 48.0; ICP-v 1.1; IPR 30.2% FICM-sync 1.0
Cold 2000 rpm - FMP-V 47.5; ICP-v 1.4; IPR 38.3%, FICM sync 1.0
And of course it stalled, but surged back to running during the first 30 seconds of running.
I can't reset the check engine light today, it shows codes P2614 and P2617.
Did the tech doing the A/C compressor messing something working down that lower right front part of the engine? I can see some shielding coming off of the wiring bundles near where he would have been working.
What is my best approach for trouble shooting?
I already spent $4,000 dollars in repairs between the two shops, my budget is blown, I don't want to take it to another shop, if I can avoid it.
Background...
2004 Excursion 6.0L late 03 build, stock, 178,000 miles. HPOP replaced two years ago < 30,000 miles.
Pulling a 6,000 lb travel trailer
Northern Washington - At beginning of trip my A/C compressor locked up, got towed to a no name shop that helped me out when the local dealer was unwilling to help. Changed out the A/C compressor, belt, and belt tensioner. Got back on the road ok.
Southern Utah- 2 weeks/ roughly 3000 miles later, at the near end of our trip, I'm coming down a grade and the engine seems to cut out. The RPM's drop out, total loss of engine power, the coil light flashes on, the RPM's come back, tow/haul kicks off, and after taking my foot off the gas for a second or two I can then accelerate again. This happened about 10 times over the next 10 miles. I pulled off the freeway and the engine completely died while stopping at the bottom of the ramp. No check engine light. But I scanned a P2614 code - Camshaft Pos. Sensor. Cleared the code restarted the engine, got to a safer location, shut it down took a look, nothing visibly wrong, restarted ok but idled a little low.
I happened to be next to a diesel repair shop so I walked over to talk to them. After sitting for a couple of hours the tech started it up, idled fine for 10 minutes took it out for a test drive (no trailer) with no issues. He said you probably got some bad fuel (1/4 tank left), put new fuel in with additive, started up ran ok. We took it out for a test drive and within a couple of miles blew the turbo up. Waited around two days got the turbo replaced, started up ran fine.
I think the Turbo issue was coincidental, but glad I was already at a shop when it happened, so we took the stalling issue to be a blessing. Put 400 miles on with no issues.
Wendover NV - Pulling in to camp, and it stalled out twice after getting off of the freeway. No MIL, scanned P1000 and P2287-Injector Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent. Cleared the code went to bed. Woke up the next morning started the truck, ran ok for about 5 minutes then quit while idling.
Restarted and seemed ok. Went and filled up the fuel tank and got on the road. Drove Wendover to Reno, no issues, started home towards N. Cali from Reno.
Within 80 miles of home it started stalling out again. This time going uphill and down hill. Definitely seemed more frequent when going down hill or after taking my foot off accelerator and allowing RPM's to drop. Check engine light came on, and engine completely died. Pulled, P2614, P2617 codes. Let engine sit off for a few minutes, restarted and got another 20 miles before similar event. We made it home finally.
I was trying to monitor some parameters with my Android Torque pro, FICM sync was consistently 1.0, FMP - volts consistently 47.5 to 48.5.
This morning I went to take a look,
KOEO - FMP-V 48.5; ICP-volts 0.1, IPR 14.7% FICM-sync 0
At idle - FMP-V 48.0; ICP-v 1.1; IPR 30.2% FICM-sync 1.0
Cold 2000 rpm - FMP-V 47.5; ICP-v 1.4; IPR 38.3%, FICM sync 1.0
And of course it stalled, but surged back to running during the first 30 seconds of running.
I can't reset the check engine light today, it shows codes P2614 and P2617.
Did the tech doing the A/C compressor messing something working down that lower right front part of the engine? I can see some shielding coming off of the wiring bundles near where he would have been working.
What is my best approach for trouble shooting?
I already spent $4,000 dollars in repairs between the two shops, my budget is blown, I don't want to take it to another shop, if I can avoid it.
#3
#4
#6
Those two codes usually pop up from extended cranking, therefore not telling what the real problem is. Often that type of shutdown and restart is due to harness or connector issues. One recommendation would be to unplug the ICP sensor and see if the harness is oil soaked. You can also run it with that sensor unplugged as it will fallback to a default mode, then see if it will continuously run without a potential short there.
With an early truck there are a lot of potential harness points for shorting, some visible and some not. The FICM connectors can be checked relatively easy if the FICM has been removed or unplugged in the past. Otherwise most checks to the harness are done by moving it around in places after an external inspection, using a wood dowl or such so you don't get zapped by high voltage from the injector harness.
Sometimes the harness between the motor and PCM have been at issue, or the harnesses around the fuse/relay box
With an early truck there are a lot of potential harness points for shorting, some visible and some not. The FICM connectors can be checked relatively easy if the FICM has been removed or unplugged in the past. Otherwise most checks to the harness are done by moving it around in places after an external inspection, using a wood dowl or such so you don't get zapped by high voltage from the injector harness.
Sometimes the harness between the motor and PCM have been at issue, or the harnesses around the fuse/relay box
#7
2614/2617 cam and crank sensor intermittent. Means the sensors are not being seen, wiggle the harness near the sensors, they are low on the motor, right and left side of the harmonic balancer. You need both to be a positive sync ( 0 is a no, 1 is a yes) to get FICM sync, it also needs to be a 1. So if FICM sync is 0, then one of the cam/crank is probably a 0.... start there.
He likely could have hurt the wiring to the sensor, it's very near the A/C compressor.
He likely could have hurt the wiring to the sensor, it's very near the A/C compressor.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
2614/2617 cam and crank sensor intermittent. Means the sensors are not being seen, wiggle the harness near the sensors, they are low on the motor, right and left side of the harmonic balancer. You need both to be a positive sync ( 0 is a no, 1 is a yes) to get FICM sync, it also needs to be a 1. So if FICM sync is 0, then one of the cam/crank is probably a 0.... start there.
Took the plugs off, cleaned them up and I think he found the issue.
As BLADE has said in the past, sometimes just a wiggle or removal/reinstall is enough to make the problem go buh by.
#12
#13
Dealer Diagnosis
So I dropped it off at the local dealer to see what they said. Told me the engine harness needs replacing and mentioned the injector wiring, quoted me $2500 parts and labor.
How hard is it to change these harneses? Anyone got a recommendation on where to buy from? I think I'm going to try and replace as much as I can.
Thanks for all the input.
How hard is it to change these harneses? Anyone got a recommendation on where to buy from? I think I'm going to try and replace as much as I can.
Thanks for all the input.