I'm toying with the use of a Battery Tender Jr. on my 2016 6.7 to be stored through the winter in unheated garage. Vehicle will be started about once every month or two. Does anyone know the actual parasitic load the trucks electrical system places on the battery? In theory, assuming both batteries are fully charged to begin with, and a well ventilated cool wintertime indoor location for the wall wart, I would think the Jr version should do the job at .75 amps output. The next larger version produces 1.25 amps, and I'm doubting that is necessary for long term storage. I am told the 1. 25 amp version has temperature compensation, and the Jr. 0.75 amp version does not. But I'm not sure what the temp compensation actually gives you. Thoughts on this?

 

Be a lot of heat shrink to do the whole truck but since you suggested it I will look at doing that a let you know how it goes. Thanks.

 

Just reading "fitrv.com" discussion about diesel vs. gas. One post on RV use of diesels. Post states that seals can dry out on a diesel that sits a lot when only used as RV.

Can anyone elaborate on that? Have never seen this mentioned in this blog, and I've been reading it for years prior to signing up in August after I bought my truck.

 

The seals issue applied to a 38 foot diesel pusher with a Cummins C8.3. And applied to leaking oil, not coolant. Generic to all diesels? Thoughts?

 

I think the seals on that engine were probably on their way out the door from just being run hard, long and hot... Same would normally hold true for just about any engiine, however the recent engines are using new gasket and seal technology that are addressing those issues.