Before you re-bleed, clear any codes so that the ABS system is functioning and try to get it to engage again to pass the gas.

 

I found a gravel path where there is road construction and got up a little speed and slammed on the brakes to get it to skid. I did this a few times. The ABS light came on, like it's supposed to. Then, I went back and bled the brakes again. The pedal was solid after a pump. Something I noticed was that the fron t brake rotors had spots of rust build-up and a dark, blackish glaze, which was contributing to a slow to stop problem. I drove it around a bunch in areas where I would be unlikely to have to panic brake, though I did stop very hard when nobody else was present to clean off the front rotors. Now it stops pretty well. I guess I had air in the ABS unit. Forcing it to function cleared the air out. Thanks for all the time and input on my problem!

 

I think you may still have some air in the ABS, but don't bet the paycheck. My understanding is that there are lots of passages and multiple little pumps that diddle the pressure to each wheel individually(or not...), and getting them to be airless would require more cycles than would be normal. Again, don't bet the check. Some scan tools may be able to engage the ABS, forcing it to cycle the individual solenoids and ??? inside. Other than that, it would be brand specific, Bendix, Bosch, etc.
If you have a good pedal, you should be ok. The brakes should start to work with minimal motion of the pedal, such as 1/2" or so, and should be 'modulateable', gentle touch to full slam.
tom