Someone who don't know zip has been messing with this truck.

Like look at the choke cable is setup backwards. Plus should not even be on this carb.


If the carb choke opening diaphragm is bad it won't open the choke butterfly plate on top of carb, that has the 3 little hex head screw on top of carb that will suck air vacuum leak that can be the cause of not idling. The carb vacuum line goes to the dist. vacuum advance which maybe had also.

These trucks our pretty simple but being so old with many owners over the yrs they get hacked up like your steering column and the mickey mouse manual choke opener someone installed.

And the PCV hooked up wrong.

Plus these also had ign switch problems the caused hard starting.

These trucks old early engines did not have harden valve seats so when all the leaded gas was gone and by adding the unleaded additive help extend the useful live of the engine valves but not a 100% so the valve seats slowly burned away to the point of making these non drivable due to backfiring back out the carb.

So the very first thing you should do is a compression test as, I pretty should you'll find out that it is in need of the exh. valves seats in need of replacement.

Or worse a full engine rebuild.

Most of the time these trucks our like a can of worms!
Orich

 

I'll take a photo of my engine compartment for you later today. I have a '72 1-ton as well, Your carb is a slightly older and plainer version of mine, but is the Motocraft 2100. They are dirt simple to rebuild, and there are several you tube video's of them for the "first time scary parts".
You are missing a pair of carb brackets, which hold the heater hose to the carb, which helps during cold starts. The pcv valve on the DS valve cover should go to the air cleaner, and the PS valve cover should have a hose routed to the PCV at the back of the engine bay. I think I have the wiring diagrams for this truck as well, I got them from this site.
1972 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams - FORDification.com
its definitely something you'll want to save in several files. The turn signal indicator add on looks like something out of a larger series truck. Your column also seems odd

 

Id much appreciate any pics you could add of yours.

Got it trailered to where I can work on it.. against my better judgement but to save time, I ended up driving it onto the trailer. Started right up, just wouldnt idle very well. Very encouraging though, to say the least.

 

Ended up replacing the carb with a reman'd. Planning on rebuilding the old one. I am missing a few pieces off of it so that will need some parts too.

Started ripping apart the rear end to do bearings and seals.

Does anyone know the PN for the axle nut and lock washer(and gasket i guess)? I got the shop manual but i have yet to figure out how to find the part numbers for stuff. May not be looking in the correct section for that...





So another q, is that axle nut 2 and 9/16" Inner Dia?
Correct Special Tool for that t70t-4252-D or t70t-4252-E? Most things Im finding only list t70t-4252-D as ref and I dont know the difference.

In the pics are the Passenger Rear. I am unsure on what to do about the wear on the axle tube, though I do have a few ideas of what I have done with other wheel bearing situations.

Overall the drums arn't as bad as I expected. Ill have to give em a good look again, though there is a good bit of wear there isn't any odd grooves. I Do plan on cleaning up the break hardware a good bit and change the wheel cylinders, but I dont think I will replace anything that isnt broken or has to much wear.




Inside seal of hub. Planning on replacing bearings and seal.

 

I would replace all the brake hardware as springs all get weak over how many yrs have they been doing the job possibly 40+yrs.

I almost if you remove the little red short springs with side cutters you can't reinstall new ones the same way, as they'll be much stronger to re-connect on the anchor hooks.

You can find the P/n on the hub seal & the bearing race & cone. Most auto parts can order everything now days.


Have the drums turned and both rears should be turned out to the same ID if not then it the vehicle could pull to one side while heavy braking. Same with front drums but don't have to be the same ID but only match left to right sides.

Aw I see a drum missing a chunk out of it may or may not have any balancing issues.

To check the wheel cylinder leakage roll back the dust boots look for wet ness of a builtup of crap as piston could be frozen.
Orich

 

2X Orich's comments about that broken/chipped brake drum. That will not only be out of balance, but the drum may break under a load, or heavy braking. Wheel cyls are on sale right now at RockAuto. Also invest in a set of speed bleeders. They make very easy if working by yourself. On the 2 9/16 tool. I bought one from O'Reillys (Axle nut socket), sorry, I can't recall the cost($6-8?).

 

Yes 2 9/16". As of 1969 ser #F30,001 and newer F250/350 and E250/300/350. But the F350's started it earlier than this.

 

Is that the size for the tool or the nut?

I cant find the ID (or OD) of the spindle nut listed anywhere and parts stores are having issues too.

Does anyone have a PN or spindle ID/OD and thread of the spindle nut? That would be more than helpful.

-Edit so after much digging this is what I found:
spindle nut
Ford? # QU20018
Napa Part #: BK 6351102
Dorman Part #: 81035

Spindle Nut Lock Washer.
Ford? # QU20017

 

Spindle nut yes 2.9/16"
Be sure to pack those inner bearing & grease both sides of the lock washer!

And lube the seal lip facing the spindle.

If you don't grease up both sides then when torqueing the spindle nut to 50lbs it can an mostly will twist the washer enough to bend off the lock washer tooth that fits into key way slot.

ya may know all this stuff already, if not then just a heads up.

Orich

 

2 9/16" would be the tool size and the O.D. of the nut across 2 flats. When finding a socket or wrench the I.D. of the nut doesn't matter.

 

The socket has rounded shoulders just like the spindle nuts.
Orich

 

Is there any trick to removing the anchor pin/parking brake bolt? Im having a little trouble with it. Mine is a pin with a lock nut on the backside and cant really lock the pin down to break the nut loose so far.. may have to break out some better vice grips here

 

I think the e-brake arm has a 7/16 nut on the back side. Put some wd-40 on it and slowly work it off & on until it's off. Vice grips Holy Smoke why not use the correct tools unless someone has messed it up already.
Orich

 

If the head is not hex anymore on the bolt and you can't hold on to it, you might have to weld a nut to the head of the bolt.

 

Well thats part of the issue. Its not a bolt head on the outside, It started rounded, now its sort of rounded... I think ill replace with a bolt though.