1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Here's my official Np435 to ZF-5 swap thread,... IT's DONE!

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Old 10-06-2016, 06:36 PM
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Here's my official Np435 to ZF-5 swap thread,... IT's DONE!

So I've started my swap out, I would like to get this done in a few days....

Anyway, My 86' is a 4x4, with Granny 4-sp and hydraulic clutch and NP- 208? T-case.
Both the tranny and T-case leak pretty good, this is part of the reason of the Swap out.
I bought a new Master cylinder, hyd. line and internal slave cylinder.
and for the data gatherers, (Gary,) I have been doing a mileage tests this whole driving season and will compare the 4sp to the 5sp.

Interesting observation while doing the once-over of the job in front of me,
The tranny crossmember on the NP set-up, is not bolted to the frame......only the gussets are bolted to the upper frame rail and to the crossmember. the crossmember itself is a free floater, (and only 1 hole in the frame in the crossmember area)....

I did some measurements, the bell housing on the ZF is 17 inches tall, the tranny jack plus the tranny 28 inches tall in total.
Here's what's going in...


Now the frame rails only measure 16" to the floor, Sooooo the truck must go up, Way up So with extreme jacking in all 4 corners, It might just be my Fire Dept, EMT training, but I just don't like rolling around under it with just four jack stands. so I blocked all 4 tires too. The weight of the truck is on the jack stands, but if it decides to shift at the most in-opportune time it can't "Fall" far.


Not to rub it in anyone's face but a very rust free cab with shiny 30 year old paint under the carpet.




Tomorrow's plan is to remove the cross member and T-case and NP tranny.

My concerns are:
The rear drive shaft, forward U-Joint is only 1/4" from the gas tank plastic shield...And IF the NP has a 10 inch clutch and the ZF-5 is an 11 inch clutch, I should be able to use the same starter correct?
But a buddy of mine mentioned a money saving move,....IF the original 10 inch clutch has plenty of meat on it, leave it alone, and install the ZF on it. But if it is true the ZF needs a bigger clutch, the 10 inch pressure-plate will not mate to the starter in the ZF bell housing....
 
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:23 PM
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Single bolt on the lower crossmember rings a bell, but it should be bolted to the lower part of the frame.
 
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:54 PM
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Looks as though you are well on your way with a plan and a safe one !....BTW...cool to have a fellow FF/EMT Bullnose owner around !
 
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:24 PM
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Thanks Don
National Certs in
Fire I
Fire II
Fire Instructor I
ICS 100,200,300, 700
EMT
Just Promoted to Lieutenant.

With that, I really don't need the to give the rest of the crew (and the chief) the pleasure to come to my house with a truck sitting on me......
 
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Old 10-07-2016, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by reamer
Thanks Don
National Certs in
Fire I
Fire II
Fire Instructor I
ICS 00,200,300, 700
EMT
Just Promoted to Lieutenant.

With that, I really don't need the to give the rest of the crew (and the chief) the pleasure to come to my house with a truck sitting on me......
Congrats on the Lt. promotion ! I'm with you on the certs. My add'l's are
Haz-Mat, conf./trench space,water,ice and EMT-CCFP. And very true....having the "house" visiting your's for such an occasion would be the last thing you want.
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:46 AM
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Well today is Saturday, Got the tranny out and clutch off.
Getting a NAPA 11"clutch/pressure plate tomorrow.
Do I need to take this off and have it re-surfaced?

 
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by reamer
Well today is Saturday, Got the tranny out and clutch off.
Getting a NAPA 11"clutch/pressure plate tomorrow.
Do I need to take this off and have it re-surfaced?

Always advisable to resurface the fly wheel. But yours looks pretty good. As long as there are no cracks, chatter marks, discoloration you should be good.

Yours does appear to have some chatter marks on it so if ti was me and cost was not a huge consideration I would resurface if it.It will also aid in the clutch seating.
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:27 PM
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New Concerns...
I lined up the Bell/NP and T case next to the ZF and T case and contrary to belief The ZF set-up is @3 inches longer, not 1 inch.

Concerns are since this is a short bed, Will the new rear shaft angle be excessive and bind?
and it was a very tight squeeze with the stock set-up and the gas tank almost hitting the front universal of the rear shaft.....

By the way, what do I use to seal the tranny plate to the cab floor?
Thanks
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:37 PM
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You are using a different transfer case? Is the output the same? Where is the length difference? At the back of each transmission or the rear of the transfer case? If the transfer case is the cause, you can use your old transfer case on the zf.
 
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:02 PM
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I am using my old T-case, The ZF had the same model T-case, but the plugs and speedo attachment was different, So I am using my old T-case.
The bell housing on the old NP is far "shorter" than the one cast on the ZF, and the ZF itself is longer. not sure right now on the adapter.....
 
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:20 AM
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For the trans plate, I plan on using marine grade butyl mastic as it stays pliable but seals.
 
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by reamer
New Concerns...
I lined up the Bell/NP and T case next to the ZF and T case and contrary to belief The ZF set-up is @3 inches longer, not 1 inch.

Concerns are since this is a short bed, Will the new rear shaft angle be excessive and bind?
and it was a very tight squeeze with the stock set-up and the gas tank almost hitting the front universal of the rear shaft.....

By the way, what do I use to seal the tranny plate to the cab floor?
Thanks

If the drive shaft angle is excessive you can install leaf spring pinion angle shims.
I think they are available from Summit.


Correction they are available from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...on-angle-shims
 
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:49 PM
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I'm concerned with the angle of the U-joint by the T-case. but you are right, shimming the pumpkin is the easy one..
 
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by reamer
I'm concerned with the angle of the U-joint by the T-case. but you are right, shimming the pumpkin is the easy one..
Not easy on our Fords but can also drop the trany/transfer case too.
Dave - - - -
 
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by reamer
I'm concerned with the angle of the U-joint by the T-case. but you are right, shimming the pumpkin is the easy one..
Well you are going to need a new drive shaft any way so you could eliminate the Tail shaft slip yoke this will shorten the transfer case tail shaft by about 6" IRCC.

I think this can this can be done with Dodge Or Jeep parts on the NP 208 as they did not use a slip yoke on the transfer case tail shaft and had a much shorter tail shaft. See below.
This will also make for a stronger drive line.

The drive shaft will then will then need to have the slip yoke on it and with the double carden joint you will more than be good. You may not even need the double carden after losing that much drive shaft length.

I would suggest inquiring about this on one of the many Off road forums. Those guys will know all the in's an out about this.
 
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