1990 F-250 Dash/Tail Light Only in Certain Switch Positions
#1
1990 F-250 Dash/Tail Light Only in Certain Switch Positions
Good evening!
I've always wanted to buy a proper Ford truck, and finally I've made it.
Anyhow, the dash and tail lights on my truck suddenly went out 2 weeks ago. I've checked all fuses and wires, all looks good, and just 10 minutes ago I also replaced the switch - but, as with the old switch, the light only turns on when I've pulled it between the first and second position (between park light and driving light). So I get my dash and tail light, but the driving light doesn't turn on until I fully extend the switch.
Have you ever heard about this before?
-Gabriel
I've always wanted to buy a proper Ford truck, and finally I've made it.
Anyhow, the dash and tail lights on my truck suddenly went out 2 weeks ago. I've checked all fuses and wires, all looks good, and just 10 minutes ago I also replaced the switch - but, as with the old switch, the light only turns on when I've pulled it between the first and second position (between park light and driving light). So I get my dash and tail light, but the driving light doesn't turn on until I fully extend the switch.
Have you ever heard about this before?
-Gabriel
#2
Yes. You are missing power to the running light circuit, which also feeds the dash lights. The headlight switch has a couple of power feeds. One feed is for the headlights only. The other feed is for the running lights/tailights, and also for the dashlights indirectly. What you are doing is putting the switch in a mid position which is crossing up the contacts inside the switch, and the taillights are using the headlight power to light up.
First check the fuse. There is a separate fuse for the taillights/running lights. If the fuse is good and power is passing through it, then pull the headlight switch out again. Check for power on the tan/white wire. If the fuse is good, you should have power at all times on the tan/white. If you don't have power, follow it back up in the harness, it may be melted. If you do have power look at the plug in where the tan/white goes. See if it has been hot and is melted looking or burnt. If it is, you can go to the store and buy a new plug with pigtails that you can splice into the harness. This is a common problem, the reason they sell this plug for the headlight switch.
First check the fuse. There is a separate fuse for the taillights/running lights. If the fuse is good and power is passing through it, then pull the headlight switch out again. Check for power on the tan/white wire. If the fuse is good, you should have power at all times on the tan/white. If you don't have power, follow it back up in the harness, it may be melted. If you do have power look at the plug in where the tan/white goes. See if it has been hot and is melted looking or burnt. If it is, you can go to the store and buy a new plug with pigtails that you can splice into the harness. This is a common problem, the reason they sell this plug for the headlight switch.
#3
Thank you very much! I honestly tried to search for such an answer for quite some time, but I never found a thread stating a solution.
Again, thank you!)
By the way, you state there is a plug being used, but mine is connected with individual cable shoes. Maybe something the previous owner did...
Again, thank you!)
By the way, you state there is a plug being used, but mine is connected with individual cable shoes. Maybe something the previous owner did...
#4
Thank you very much! I honestly tried to search for such an answer for quite some time, but I never found a thread stating a solution.
Again, thank you!)
By the way, you state there is a plug being used, but mine is connected with individual cable shoes. Maybe something the previous owner did...
Again, thank you!)
By the way, you state there is a plug being used, but mine is connected with individual cable shoes. Maybe something the previous owner did...
#5
Precisely. You see, in Norway the amount of parts are extremely scarce, and there's a total of 30 of these trucks still on the road. 2 in my county, so information is not widespread, and Google is difficult to work with since it targets different things because of the location of the search.
#6
Precisely. You see, in Norway the amount of parts are extremely scarce, and there's a total of 30 of these trucks still on the road. 2 in my county, so information is not widespread, and Google is difficult to work with since it targets different things because of the location of the search.
#7
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#8
Instead of splicing, I try to pull the wire out of the old connector housing and push it into the new one. Every splice is a potential for shorts, bad connections, corrosion, and high resistance. Also, Look into doing the relay mod.
I hope Ford fired their electrical engineer for all the problems plagued by these trucks.
I hope Ford fired their electrical engineer for all the problems plagued by these trucks.
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