OK, So, I've just acquired the AA in the other post and it's needs tires. I can move the truck with the ones on there but I wouldn't got down the road on them. These wheels have the split ring on them. So, is this a job that can be safely accomplished at home or should I take them to a truck place who has experience with those split rings? IF it's ok to do at home, how does one go about it? I'm still waiting for my service manuals...

Thanks!!

 

Disclaimer: All of the following is anecdotal. I have not serviced lock ring wheels myself.

There are only two methods I have head of that I would trust for safe airing up of the tires after changing them: inside a cage with a long hose to the tire, and under forklift forks with a heavy load on them and a long hose to the tire.

Condition is key on that type of wheel. make sure everything is in good shape and is the correct parts. I have heard of lock rings being swapped onto wheels that don't match.

 

I'm no expert either but I wouldn't just plug the air hose on and step back, even if it is caged. A small amount of air, like a couple psi, tap tap tap all around the rim, couple more pounds and repeat. Just to make sure the ring seats in the groove good before you crank the air to it.

 

IMHO, find a shop with an old guy who knows his stuff, and a cage. If you have wheels with the solid/unbroken/continuous rings, called a Firestone RH design, you risk ruining a ring trying to remove it. Too much force can bend the ring, then you're screwed. If you have wheels with a visible split in the outer ring that is a Goodyear style. Probably a DT given the era. They are easier to get apart, but too much enthusiasm bending a ring is equally bad. And as said, rings must be kept as a set with the rim. Mix-matching is dangerous.

A shop will have a tire bead spreader allowing the tube and flap to be cleanly installed without kinks. You might struggle. A shop shouldn't get too deeply into your pocket, and you'll have piece of mind. Stu

 

I watched the guy in the tire shop in 1972 when I had them changed on my first AA. Then I watched again years later on my 38 tonner. Later I had 4 kids and was broke and very carefully did my own and I still do. Definately take these to a tire shop, but watch if you can. For whatever sick and demented reason, I actually enjoy the challenge of peeling off the old tire, cleaning and painting rims and re-installing a new tire. BUT... I do have a forklift and about 8 different tools for prying etc. Oh and 40 years of doing it. None of this is to be taken lightly as it is serious business. What are you putting back on? Inquiring truck tire freaks like to know.....

 

Yeah, I agree with Gary. A shop that will let you watch is gonna be a small old place that doesn't have insurance disclaimer signs written by lawyers hanging on the doors. Seeing it done will help you appreciate what the techs know and do. I've done my own too but don't have Gary's love of sweat.

Building on Gary's point about cleaning up the rims, I generally do them in phases. Remove the tires, blast and paint, then take back to mount new tires. Stu

 

Rims and rings have to be in good shape when they go back together but not that big of a deal. If you were closer I would say bring em by, those are much easier to deal with than the solid rings I have on my 41.

If the tires are old and hard you will need a sawzall to help get the tires off. I am sure if you ask around you will find someone willing to deal with them, especially if you live in a rural farm area. Good luck.

 

Oh, sure, your other thread shows your left front wheel. Looks to be a Goodyear LB. If they all match they are easier to deal with than the solid RHs. Stu

Edit - I should add, the Budd reference below cites rim width using the measurement standards in place at that time. The National Wheel and Rim Association (NWRA) standard then was to measure width across the outer rim lips. In the 1940s the criteria changed to a measurement across the inner rim base. Thus, the cited 5.00" width became a 3.75" width, a 6.00" became a 4.33", and a 7.00" became a 5.00". Yours to my eye look to be 3.75. Stu

 

I came across 4 nice spits that I want to keep for my 41 but they are on a 52 that I need to get sold and it has to roll in order to do that so I will keep looking but until then mine are working fine with the new Firestone's. Not looking forward to doing those again some day down the road.

 

And if you DO live in a rural farm area your neighbor my be more likely to have a chainsaw than a sawzall. That's good because a chainsaw does in less than half the time. A knotted cup brush on an angle grinder cleans the wheels up really well.

 

Hey thanks everyone! I do live in a rural farm area but would probably take me a while to find someone who knew about these. I'll probably run them over to the "commercial" tire shop. Still looking at tires but leaning towards ones I found on Coker, 600-20's (I think I have that right). The wheels are presumably a matched set on the truck. All are in excellent shape and need a cleaning and tires, tubes etc

 

Quoting myself here, but just realized I am sitting a half mile from Wilder Bros Tire mart in N. Scituate Ma where I watched the guy change my tires when I was 19. I am visiting my sister in Massachusetts. I lived here from age 14 to age 21. Funny on the East coast stuff doesn't change so much. Lots of small family owned businesses still exist. And not a strip mall in sight.

 

If you look at the concave side flats of the center discs you should find the Budd number of each. Most easily found on the outer duals with wheels still on the truck. The numbers found should match one or another of those cited in my above Budd reference. If not please post what you find and I'll look them up. On later wheels Budd moved their numbers to the concave side rim lips, but doubt you'll find yours there. Assuming the 3.75"/(5") guess is right, the 6.00" tire is a good fit. Stu